If you had the extreme misfortune of purchasing a newer GE top-loading washer, then sooner or later you’ll need to tear down this feculent machine. These tear-sheets from the service manual awwta hepya.
A grasshopper just completed this repair on his Asko dryer and was kind enough to post a well-written step-by-step procedure in the repair forum.
Models Affected:
All 23/25/27 and 29 cubic foot electronic side-by-side refrigerator units with plastic liners manufactured in 2001 or later. This includes all Profile (Arctica and Eterna… dontcha just love the vacuous names? I guess the marketing boobs rejected Mediocra and Pathetica) models.
Consumer Issues:
Freezing in the vegetable (middle) pan or the CustomCool (bottom) pan, frozen water tank or frozen water filter.
Freezing in the pans has caused the following customer rectal cramps:
A frozen water tank caused the following customer headaches:
A frozen water filter has caused the following customer annoyances:
What the Hell is Causing this Freezing Problem?
You mean besides the fact that it’s GE crap? Ok, well, freezing in the pans, a frozen water tank or a frozen water filter are all caused by excessive airflow from the vents in the tower.
Recommended Repair:
To eliminate these freezing issues, buy and install the veg pan temperature reduction kit. Follow the instructions included with the kit.
Note: Replacing the motherboard will do nothing to correct the freezing problems in these areas of the refrigerator.
There have been problems with the motor wire harness connector on these washers. The problems are either a loose or bent terminal in the molex connector.
Unplug the connector and tug on each wire. If a wire comes loose from the plug, bend the locking tab up. If a locking tab is not properly seated in the plug connector, the terminals will not fully engage as the connector is plugged into the motor.
Another manifestation of this problem is that one of the terminals may be bent. Inspect the terminals on the motor side of the connector. Straighten any bent terminals if they exist. Recheck the harness side of the terminal block if any bent terminals are found. Bent terminals can indicate a problem with the locking tab inside the plug.
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
Appliance repair really boils down to knowing one of two things: having excellent analytical and troubleshooting skills OR knowing some cool tricks. This technique for straightening bent door hinges on a dryer falls in the “Cool Tricks” category.
To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.
This is the real deal written by the manufacturer of this washer, not some wannabe-but-ain’t-got-the-balls third party. With over 60 pages of detailed technical information, photographs, diagrams, illustrations, and, yes, schematics, you’ll be able to easily do any repair on your Calypso washer using this manual. It’s written in a clear, easy-to-understand style so that even if you’re a technical neophyte, you can easily handle even the most complex repairs on this washer. All this for less than 20 bucks! Come git you one!
What? You thought I’d like, have one posted here for free? Hello? Ok, Genius, tell me how I’m supposed to buy enough groceries to feed three kids, a dog, and two cats by just giving shi’it away? 🙁
Hey, nolo contendre, compadre… hehe, that’s a little Latin lingo there fer ya, Gunga Din… because he is merciful and gracious, longsuffering, and abundant in goodness and truth, keeping mercy for thousands, forgiving iniquity and transgression and sin, the Samurai graciously accepts your apology; how ’bout you just make a generous love-offering to my flavorite charity and I’ll let you borrow my copy. Domo arigato, M’vato.
So, Old Faithful has shat the bed and you’re thinking about hauling it to the landfill and replacing it with one of those sexy, glitzy appliances you saw in the Sunday paper? And, amazingly, it’s the same price that you paid for Old Faithful 20 years ago! Hmmm, how does that work?
Well, Bubba, you need to listen to this podcast episode before you go do something you might regret!
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This can be the muthah of all appliance repairs, easily rating six mugs on the world-famous SUDs-o-meter. Before you get started, make sure you have at least a six-pack of your most flavorite fermented grain beverage. And read this topic in the repair forum for some of the finer points on technique.
This affects all 2001 models with “M” as the eighth letter in the model, e.g., PSS25SGM, and those units with serial date code LA4, MA4, RA4, SA4, TA4, VA4, ZA4 & AD4.
When the damper door mechanism breaks (usually in the wide-azz open position), the temperature control can no longer regulate the amount of cold air blowing in from the freezer. So, you end up with frozen beer slushy all over the beer compartment.
To verify that the damper door is broken, remove the light shield and rear light bulb from the top of the refrigerator. Enter the factory diagnostic mode by pushing all four temperature control buttons at the same time and start the damper motor test: set the freezer control to 1 (FZ 1) and fresh food control to 0 (FF 0) . Press any other button, such as Custom Cool or Filter Reset to start the damper test cycle. Now, shine a flashlight through right hand side opening of the light assembly so you can see the movement of damper door. If’n it don’t move, well, come git you a new and improved (ha!) damper door kit.
Oh, by the way: to exit test mode, do FZ 1 and FF 6.
If damper door assembly is FUBAR and you need to replace it, pull the top two shelves out about two inches. Then pull the rear tower assembly slightly forward with both hand and move it left and the right to expose the two screws that secure the duct assembly. Also, remove both screws that secure the duct to the ceiling. The rest is plug n’ chug.
Awwite, Hoss, go git ’em.
To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.
If your Kenmore model number is a 253.xxxxxxx, then it was built for Kenmore by Frigidaire. Latest survey results from the field show that these compressors are having a failure rate of 92.76%. After these compressors are replaced in the field (usually as a warranty repair), they run fine for years. The theory is that the Frigidaire plant that makes these refrigerators is having a contamination issue that they have not been able to locate yet. Other manufacturers are using these same compressors with nowhere near the failure rate Frigidaire is having.
To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.
MODELS affected:
Washers:
BLTF2940ES, BTF2140ES, FTF2140ES, FWFB9200ES, GLTF2940ES, LTF2140ES and LTF2940ES
Dryers:
BCEQ2152ES, BEQ1442ES, FE/GQ1442ES. FEQ1442CES, FEQ2152ES, GCE/GQ2152ES, GLE/GQ2152ES, GLE/GQ1442ES and GLE/GQ2152ES.
You know this problem: you turn the selector knob or press any button and get an obnoxious flashy beepy thing in the display. Some models will even taunt you with an “Err” in the display.
I know many of you have been ripping your hair out over this one– I’ve been getting lots of disgusting photos of clumps of hair attached to bloody chunks of scalp. So, I figgered I better post the solution to this little annoyance. This is super easy: The problem is that somehow the control lock has been enabled. “LOC” is displayed on digital displays and the control lock status light is lit. To unlock the control, press the “Options” and “Select” buttons simultaneously. The control lock status light will no longer be lit and you can let your hair grow back!
Before you start having an anxiety attack thinking this is the famous control board failure or running elaborate tests to monitor motor function, let’s check some simple things, like water supply to the washer and the water fill during the rinse cycle.
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
For Maytag dishwashers with model numbers starting with MDB where you suspect the upper spray arm isn’t spinning, there are some excellent suggestions for things to check in this repair forum topic.
Starting to see these fault codes pop up in these otherwise fine machines. The F/11 code is just a generic code generated when there’s a communications error between the two main control boards in the washer. These two boards are the Motor Control Unit (MCU) and the Central Control Unit (CCU).
A common problem is the wiring harness jiggling loose; remove and reseat it and that usually fixes it. If not, then you’re looking at spending some money on control boards. Yes, I said boards, plural. The really sucky part is that there’s no way to definitively and conclusively prove which board, the MCU or the CCU, is at fault so, unfortunately, that only leaves the parts changing monkey method: replace both boards 🙁 (in violation of Samurai’s Ichiban Law of Appliance Repair, I might add… before you do. ;))
But, on a brighter note, the electronics are covered under warranty for 24 months. If your machine is older that this, then you’ll need to shell out some shekels.
The F/H code means the unit isn’t detecting water fill at the flowmeter. The flowmeter sits just in front of the inlet valve and is attached via a hose, and off to the left of the CCU. Part link to the flow meter==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Flowmeter/1381535?modelNumber=GHW9250MW2
If your washer is filling ok, check the wiring from the flow meter to the control board; I’ve seen this harness jiggle loose and cause problems.
For more detailed info, the service manual for this washer is excellent.
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
We’re on a roll! Yet another all listener email episode. In this thriller…
Steve’s three year old Amana refrigerator is freezing stuff in the crisper drawer and his water dispenser quit working. Is there a connection? Bonus: link to the evaporator fan upgrade kit discussed in this episode.
Amy gunked up her Frigidaire front loading washer by washing frilly cotton rugs (never a good idea, by the way). Now, the washer won’t do high speed spin. WTF?
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