Your Precious Words:
Have read the post but what makes this strange to me is that it worked fine, moved it 20 feet, other side of the wall it was on, same exhaust connection and same gas line but new connections. Finished the move, fired it up and all that happened is the “pilot” flame ignited but the system did not kick in. Cloths do not dry.
Thoughts on this.
Thank you in advance.
This model does not have a pilot flame. What you’re seeing is the hot surface ignitor glowing momentarily but then going out because the gas valve is failing to open. This is a classic sign of bad gas valve coils. Very easy and inexpensive to replace. Watch videos on how to replace dryer gas valve coils for various dryer models.
Your Precious Words:
I’ve had an issue a couple of different times with my Whirlpool Duet Dryer and it concerns me. Three different times, there has been enough lint accumulated in the lower compartment that it caught on fire. I’ve checked the exhaust vent and clean it regularly, same for the bottom compartment. Still, it seems like a considerable amount of lint makes it down to the bottom compartment. What happens then is that the lint catches fire and burns for a small time, melting the thermal fuse and shutting the gas valve down. My question is: Is this normal or am I missing a part (like a burner shield or something)? We clean the lint screen every load. One issue I suspect is that the felt seal on the front of the drum is failing (I can see it hanging out in a couple of places). Would that cause this problem? It also seems to take a considerable amount of time for our dryer to get our clothes dry (two-99 minute cycles per load usually does the trick).
What can I do???
BTW, if you’re not a subscriber to our free newsletter, Appliantology, you’re really missing out on Special Samurai Secrets™ like the ones mentioned above and much, much more! Subscribe to Appliantology today!
Okay, with that bit of shameless self-promotion out of the way, let’s move on to how we can fix your dryer problem. As explained in the two aforementioned Appliantology newsletter issues, the problem with your dryer is a bad vent. What makes a bad vent? Excessive back pressure. Also note that a vent can look good and still be bad or marginal. Watch this:
For the average homeowner, it probably makes more sense to buy and install a product like the LintAlert dryer vent monitor. It’s a lot less expensive that the tester I used in the video above and, once you install it, there’s no set up rigamarole to do– it just quietly monitors your dryer vent as you use it and lets you know if there’s a problem as it develops. It monitors the dryer vent system and displays a percentage of blockage. And LintAlert works with both gas and electric dryers, despite what you’ll read at the RepairClinic site where it says, “For gas dryers only.” This is not true. It works the same exact way on both gas and electric dryers. For electric dryers, you’ll need to plug the LintAlert device into a nearby 120vac outlet, the washer outlet will work just fine.
To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.
Your Precious Words:
Changing out the lid switch (#661517)and the only replacement part I can find is a 3-wire switch (#279347). My oem is a 2 wire switch. Can I use this replacement part safely? If so, how?
The switch is designed to be multipurpose and can be safely used on your washer. If you look closely at the side of the switch with the two spades, you’ll see the letters “NO” and “NC.”
NO – Normally Open
NC – Normally Closed
You want attach one wire to the spade labeled “NO.”
The other side is common, attach the other wire to it and you’ll be good to go.
You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at Fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!
Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.
Your Precious Words:
dryer shuts off in midcycle is after it cools down can restart it. The timer keeps running even after the dryer motor has shut down
Hi Joe,
You have what we Professional Appliantologists call a “bad motor.” The motor is over-heating and tripping its internal thermal overload protector. The thermal overload protector is an integral part of the motor. So, the fix is to replace the motor. Here’s the part link to the motor with a 365-day return policy ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drive-Motor/2200376/948442?modelNumber=SDE2606AYW
You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at Fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!
Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.
Your Precious Words:
Trying to find a schematic for this model the pully has a horrendous squeak and I used w-d-40, still screeching. So I need to buy a part but instead of taking it out and dryer sitting with down time while I search for the part, I would rather leave it in, and continue to use the dryer, while I order the part. Need to diagram that shows all the pulleys so I can identify the one it is and need a part number.
If you (or other readers) have the Duet Style dryer, here’s how to disassemble it to install the parts:
You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at Fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!
Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.
Let’s step through some tips and tricks for ferreting out which one is the bad actor.
Gas Valve Coils
These often fail intermittently, making diagnosis difficult. To test, watch the burner assembly while the dryer is heating. If the igniter glows for a while and then shuts off without the gas turning on, it usually means one of these coils is bad. Here’s the part link with a 365-day return policy ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Gas-Valve-Solenoid/279834/3479
This flame sensor should have continuity at room temperature (no flame). Check for continuity with a multi-meter before replacing. Here’s the part link to the flame sensor with a 365-day return policy ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Flame-Sensor/338906/2681
This video explains how to test the flame sensor:
This video shows how to replace it:
You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at Fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!
Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.
So you’re minding your own business, going about your morning and getting ready for work. You open the refrigerator for your morning beer and discover, to your horror, that all the beer is warm! Bile burns the back of your throat as your trembling hands frantically search the internet for an answer. But your terror turns into frustration and then outright rage after you’ve sifted through a dozen pages of fluff and non-answers. Why isn’t there a page that can just methodically guide a panic-stricken mind through process of figuring out what’s wrong with his warm refrigerator?
Ahh, but there is! Behold the Samurai’s Warm Refrigerator Flowchart. It’s the perfect page for a Grasshoppah facing down a warm refrigerator. The Samurai methodically and expertly steps you through the diagnosis and then links you to the page that shows you exactly how to fix the problem. Check out the Warm Refrigerator Flowchart, download it today and keep it handy. Also makes a great gift for that special someone who already has it all.
Washer & Dryer Recommendations
In this episode of their award-winning and internationally-acclaimed podcast on Fixitnow.com Radio, Samurai Appliance Repair Man and Mrs. Samurai discuss their recommendations if you’re considering buying a new washer and dryer. You’ll laugh, you’ll cry, it’ll become a part of you. Come have a listen.
The Samurai is re-launching his local in-home appliance service business as The Appliance Guru. It’s an old business with a new name. Why? Well, our other business name, Fixitnow.com Samurai Appliance Repair Man, plays well on the web but we discovered not so good as a service business. For one thing, people just could not seem to remember the web site address, Fixitnow.com. Invariably, they’d ask, “What was it again, Fixit.com?” We actually had a local writer do an entire article in a local magazine about our site and she re-named it, “Fixitagain.com!” Read more about our name change here.
So if you live in the New London, New Hampshire, area or know someone who does, please keep The Appliance Guru in mind for expert in-home appliance repair service!
Your Precious Words:
OK, so I am ready to buy another set of laundry machines. After coming to this site for the last 8 or so years I figured you’d be best to ask….
Top loader or front loader?
Old skool or hi efficient?
I really want machines that work & don’t break down (too often#. Doing about 2+ loads a day gives these appliances alot of use. If I buy new machines I don’t want to smell mold when I open the washer & I don’t need bells & whistles or computer boards that crash either.
The set I have now #Whirlpool – Washer LSQ9549LWO & Gas Dryer LGQ9857LWO) has given me some troubles over the past 7 years….all dryer issues (& a 24′ vent run!) but now I have an agitator that isn’t agitatin’, a rusty lid and a tub that looks scumy #soap scum above normal water line# on the washer…..so, the wife wants new, even though these machines do a decent job of cleaning!
I’ve checked consumer reports and reviews from lots of sites and there is soooo much conflicting information. I was ready to buy the Whirlpool WGD94HEXW based on consumer reports recommendation##1# but then I read the reviews #only 1 star buy owners of the machines#. I want to make a good decision! Can you help shed some light on my dy-lemma?
Or, let me ask you like this……if you were to go get yourself a new set of machines….what would the Samurai buy?
Thanks, in advance, for your wisdom!
Great question! In this episode of their award-winning and internationally-acclaimed podcast on Fixitnow.com Radio, Samurai Appliance Repair Man and Mrs. Samurai discuss their recommendations if you’re considering buying a new washer and dryer. You’ll laugh, you’ll cry, it’ll become a part of you. Come have a listen.
Your Precious Words:
After doing the diagnostics it appears that I need new solenoids on the gas burner. Do you have these or do I need to buy the who burner assembly
Hi David,
If the coils (or solenoids) on the gas valve are bad, they can be replaced easily and inexpensively without having to replace the gas valve itself. In fact, to replace the coils, you don’t even need to shut off the gas!
These gas valve coils often fail intermittently, making diagnosis difficult. But here’s a quick n’ easy way to check the gas valve coils on the valve in a gas dryer. Watch the burner assembly while the dryer is heating. If the igniter glows for a while and then shuts off without the gas turning on, it usually means one of these coils is bad. Don’t bother trying to figure out which one is bad– just replace both as a set to avoid aggravation later on.
That set will work with your model and with most common models of gas dryers out there today.
This video shows you how to replace the valve coils in a gas dryer…
To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.
You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at www.fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!
Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.
Your Precious Words:
I get no flame, no valves clicking open and no glow on my ignitor. I found my thermal fuse was open, so need to get a new one of those, but I have been looking for a part you mentioned called the operating thermostat. I don’t have a schematic but do have an assembly diagram and I can’t fine that part anywhere. Can you give me a clue where I might fine it and check continuity?? thanks man, love your website. I visit you about every 5-7 years when my washer/dryer break.
Hi Keith,
Good job getting this far! Your particular model, the Whirlpool-built 27″ dryer with the lint filter in the door, uses a thermistor instead of an operating thermostat. This is actually becoming the norm for modern dryers as electronic control boards are increasingly used to control the dryer.
A thermistor works as the operating thermostat because its resistance changes with temperature. This change in resistance in read by the control board which then makes decisions about cycle time, powering up the heating elements, etc.
On the older versions of this same dryer, which did have an operating thermostat, it was located in the same exact place where the thermistor is now located in the new models, like yours.
This video shows you how to get to it and replace it:
You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at www.fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!
Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.
Your Precious Words:
My drier seems to have something trapped in the motor and is not working. How can I check it and remove it?
Hi Mary,
Your Amana dryer comes apart very similarly to the Maytag dryer which is is shown in the video below. Very common to find a sock or something caught in the blower wheel housing.
To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.
Your Precious Words:
They said it couldn’t be done! Sixty-three year old school teacher disassembled, repaired, and reassembled dryer. I am woman; hear me roar. Thank you for providing exactly the information I needed. You have brought me JOY.
Elizabeth, your email has brought this old Samurai great joy. I love hearing about my grasshoppers’ triumphs over their dysfunctional appliances. We are all applauding you here at Samurai International Headquarters on your victorious repair!
You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at www.fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!
Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.
Your Precious Words:
s/n MM2102599 8yr old gas dryer that tenants say slowly stopped drying the clothes until now they don’t dry at all, still turns, no flame thru peep hole and I don’t hear any clicking where it would be trying to ignite. Gas is flowing to the dryer I know. Please advise which parts I should buy. Replaced igniter, etc in my home’s dryer, so familar with repair which I plan to do. thx. corey
Hi Corey,
Sounds like a couple of things going on here. First, the “slowly stopped drying the clothes” part of your question makes me think we’re dealing with a bad venting issue. This screencast explains what’s going on with that:
As for the stopped drying part of your problem, there are two common culprits in gas dryers: the thermal fuse and the gas valve coils.
If indeed you have a bad vent as explained in the screencast above, then the thermal fuse probably finally blew.
This video shows you how to test the thermal fuse to see if it’s bad:
If the thermal fuse tests good, then you probably need to replace the gas valve coils. An easy check for this is to see if the ignitor starts glowing up when you first start the cycle but then you hear a click and the ignitor stops glowing. This is a sure sign of bad gas valve coils.
You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at www.fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!
Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.
Your Precious Words:
dryer runs but doesn’t heat. replaced thermal limit, hi limit, ohmed element o.k., check voltage L1 & L2 o.k., checked voltage on most large wires on timer o.k. timer clicks smooth. What’s next?
You’ve covered all the bases except one: the centrifugal switch in the dryer motor:
The example shown is for a Whirlpool dryer but all dryer motors operate similarly. Some centrifugal switches are separately replaceable (like this one); some are not.
For an electric dryer no-heat complaint where you’ve checked everything else as you have and still not getting heat, that only leaves a bad centrifugal switch in the dryer motor. On most models, including yours, that means a new motor because the centrifugal switch is not separately replaceable.
You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at www.fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!
Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.
To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.
A dryer that overheats or gets too hot can ruin clothes and even start a fire in your house! The cause is usually very easy to find and correct. This Samurai Screencast™ explains how to get your dryer running right again.
To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.
