N. Johnson wrote:
The “control locked” light was on… you had suggested to someone else to hold the “End of Cycle Signal” button down for 3 seconds… and darned if that didn’t turn the light off. Thank you so much!!!
There ya go, buddy-row! On some models, you may have to hold it for 5 seconds but same happy result. 8)
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
The Samurai School of Appliantology
http://appliantology.org
– Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Dmitry wrote:
Hello! I we got question about Whirlpool front load washer. We have this unit for over few years and problem that recently pops up is water slowly gets in to washer and feels it up when unit is OFF. What do I have to fix it? Thanks for your support.Dmitry
This is a classic case of bad water inlet valve. The water inlet valve is the thing inside the washer, in back, that has the water fill hoses attached to it. It’s what opens and closes to let water into the drum.
What’s happened to yours is that the valve has gotten damaged by what we professional appliantologists call, “gookus,” which is a technical term for anything that ain’t supposed to be somewhere. Probably sediment or pipe scale made it’s way deep into the inner guts of the valve so it can’t make a tight seal anymore.
The fix is to replace the water inlet valve. We have ’em for every kind of washing machine out there, including Whirlpool, Kenmore, Frigidaire, Electrolux, GE, LG, Bosch, Asko… you get the idea. Come have a look and see for yourself– click here.
For example, in the case of the original Whirlpool Duet washers, model number GHW91* and GHW92*, the water inlet valve looks like this:
(Click image to purchase)
In the case of the Whirlpool Duet Sport washer with model numbers like WFW8*, the water inlet valve looks like this:
(Click image to purchase)
You can also easily find the valve for your specific washer by just plugging your model number into the parts search box in the sidebar, the one with the purdy green button.
Replacing the valve is piece of pie, tovarish! On most front loaders, just remove the top panel (three screws in back) and the valve is right there. Shut off the water supply at the wall and unscrew the fill hoses from the valve. Watch this cool video for more:
If you have questions or need more repair help, come start a new topic in the Laundry Forum at the Samurai School of Appliantology and we’ll help you whup up on it.
Spraznikum!
KY wrote:
I HAVE A WHIRLPOOL WASHER MODEL LSR8133HQ0 I HAVE PART THAT CAME OFF IT DOESNT LOOK BROKE; IT HAS A SPRING CONNECTED TO A GRAY FLAP. I FOUND THAT THIS PARTS KEEPS THE WASHER FROM SPINNING OUT. WHEN YOU LET DOWN THE WASHER TOP THIS PART MAKES THE WASHER WORK IT IS FOUND UP UNDER THE THE TOP RIM OF THE WASHER. WHAT DO I DO? CAN I HAVE THIS PART REPLACED OR FIXED?
You have had a Close Encounter of the lid switch kind. The piece you found is part of the lid switch. On this washer, if the lid switch breaks, like yours did, the washer will not spin. The solution is to replace the lid switch:
Click image for larger view and to purchase.
This video shows you how to install the new switch and get your washer running right again…
If you need more help, come start a new topic in the Laundry Forum in the Samurai School of Appliantology.
Shannon wrote:
My dryer stopped working. Will not turn on. I think it over heated and need to know which thermostat to replace on it. It’s a GE DHDSR46EG2WW
Start at the thermal fuse mounted on the heater pan under the hood. If it tests open with an ohm meter, you need to replace it. Buy the replacement here: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/High-Limit-Thermostat/276438?modelNumber=DHDSR46EG2WW
If you need help getting inside your dryer, testing the thermal fuse and installing the new one, go to the Samurai School of Appliantology at www.appliantology.org and start a new topic in the Laundry Forum. We’re here to help!
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
The Samurai School of Appliantology
http://appliantology.org
– Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Jesse wrote:
my nautilus dishwasher is clogged , what should i do, i tried putting declogger but it wotn work .help!
OMG! Are you saying you poured Drain-o in your dishwasher? If so, you likely ruined the seals and pump. Dishwashers don’t “drain,” they pump out. That means they have a pump that pumps the water out. The pump in your dishwasher may be bad or have something stuck in the impeller. Or there may be something clogged in the drain hose.
You’ll need to put on protective gloves and remove all that now-caustic, poisonous water from the basin using a sponge and bucket. Then you can go about trying to find the problem. We can help you do this in the Samurai School of Appliantology at www.Appliantology.org — read the green box up top there and start a new topic in the Kitchen Forum.
And if you call a repairman, be sure to tell him that you poured a drain unclogging chemical in there so he can protect himself!
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
The Samurai School of Appliantology
http://appliantology.org
– Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Appliantology Newsletter, May 2011: The Case of the Leaking Refrigerator
Greetings and Permutations to all my fellow Appliantologists!
This month, the Samurai brings you glad tidings for a refrigerator problem that lots of folks are having this time of year: water leaking out of the refrigerator.
The good news is that this is easy to repair and usually requires no parts.
The bad news is… well, there is no bad news!
The cause is what we professional Appliantologists call a “plugged condensate drain.”
I hear you; at this moment you’re wondering to yourself, “What, o besotted Samurai, is a condensate drain and in what unspeakable manner does it become plugged?”
Good question and Im’ma splain it to you.
Y’see, Hoss, there’s this coil inside your freezer compartment that gets real cold and that’s where all your cold air for the entire box is made. This coil normally runs at a temperature of about -15F. That’s enough to give anyone a pointy chest! The fan inside the freezer pulls air across those chilly coils and cools it down to about 0F.
Well, it don’t take a nucular fizzisist, like yours kinda truly, to know that at that temperature, water vapor will freeze into white fuzzy ice on that thang faster than fried on rice in a hot wok. After a short while, that frost can build up so thick that the air is no longer contacting the coils but is flowing over the fuzzy ice instead, which is at a considerably higher temperature than -15F.
Okay, enough theory. Periodically, the refrigerator has to defrost that coil in the freezer. When it does this, all that frost is melted into water that we professional Appliantologists called “condensate,” which then runs into a trough with a drain hole underneath the coil and then on down to the condensate drain pan down by the compressor, where it evaporates.
Pop quiz: Where does all that melted condensate go if the drain hole in the trough happens to be plugged?
Answer: Out onto your floor!
To fix this, you have to remove that back wall inside the freezer and clear the trough and drain. Don’t be surprised if you find a slab of ice there. Or there may be an ice plug extending down the condensate drain hole. You just need to patiently work at it with hot salt water. The salt helps melt the ice faster, but be careful not to get the salt water on the coil because it could cause corrosion. If you’re not comfortable using salt, just use plain hot water and add a little more patience.
If you need help taking your fridge apart so you can get at this stuff, come to the Samurai School of Appliantology and start a new topic in the Kitchen Forum. We can post diagrams and instructions that’ll show you how to get to the condensate drain and get ‘er done. In fact, we can help you fix any of your appliances that are givin’ you some trouble.
And if you need appliance parts, get ’em thru the parts search box at the top of the page there at the Samurai School. There’s a one year warranty on all parts ordered thru the site so, if you order a part and it doesn’t fix it, return it for a refund– even special order or electrical parts that you already installed! It’s the deal of a lifetime!
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
The Samurai School of Appliantology
http://appliantology.org
Mary wrote:
We have the Bosch 500 series washer. The underwire came out of a bra and sounds caught between the pump and drum. Would really like to get it out myself instead of calling someone. I can’t download the page with the diagram (bosch-fl-washer-clearing-pump.pdf ) Any ideas how to get it out?
Ax and ye shall receive, that is the Way of the Samurai:
Clearing Gookus Out of the Pump in a Bosch Front Load Washer
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
Tammi wrote:
I am having the same problem my Maytag ice2o with the board blinking and flap flapping. It is 4 years later than those posts. Is the board still hard to find? Any advice?
Yep, classic sign of a bad control board in these refrigerators. The board is still available, in stock and ready to ship; click here to buy it. Comes with a one year warranty, too.
(click it to git it)
If you need help installing it, come start a new topic in the Kitchen Forum at the Samurai School of Appliantology and we’ll step you right through it.
Sue wrote:
I have an LG Washer, WM2277HW, and it sounds like the motor?? Kinda loud… and not spinning… and now filled with water in the drum because I can’t get it past the one point to drain… Got a quite from Sears to fix with a 1 year service and all parts would be included for $342. or 90 day on service no parts for $129…. not sure how much these parts will be…I bought this March 1, 2006… and no longer have any service agreement…
Now why would anyone need a Service Agreement when they have Samurai Appliance Repair Man? Why, it’s better than a frog in a blender… er, something like that.
Annywaaayy…
The drain is clogged with what we professional appliantologists call “gookus.” That’s a technical term that refers to coins, nails, bra wires… anything that ain’t supposed to be there.
You’ll need to bail the drum and then access the drain pump so you can open the cleanout and clear the gookus. This purdy pitcher shows you where the drain pump cleanout is on your model:
(click for larger view)
If it’s clear, then there could still be gookus caught in the drain pipe– a little more disassmbly involved with that job and we can help you with that in the Laundry Forum at the Samurai School of Appliantology.
It’s also not unusual for these pumps to just go bad; the motor can burn out or seize up, the impeller can shear off or become so boogared up that it can’t pump the water anymore. If that’s the case with yours, come git you a new drain pump.
benny wrote:
i have a magic chef oven model 5898vvv, approx 19 years old, the display in the clock is out out,cannot see the clock,or timer or oven settings,has benn out for quite a while,started working again the other day for a couple of hours then went out again,not sure if its the clock assembly,any hely would be appreciated
This is a bad ERC (electronic range control, a fancy word for “clock assembly”). Slam dunk. I have personally fought this battle many times.
The ERC is still available and you can buy it here.
(click it to git it)
The part comes with a one year guarantee. If it fails for any reason during that time return it for a refund or replacement. You can also return it for a refund if it doesn’t fix the problem! How ’bout them apples?
If you need help installing it, come start a new topic in the Kitchen Forum at the Samurai School of Appliantology.
Mark wrote:
GE Side By Side GSH25JSTASS water dispenser not working. Water is getting to ice maker. Have replaced valve, but still not working. Don’t think the dispenser is frozen and still need to check to see if power is getting to valve. Could the problem be in the dispenser itself?
Ahh, Grasshoppah, don’t be so quick to assume the dispenser is not freezing up. Dispenser tube freeze-ups are so common in this model group that GE put out a dispenser tube heater kit. Read all about it ratcheer… http://fixitnow.com/wp/2009/01/25/no-water-from-the-dispenser-on-a-ge-refrigerator/
If’n that don’t git it fer ya, come start a new topic in the Kitchen Forum at the Samurai School of Appliantology and we shall illumine thy path!
To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.
Maria wrote
Have a Bosch Nexxt 500 series washer and am getting error E:04 message. Checked hoses and all clear. Suspecting something is stuck in pump. Understand that you have a service manual on how to clear the pump. You refer to the attachment: bosch-fl-washer-clearing-pump.pdf . Can you share?
The appliantological wisdom you seek is on this page: http://fixitnow.com/wp/2009/12/29/clearing-gookus-out-of-the-pump-in-a-bosch-front-load-washer/
If that’s helpful to you, then you can share the love here: http://beer.fixitnow.com
If not, come start a new topic in the Laundry Forum at the Samurai School of Appliantology and we’ll hepya whup up on it.
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
Kelley wrote:
Whirlpool Duet Dryer (WED9200SQ1) keeps blowing thermal fuse. I replaced Themistor and Thermal Fuse and ran one load fine. Trying to start a 2nd load and thermal fuse blew again. All lights come on but it won’t run. I then replaced the Theramal Cut-off and High Limit Thermostat and Thermal Fuse and ran one load fine again and blew the Thermal Fuse on the 2nd load. The lint screen is clean, and exhaust is only 5 ft long and clean. I checked the heater element with a meter and it doesn’t appear to be grounded. I also took the heater element out and inspected it and it looks good. When running the exhaust seems strong and warm. I then by-passed the thermal fuse and ran the machine checking things. In automatic mode the heater element heated up, eventually turned off and then turned back on like I think it should. However, when I ran “air only” I noticed the heater element start glowing red and I shut it down. Also, during that test I noticed that the blower seemed to not run continuous. It seemed to be pulsing. I’m not sure what to check next. Any help would be appreciated.
Thermal fuses blow because of a problem with air flow and this is usually in the venting system. If you’re using the slinky-type vent hose, it could be crimped or have a bad case of what we professional appliantologts call, “venterialsclorosis,” like ahso:
Poorly-constructed dryer vents are also the single biggest cause of dryer-related household fires, too. You don’t wanna end up like this guy:
See my award-winning tome, The Ultimate Dryer Venting Guide for details on constructing a good, safe dryer vent.
Also be sure to check the vent exhaust hood outside the house, make sure it doesn’t look like this:
If you need more help figuring out what’s wrong with your dryer, come start a new topic in the Laundry Forum at the Samurai School of Appliantology.
To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.
Example model number WM2277H. The control panel says 57 minutes left in the cycle but it actually runs for another 1 hour and 20 minutes. Wassup wif dat, yo?
Someone (not naming any names) has been skimping on the detergent! You can only use HE detergent in this washer. Even occasional use of the regular stuff will screw it up and make it do a “suds kill cycle.”
More info in this topic at the Samurai School of Appliantology… http://appliantology.org/topic/30518-lg-wm2277h-washer-takes-longer-to-complete-cycle-than-is-displayed/
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
This is LG’s line of condensing dryers (no vent) that use steam injected into the drum during the dry cycle to prevent wrinking. Example model number is WM3431HW.
A common problem is for too much cold water to come in to the drum during the drying cycle, leaving the clothes soggy.
Sublime Master john63 in the The Samurai School of Appliantology illumines us with a basic understanding of what’s going on here:
The COLD WATER VALVE ASSY consists of (3) valves.
The valve on the right side (if facing the front of the washer) is a *Misting* Valve that sends a cold mist into the Duct Assy behind the tub. This cold mist helps to convert *steam* from the tub (during the dry cycle) back to a condensation/liquid form.
As your’re aware—this then begins to pool in the Sump Boot & Drain Pump Assy—to be periodically pumped/drained from the combo washer/dryer.
When this valve becomes faulty—too much cold water enters the Duct & Tub (wet laundry).
More info in this topic at the Samurai School of Appliantology… http://appliantology.org/topic/31016-lg-wm3431hw-dryer/
To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.