Your Name: Justene

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: kenmoore

Model Number: 110.22062102

Your Precious Words:
my washer wont drain…I have received what seems to be the well known “LD” error. I have removed the back (small) panel and cant access the pump. As I understand it I have to remove the bottom panel to access the pump? Any advice about draining water before laying the machine on it’s back to remove bottom panel?

Yes, the much-beloved LD error in the Whirlpool-Kenmore Calypso (a.k.a., Collapse-o) washer. You undoubtedly need the upgraded motor and pump kit ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drain-Pump/285990/1058894

This motor and pump have been completely re-designed because the old one was so prone to clogging and failure.

The pump is replaced from the bottom of the washer by tipping the washer on it’s FRONT panel, not the back. Emptying the water from the tub is one of those glamor jobs that us professional appliantologists do at least once a day. It’s not rocket science: you bail out as much as you can with a scoop and bucket (you know, bailing like in a leaky boat) and then you can use your wet vac to get the rest.

Once the washer is on its front panel, removing and replacing the motor an pump is just a matter of disconnecting the obvious wire harnesses and bolts. It’s plug n’ chug, about two mugs on the world-famous SUDS-o-meter.

You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at Fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Your Name: David

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: GE

Model Number: WJRE5550H1WW

Your Precious Words:
I am looking for a service manual for the above washer. I can’t find one on GE’s website. Is there another source? Thanks for your help.

Ah, Grasshoppah, you seek the coveted scroll on the GE Profile Washers with the mystical Infusor washer system. Yes, we have the particular scroll you seek as well as many others in the colossal Library of the Appliantology Academy. However, only Apprentice Appliantologists possess sufficient chi to download manuals there.

Do you think you have what it takes to become an Apprentice? We shall see; can you snatch this pebble from my hand, Grasshoppah?

You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at Fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!

Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Your Name: Dave

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: Bosch

Model Number: wfmc4301uc

Your Precious Words:
Machine goes into error code 13 way to many times usually on heavy loads but it has done it on all types of loads. Bosch says its timing out on drain and it’s not the filter clogged on my machine,or too much soap.If it ‘s sensing water in the drum. HELP!!

Hi Dave,

Yes, the control throws the E:13 error code when the drain time is too long. There are two reasons for this:

1. An actual restriction in the drain hose or the suction boot to the pump;

2. A bad drain pump.

That’s it. I explain in detail how to track down this problem in front load washers in this action-packed episode of my award-winning podcast ==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2012/04/04/ge-front-loading-washer-will-not-drain-even-after-the-pump-filter-was-cleaned-out-what-else-could-the-problem-be/

If, after listening to my podcast above, the drain hose and suction boot check good, then that only leaves the drain pump itself. Replace it and go on with life. You can buy the replacement drain pump here with a 365-day return policy ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drain-Pump/436440/1106007?RCAID=24038

You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at Fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!

Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

All 24″ Thin Twin® Suspension Spring use this suspension shock kit ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Shock-Absorber/W10207783/1468985

It contains three shocks, three self tapping screws, blue Loctite® and an instruction sheet. Correct installation of these springs is crucial for their proper operation. Use all of the parts in the kit and follow the instructions.

Other tips:

• If one suspension shock goes bad, the other two have been stressed.
• Replace all three shocks at the same time.
• Secure the shock to the base before securing it to the tub support.
• Only turn the bell housing!
• Use Loc-Tite® on the threads.
• If the threads in the base are stripped, a 25×13 nut (same as the nut on top of the suspension shock) can be used to secure the shock to the base. It is recommended to use a locking washer, along with the nut.

Your Name: Joe

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: Kenmore

Model Number: 11082983100

Your Precious Words:
The Inner Tub or basket has a heavy plastic ring at the top of it that is filled with liquid. Is this there for counter balance of some sort or has a seal failed and alowed water to enter. Not sure if I should drill a hole to drain this out or not. Thanks for the help.

Don’t do it! That’s the balance ring and the fluid is intentionally put in there to help dampen the machine’s vibrations during spin.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Your Name: Carl

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: Bosch Frontloading Nexxt 500 series

Model Number: WFMC3301UC

Your Precious Words:
This is another E:04 error problem. I found and read the other posts in this thread, took off the outer cover, opened the pump cleanout and removed a button and a paper clip, and put everything back together. STILL getting the E:04 message, apparently when the washer reaches the rinse cycle. I can sort-of work around the problem using the soak, drain, and spin settings, but not consistently; and that is not a substitute for working through the entire cleaning cycle automatically. The output from the drain hose seems sluggish. Is there some place before the pump cleanout where things can get caught? If so, where is that and how do I get at it to clean things out? Thank you for your help.

Hi Carl,

The root of this problem is slow draining. So, the first thing you want to do is listen to this episode of my podcast where I explain how to track down this problem in a GE front loading washer ==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2012/04/04/ge-front-loading-washer-will-not-drain-even-after-the-pump-filter-was-cleaned-out-what-else-could-the-problem-be/

Don’t worry that it’s about a GE washer; as I explain in the podcast, the principles apply to all front load washers because they all work the same way.

If after listening to the podcast and applying the wisdom explained therein the problem still persists, then the only thing left is to replace the drain pump. It is actually not uncommon for these drain pumps to fail this way. Bearings wear out and starting binding randomly causing slow or no pump out problems with the resulting E:04 error code that you’re seeing.

You can buy the replacement drain pump for your Bosch washer with a 365-day return policy right here ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drain-Pump/436440/1106007?RCAID=24038

Replacing it is pretty easy, this page has some helpful tips ==> http://appliantology.org/blog/1/entry-408-tips-for-replacing-the-drain-pump-in-a-bosch-dishwasher/

If you need more help, come start a new topic in the Laundry Forum at the Appliantology Academy ==> www.Appliantology.org

If your GE washer won’t drain, it won’t spin, either. But different things can cause this depending on whether it’s a top loader or front loader. Use the following two pages to help you depending on the type of washer you have:

Top loading washer ==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2012/04/12/ge-top-load-washer-does-not-drain-or-spin/

Front loading washer ==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2012/04/04/ge-front-loading-washer-will-not-drain-even-after-the-pump-filter-was-cleaned-out-what-else-could-the-problem-be/

You can find any appliance part you need through the parts search box here at Fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!

Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Your Name: Deb

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: GE

Model Number: WJSR2070B2WW

Your Precious Words:
WASHER DOES NOT DRAIN OR SPIN. IS THERE A FILTER TO CLEAN? I CHECK THE HOSE FROM THE WALL TO THE WASHER…CLEAR… ANY OTHER HOSES TO CHECK? OTHERWISE, COULD IT BE THE DRAIN PUMP?

Hi Deb,

Let’s have a look at the wiring diagram for your washer…

You didn’t mention anything about it but I’m assuming the washer agitates okay. Assuming that’s the case then, we can see in the wiring diagram that the lid switch must be okay. Because if it were not, the washer would neither agitate nor spin/drain.

So, with the lid switch ruled out, that really only leaves you with a bad drain pump or a blockage in one of the hoses to or from the pump.

You mentioned that you checked the hose from the wall to the washer. Did you check this hose all the way up to the pump? The way I do it is to remove the drain hose from the drain pump and then blow through the drain hose. You should clear an initial slug of water and then the hose should blow freely. This proves that the drain hose is clear.

If the drain hose is clear, then the problem lies elsewhere; either the drain pump itself or the suction hose going from the tub to the drain pump. By the way, the suction hose is simply the other hose attached to the drain pump. If you follow the drain hose from the wall all the way back to the pump, you have located the drain hose. The other hose attached to the drain pump is the suction hose.

You can check the drain pump suction hose by disconnecting the suction hose from the drain pump and pouring a little bit of water into the tub and then seeing if it comes out of the suction hose where it attaches to drain pump.

Finally, if both of the hoses on the drain pump, the drain hose and the suction hose, are clear, then that only leaves the drain pump itself as the problem. You can buy the new drain pump here with a 365 days return policy ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drain-Pump/WH23X10013/908512?modelNumber=WJSR2070B2WW?RCAID=24038

You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box here at Fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!

Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man