Despite the fact that this is one of the crappiest top-loading washers ever built, replacing the clutch (a common repair on this machine) ain’t too bad a job– about half an hour and two mugs on the world-famous SUDS-0-Meter.

Here’s the brand new clutch and pulley assembly you’ll need for this job (click the pic to order it, right here online!):

A talented Senior Apprentice Appliantologist, dh1200s, has written an illustrated step-by-step for this repair and posted it in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forum. For your reading pleasure, I’ve included his fine write-up below.

dh1200s wrote:

Tools required; 3/8 inch socket and socket wrench to remove clutch pulley bolt. Page 47 of the SM1/2 inch socket or wrench to loosen Drive Motor tension bolt; 5/16″ nut driver or 5/16, ¼” socket on an extension to remove front panel see page 41 of the Service Manual.

1. Lean the washer back and blocked up in that position against a wall for a better reach angle. Rotate 3/8” clutch Pulley Bolt CW to remove clutch bolt.

2. Follow SM page 46 & 47 to remove clutch pulley.

3. Remove 4 screws holding plastic cover on clutch, inspect clutch spring to make sure it is not broken. If either clutch spring retaining end is broken off then the clutch must be replaced. Inspect Roller Clutch bearings and clean up with WD-40 and re-lube with bearing grease. Most machine series use an Upper Roller Clutch bearing and always a lower clutch pulley Roller Clutch bearing. My series 16 machine doesn’t use the Upper Roller Clutch one way bearing. These bearings are one way rotation bearings in the Clockwise direction. Make sure the Spinner Shaft Coupler will rotate freely in the CW direction in both Roller Clutch bearings. If the Roller Clutch bearings or Spinner Shaft Coupler will not clean up with WD-40 I recommend a clutch replacement.

4. Replace white bearing plate into clutch pulley hub, insure key slot slips into clutch Spring pin in the clutch hub.

5. Replace Clutch plastic cover with 4 screws.

6. Reinstalling the Clutch Pulley assembly is the most difficult part of the process. With a tight work area try a test fitment of seating (if used) the Upper Roller Clutch bearing with the notches into the bottom of the wash tub. Then insert the Spinner Shaft Coupler into that bearing rotating CW to reseat the coupler notches to the spinner shaft. Then the clutch pulley to the squared end agitator shaft. Rock back and forth the clutch pulley assembly with upward lifting pressure to reseat the clutch assembly. When the clutch assembly is properly seated you will feel a 1/16-1/8″ gap between the Pulley face and shaft end as mentioned and shown on page 47 of the SM. On reinstallation, tighten Clutch Pulley bolt CCW to 96” pounds 8’ foot pounds (Snug no torque wrench required).

7. Do a quick wash and make sure clutch runs true with no wobble or clicking sound. If the clutch has not been seated properly it will spin off. If this happens go to page 16 of the SM Board Output Test and turn on Drain Pump in Service Mode to pump out excess water.8. Repeat steps 6&7 if the clutch has excessive noise or spins off.

Some Pics for reference; not sure what Mytag calls the coupler that drives the spinner shaft coupler so I named it.

My original clutch is on the right side clutch on the left is a new $50 replacement I wanted to try and it and it works fine in my series 16 nachine. My series 16 machine does not use the upper roller clutch bearing assembly.

Clutch opened up:

Some folks have found the spinner shaft coupler is rusted solid to the one-way roller clutch bearing.

I hope this will help others with their clutch issues on this machine type. Dick

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Technical bulletin from Maytag on this problem.

Went on a service call for a Maytag washing machine that had overflowed and made a messy flood in the basement. After pulling the water inlet valve, the reason for the flooding was readily apparent: one of the protective inlet screens had been removed! (click for larger view)

This is called the stupid plumber’s trick. Don’t do it! If you have a problem with scale gunking up the valve and restricting flow, then fix that problem by installing a water sediment filter! Removing the protective inlet screen just creates bigger and much more expensive problems.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

See this post for help narrowing down a problem in your washer’s drive train (motor, coupler, transmission, clutch), shown in the diagram below (click for larger view).

One sign that the clutch is slipping is that it’ll feel really, really hot after running for just a few minutes.

Once you’re sure you’re dealing with a slipping clutch, Sublime Master of Appliantology Willie B has a cheap and clever bandaid repair that’ll keep it going for a good while longer, maybe even as long as you continue to own the machine!

Related Posts:

Intrepid Apprentice Conquers a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washer with a Lazy Spin

Common Repairs on a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washer

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

…a.k.a., FTF530FJ Canadian. (Have I told you that I love Canada? Oui, oui! As a matter of freakin fact, the Samurai’s paternal family hails from Saskatchewan.)

Sublime Master RegUS has posted the wiring diagram, tech sheet, parts manual, and service manual fer ya ratcheer. Come git you some!

Next time you need to open up your Whirlpool-built direct drive washer (also sold under the Kenmore label), be sure to check the motor shaft and pump drive hub for rust. If you’re replacing the drive coupler— a very common repair on this otherwise fine machine– then you have to remove the motor and pump anyway.

Rusty Motor Shaft on a Whirlpool Direct Drive Washer Motor

Rust on the motor shaft is a tell-tale sign of a leaking pump. Where else would the water come from? The pump fits directly onto this motor shaft.

Rust Inside Pump Socket = Leaking Pump

Sometimes, the rusting on the motor shaft can get so bad that you can’t pull the pump off. In these cases, you may need to resort to a destructive removal. The pump is just plastic and can be removed with hammer, chisel, drilling, whatever works. Doesn’t matter how ugly it gets because the pump is being replaced anyway. The motor is pretty sturdy– just avoid getting plastic shavings down in the winding– could melt and smell funny.

If your washer needs a new pump, come git you one!

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

The two most common causes of knocking noises and instability in this washer during high speed are: 1) a bad shock absorber and 2) a bad “drum support spider“.

On these washers, if a shock absorber is bad, it’s usually obvious — you just need to get some eyeballs on ’em. Just remove the rear panel from the washer and there you be, as shown here. Click the pic for a larger, annotated view. If one of the shock absorbers is bad, replace ’em as a set. Easy fix!

The drum spider, OTOH, ain’t quite so obvious ‘cuz it’s attached to the drum and is hidden from view by the outer tub. So we have to use special Zen Techniques to diagnose it.

The main cause for failure of the drum spider seems to be galvanic corrosion. You can see the corrosion at an early stage on this spider. Click the pic for the larger view.

The drum support spider in this Frigidaire washer had corroded so much that the hub and drive shaft actually broke off. Note the pitting in the metal. That’s from galvanic corrosion. It weakened the spider structural strength so much that it failed during use.

Whence cometh this galvanic corrosion? Not certain at this time but distinct possibilities include: 1) dissimilar metals between the spider assembly and the drum setting up a galvanic reaction– which would be a design flaw, 2) some combinations of detergents, fabric softeners, and water conditions may set up a galavanic "cell" inside the washer during use, 3) improper, poor, or no grounding at the outlet the washer is plugged into could result in small, stray voltages in the drum during wash inducing stray currents and causing galvanic corrosion (could I have said that with anymore geekspeak?).

If the drum support spider is ate up in your Friggidaire (not a typo) washer, and you want to repair it instead of buying a new one, you’ll need to replace the entire inner tub assembly— not a job for the loose of bowel or slim of wallet:

If you decide to take this beast on, here’s some complimentary teardown information that’ll hepya. And if you’re looking for some good reading material for the outhouse, you can buy the complete service manual for this washer.

Related Posts:

Frigidaire-built Front Loading Washer Goes Thumpety-Thump During Spin

High Efficiency Detergents, Front Loading Washers, and the Great Unwashed

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Freebie of the Day: Whirlpool Duet Sport Washer Service Manual

More Helps on the Whirlpool Duet Sport Washer:

War Story: Whirlpool Duet Sport Washer Full of Water and Won’t Pump Out

Fault Codes for the Whirlpool Duet Sport Washer

Comparing the Duet Sport with the Full-Sized Duet

Sublime Master of Appliantology Willie B explains how the pause programmed into the timer affects and controls the transmission’s ability to shift into neutral during drain (“neutral drain”). >> LINK

Sherry wrote:

Duet washer:

Problem– control is locked.

Solution– all the way to the right of panel, push & hold “end of cycle” for 3 seconds(It’s actually written beneath button).

Domo, Sherry! And lots more appliance repair revelations on the Duet washer ratcheer.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.