This just in from the appliance repair hotline, a special advisory against using Powerball cleaning tablets in Fisher-Paykel dishdrawers, also marketed in Ameedica under the Whirlpool and Kitchenaid brands:

Reports that a new type of dishwasher detergent tablet damaged switches in some dishwasher models has prompted the New Zealand Consumer Institute to order the tablet manufacturer to reimburse owners for repairs.

Reckitt Benckiser, maker of Finish PowerBall cleaning tablets, denied that the tablets are at fault, but agreed to cover repairs.

According to the Institute, the threestage tablets, which are inserted into the same compartments as granulated dishwashing detergents, create excessive foam in the tubs of dishwashers that eventually interfere with the operation of switches. DishDrawer units made by Fisher & Paykel are said to be especially prone to the problem.

PowerBall tablets are marketed worldwide under various brands, including Electrosol in North America. It’s not known if PowerBall tablets available in the U.S. have the same formulation as those sold in New Zealand. DishDrawer dishwashers are marketed in the U.S. under the Fisher & Paykel, Whirlpool and KitchenAid brands.

So, let that be a lesson to you!

And thanks to Master Appliantologist Pegi for posting this information in the repair forum.

What’s a grasshopper to do?

Use The Force, Luke!

Now, you might be tempted to conclude that your dishwasher’s $300 control panel is defective. And you might even go out and buy you a new one, install it, and… you still have the same problem! The solution could be blindingly simple and require no parts at all.

Frustrated by an annoying leak from the bottom of the door on your Frigidaire dishwasher, model number starting with PLD? Sublime Master Willie has the fix.

The solution can be stunningly simple… if you don’t outsmart yourself.

Service pointer from Whirlpool on this problem.

Models affected: Whirlpool DU1050XTP, DU1100XTP, DU1101XTP, DU1145XTP, DU1148XTP, DUC600XTP, DUL240XTP, GU2400XTP, GU2500XTP, GU2548XTP, GU2600XTP, GU3200XTP; KitchenAid KUD x 01-6 (where “x�? is any letter). All serial codes.

IF you encounter a dishwasher from among those listed that doesn’t operate, look to the possibility of a heater fault-detection problem. Under these conditions, the clean LED blinks seven times and the unit stops operating. The condition can also apply to a dishwasher that has had the electronic control replaced.

The cause of the problem is an insufficient rise in water temperature during a given period. The heater fault-detection program that was added to the electronic control is designed to shut down the dishwasher if the board-test for proper water temperature rise is not sufficient.

The details: The cycle was modified to add 8 minutes 45 seconds of heat at the beginning of the main wash cycle. If the inlet water at the thermistor is below 110°F, the thermistor looks for a water rise of 4°F. If the inlet water is over 110°F, the test is for an increase of 2°F. If the temperature rise is below specifications, the unit will drain and the clean light will blink seven times.

The detection described above is ignored if the temperature is out of the normal temperature range of 64°F to 160°F during this heat period. This thermistor temperature test is not done to increase water temperature for better washability, but to only assure that the heater is functioning.

Remember, proper incoming water temperatures should be between 120°F to 140°F. You will need to identify possible causes of insufficient temperature rise. These causes may include checking the wiring to/failure of the control, the heating element, the thermistor, the inlet valve, door switch, motor or capacitor. Be certain water is not siphoning during fill. Once the heater fault detection has occurred and the condition resolved, the electronic control must be reset by initiating a special diagnostic cycle. Use the Product Tech Sheet shipped with each dishwasher to identify the correct cycle sequence. The rapid advance cycle will not properly reset the electronic control.

For more information on your dishwasher or to order parts, CLICK HERE.

Grasshopper writes:

How long do dishwashers last? Specifically a Frigidaire Ultra Quiet I. What is the point (dollar amount) where you would buy a new dishwasher instead of repairing the old? Daughter dropped a glass in dishwasher – pump quit in agony after grinding on glass chips – dishwasher full of water.

I’ve used your website to fix my 20 yr old wash machine and drier. Your wisdom is appreciated.

According to my illuminating and inspiring epistle, “How Long Should Appliances Last?” the half-life for built in dishwashers is about 13 years. You should read the linked article carefully because the concept of appliance half-life originated here at Fixitnow.com and you’ve not heard of it before.

Another salient point to consider in your repair vs. replace deliberations is whether or not you’ll be doing the repair yourself. Obviously, doing it yourself greatly tilts the economics in favor of repair over replace.

And now, a special treat for you Bosch dishwasher owners out there…

SHI/U 43 MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.

To check each program indicator light, press its button.

To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH buttons a second time. When testing has ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:

WASH = Heater fault

RINSE/DRY = Water filling fault (over or under filling)

CLEAN = NTC (temperature sensor) fault ? note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC fault

To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.

If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), RINSE/DRY light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won’t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), CLEAN light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

SHU 4322 & 4326 MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?20? = version 0 without jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.

To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show “88” when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and “8h” when Delay Start button is pressed.

To start testing, press both the REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4).

0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault

1 = Aqua Sensor (“Sensotronic”) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)

To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.

If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “4” and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show “0”, water won’t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “8” immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

SHU 53 MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.

To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show “88” when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and “8h” when Delay Start button is pressed.

To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4).

0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault

1 = Aqua Sensor (“Sensotronic”) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)

To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.

If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “4” and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show “0”, water won’t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “8” immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

SHI/U 68– MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?20? = version 0 without jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.

To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show “88” when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and “8h” when Delay Start button is pressed.

To start testing, press both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4).

0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault

1 = Aqua Sensor (“Sensotronic”) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)

To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.

If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “4” and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show “0”, water won’t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “8” immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

SHV 43/48 MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button. NOTE: TO ENABLE LIGHTS TO COME ON, DOOR MUST BE OPENED.

To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, SCRUB WASH, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each program button. When SCRUB WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN and REFILL RINSE AGENT lights also come on (for SHV 4803 models) or CLEAN light also comes on (for SHV 4303 models). NOTE: TO ENABLE LIGHTS TO COME ON, DOOR MUST BE OPENED.

To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH buttons a second time. When testing has ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:

POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault

SCRUB WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)

REGULAR WASH = NTC (temperature sensor) fault ? note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC fault

To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.

If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), SCRUB WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won’t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating. NOTE: TO ENABLE LIGHTS TO COME ON, DOOR MUST BE OPENED.

If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

SHU 9902/9905/9906 (Millennium) MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.

To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, SCRUB WASH, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each program button. When SCRUB WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on.

To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH buttons a second time. When testing has ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:

POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault

SCRUB WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)

REGULAR WASH = NTC (temperature sensor) fault ? note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC fault

To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.

If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), SCRUB WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won’t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

SHU 991x/992x (Integra) MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.

To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, SCRUB WASH, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each program button. When SCRUB WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on andan audible tone (?beep?) also occurs.

To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH buttons a second time. When testing has ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:

POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault

SCRUB WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)

REGULAR WASH = NTC (temperature sensor) fault ? note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC fault

To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.

If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), SCRUB WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won’t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

SHU 33 MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.

To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each program button. When REGULAR WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on.

To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time. When testing has ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:

POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault

REGULAR WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)

RINSE & HOLD = NTC (temperature sensor) fault ? note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC fault

To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.

If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won’t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), RINSE & HOLD light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

To learn more about your dishwasher, or to order parts, click here.

(click to enlarge)

Went on a dishwasher service call the other day. Complaint was that the dishwasher was completely dead. The customer had already verified that the circuit breaker wasn’t tripped.

First thing I always do on a dead dishwasher complaint is to verify that power is available at the power junction box in the dishwasher. I removed the kickplates, then open the junction box cover and, SHAZAAM! that’s what I saw. It’s a wonder the breaker didn’t trip!

Invariably, I get asked, “What caused those wire connections to burn?” Loose electrical connections generate heat– these wire nuts were probably not installed correctly and loosened enough over time to cause the connection to burn. In this case, the connections were contained by a grounded metal box, so there was little fire danger.

To learn more about your dishwasher, or to order parts, click here.

GE / Kenmore Dishwasher Check Valve Assembly; No-Drain or Poor Draining = Clean Out Check Valve and/or Replace Flapper Gasket (click to enlarge). Located at the very back in the middle – take off the cover.

Parts Link: Piston Assembly for Check Valve

To learn more about your dishwasher, or to order parts, click here.

Annisa McAllister wrote:

Frigidare Gallery Model #GPDB998JC0. Bracket supporting heating element became a free spirit and allowed the heating element to melt a 3-inch long little trench in the bottom of the tub. Don’t think it melted a hole, but pretty close. Can I repair with some type of epoxy, ect. ?? Please help restore my kitchen karma….Thanks !!!

_______________________________

Message sent from IP: 70.178.106.11

Not to worry, my leetle grasshopper, your karma is unviolated. I’ve done this repair many times using a good-quality, high-temperature epoxy. In extreme cases where a huge, gaping hole is burned into the tub, you’ll need to pick out the charred and curdled plastic around the wound and cover it with a fiberglass patch, and then slather it with epoxy.

Another technique, easier but with less strength, is to use a duct tape patch on the outside and then slather the epoxy on top of it from the inside. Once the epoxy cures, you can peel away the duct tape.

stvsue wrote:

I just found your site and fixed my dishwasher thanks to your info!
You provided a picture showing the simple task of giving the fan on the motor a twirl to unstick it and…Yahoo! it worked! Thanks again!

_______________________________

Message sent from IP: 4.235.84.109

Thanks for your comments! For the benefit of others reading this, the GE dishwasher repair pearl you found is here.

BTW, I’ve noticed that Yahoo seems to be giving much better search results than Google lately. Is King Goo-Goo slipping (*gasp*)?

Stephan wrote:

My dishwasher was not working tonight, Saturday, 10pm. What a pain in the a…

But no, I found a solution in 2 seconds on your webpage.

Thanks a lot!

_______________________________
Message sent from IP: 69.207.170.159

I assume you’re referring to my Dishwasher FAQ page. Glad to hear you whupped up on that bad boy!

And thanks for your feedback!

Yes, grasshopper, there is a trick which is revealed here.

Water heating stopped in your Kenmore or Whirlpool dishwasher? If it has a Kenmore name on it, this dishwasher is manufactured by Whirlpool and there’s a Whirlpool Service Pointer out on this very problem. Lots more information in this thread from the Samurai School of Appliantology.