Opened dishwasher.
Door opened to floor. Wazzup?
Keep baby off door!
To learn more about your dishwasher, or to order parts, click here.
Opened dishwasher.
Door opened to floor. Wazzup?
Keep baby off door!
To learn more about your dishwasher, or to order parts, click here.
Broken appliance.
What’s inside? Where do I start?
The mouse reveals all!
Electric oven
won’t cook my frozen pizza.
Bad bake element?
Related Post: How to Troubleshoot an Electric Oven that Doesn’t Heat Up
To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.
GE Arctica:
No cold air flow, warm beer! Spew!
Grok on this flow chart.
To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.
Jason wrote:
My clothes washer has begun leaking water. It’s a combo washer/dryer. It’s model number FEX831FS0 by Fridgidaire. I’ve taken it apart and noticed where the water was leaking from but am too unfamiliar with how clothes washers work to know why it’s leaking from this particular spot.
I would really appreciate any sort of assistance you can provide. Thanks!
This is the hole it’s coming from which unless I’m mistaken is the tub. Could it be the seal has broken as this hole looks like it’s supposed to be there?
Thanks very much!!
Domo for sending along a photo of what you’re seeing. I’ve marked it up and included it below:
As you surmised, that’s a hole in the washing machine plastic outer tub. It ain’t supposed to be there. Slap a dab of J-B Weld epoxy putty on there. Fix ya right up!
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
1. Buy the replacement shock absorber kit here.
2. Front Shock Absorbers: Remove the front panel or lower cover panel. Rear Shock Absorbers: Remove the rear panel (12, #20 torx screws around the rear panel).
3. Remove the shock absorber nuts under the rear plate.
4. Support the holder from underneath or secure it with a hook from above.
5. Compress the shock absorber. Angle it outwards and pull it off downwards.
6. Take off the piston rods.
7. Remove the rubber buffers.
8. Install new rubber buffers (included with the new shock absorber kit).
9. Compress the shock absorber and put it into position in the bottom plate.
10. Fit the nut on the underside and tighten it.
11. Front Shock Absorbers: Replace the front panel or the lower corner. Rear Shock Absorbers: Replace the rear panel.
12. Pop a cold one and buy me one while you’re at it. Domo!
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
Robert Fowler wrote:
I am interested in the GE refrigerator motherboard recall list. I saw your link to Pegi and I tried to download the letter and list of model numbers but it says I do not have permission to do so even though I registered.
What do I need to do to get a copy of this list of recalled model numbers?
The repair guy was just out and said my motherboard is shot and it is expensive to replace. If there is a recall for this board, it would be nice to know.
Thanks.
To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.
Mary wrote:
I have a whirlpool quiet partner II dishwasher model # du1148xtpb9. I installed it 2-2006 it worked great for a little over a year. A little noisy but did the job. Well it has stopped washing all together. It will mist the dishes and fill the bottom of the washer and it will drain when you push the cacle button but when the wash cycle is supposed to start all it does is make noise and no water. So no washing. Any ideas would be greatly apperciated.
You need to install a new motor-pump assembly in your dishwasher. Not too bad a job but the part ain’t ezzacly cheap. On some models with this same design, such as Kitchenaid-branded ones, the motor-pump assembly was covered by a five-year warranty. In reviewing the warranty guide for your dishwasher, however, it appears that the pot-bellied, bald-headed Buddha hath not grinned down upon you ‘cuz your warranty is for just one year on everything. As we say in the Dojo, “Solly, Chollie!”
But, since your dishwasher is only three years old, Whirlpool may send you a new motor-pump assembly at no charge or half price. It could happen. And pigs once flew outta my…
Sadly, this is a common problem with this otherwise highly mediocre dishwasher. Happily, it’s a plug n’ chug job. If you can fog a mirror and use your opposable thumb, you can do dis thang– it’s a scant 12-ounce mug on the world-famous SUDS-o-meter. I even have a step-by-step guide for you ratcheer. So come git you a new motor-pump assembly and do it to it!
To learn more about your dishwasher, or to order parts, click here.
cesces3 wrote:
The oven door of my Thermador PRG304US has come off. How can I put the door back to the oven? Thanks
Ahh, Grasshoppah, first make sure the door hinges are locked down with the hinge latch, the little pivoting metal hoop on the end of each hinge. Then simply reverse the door removal destructions shown below. May take a try or two but persevere and ye shall overcome.
To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.
Lots of times, when you’re working on Maytag appliances, you need to know the series number to order the correct part. Not to be confoosed with the model number, the series number refers to different production series within the same model. In the world of manufacturing, it’s common to substitute originally-specified components with upgraded or re-designed ones based on failure reports from the field. Since these component changes may affect other components in the machine, which may have been modified, you need a way to keep track of what component goes with which production run. In the Maytag world, this is done via “series numbers.” Series numbers are simply the first two digits of the serial number, located on the model number tag, like ahso:
If you’re having trouble locating the model number tag on your appliance, come feast your bloodshot squinties on these diagrams.
This Thanksgiving holiday, let’s take a moment to reflect on the joy and comfort of family reunions and sharing a meal together. Let us also share with others outside our immediate families since we’re all one big human family. In keeping with the spirit of sharing, I’d like to share this home video from the Samurai family’s Thanksgiving meal yesterday:
Shock hazard. Danger, Will Robinson!
Kenmore washer stops.
Raise and lower lid: restarts.
A flakey lid switch.
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
This washer is actually the Whirlpool Duet Sport washer with a Kenwhore label slapped on it. The model number of the insolent washer in this case is 110.46462501.
According to the tech sheet supplied with the washer, F25 indicates a possible drive motor tachometer error. (NOTE: The tech sheet is located behind the front quarter panel– remove the three hex head screws at the very bottom to remove the panel. The tech sheets will be folded up in a little plastic pouch. If some slimeball stole yours, you can borrow mine… just be sure to return it!)
Anyway, note the emphasis on the word possible in the error code description. These error code descriptions ain’t gospel– they’re just meant to be suggested starting points in your battle. So you can’t just go ‘n replace a part “‘cuz the tech sheet sez so.” Nawsir, it just ain’t that easy.
This is one of those cases where it takes field experience and kidneys of steel of know what’s really going on here. Now, for the first time ever in on the Internet, two battle-hardened and most-wise Sublime Masters of Appliantology reveal their secret kata for defeating the vexing F25 error code in a Kenmore HE2 front-loading washer!
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
Example model number for this washing machine is WPRE6100. If you’re having a no-go problem with this machine, one of the first things to check is the error code on the inverter board. The inverter is located down in the motor, remove the front panel to see it.
To remove the front panel:
1. Locate the two (hidden) spring clips between the top cover and front panel– look in that seam with a flashlight, you’ll seem ’em. Or you can feel them with your putty knife.
2. Insert your putty knife and push forward on the clips to release ’em.
3. The front panel will tilt out toward you and lift off the two hooks at the bottom.
There’s an LED on the board that will flash the error code. The location of the LED and its mystical flash code interpretation are shown below.
If the LED is flashing an error code, first thing to try is resetting the inverter board:
To Reset the Inverter Board: Push the timer knob in so the washer is idle. Unplug the machine for one minute. Plug back in and raise and lower the lid six times within 12 seconds.
After resetting the inverter board, put the machine in a spin cycle and see if it runs. If not, check for a green blinking light on the inverter board. It will flash failure codes according to the picture above. If no light you probably have a blown fuse built into the neutral side of the harness on the white/red wire.
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.