Life is Good

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Life is good. It’s late afternoon on a Friday and another snow storm is kicking up outside– they’re promising a foot this time. But I’m propped up in bed with my semper fi canine hiking partner, Bubba, laying next to me. And I have my newest little buddy, a Mac iBook G4, perched on my lap, surfing the web on a new wireless Verizon DSL Internet connection that consistently zips along.

Our old Adelphia cable connection had been steadily taking a dump for six months. I’ve spent more than 10 hours on the phone, pressing “1” for English and waiting to talk to a cubicle dweller wearing a headset, reading me canned platitudes about how my home network was to blame. On a couple occasions, I broke through to a “Level 2 tech,” the guys “in the know,” only to schedule a service call with Big Foot the Cable Guy who, while polite and housebroken and all, didn’t know beans about how to troubleshoot cable Internet systems so nothing got fixed.

Now, here’s a great lesson in free-market economics. Since Adelphia blows herds of warthogs, the conditions were ripe for an upstart broadband competitor to come along and woo us away. But, while they didn’t have any competition for broadband providers in my area, Adelphia didn’t need to be responsive and could allocate their resources to markets where they competed with other broadband providers.

Enter Verizon Online DSL. Ok, telecom behemoth Verizon isn’t exactly an upstart, but they only recently started offering broadband Internet access in our area. I didn’t need much wooing; I used my backup connection, Netzero dialup, to get to Verizon’s website and sign up for their DSL service. They mailed me the self-install kit which included the DSL modem and, 10 days later, I was surfing smoothly on a solid DSL connection. After surfing on dialup most of the time for the past month, I had forgotten how fast and versatile broadband can be.

And here’s the kicker. At $25/month (with a Freedom calling package, which we already have), Verizon DSL is less than half the price of Adelphia cable Internet. In this crazy, upside-down world of compooters, it ain’t always true that you get what you pay for. Sometimes, you get more when you pay less.

Anyway, back to my perfect life, here in my cozy bed with my iBook and my Bubba, while a winter storm rages outside. I’m surfing, answering email, chatting on Yahoo Messenger (zenzoidman), answering questions in the repair forum, and streaming some great music from the Hearts of Space website. All this occurring simultaneously on a fast, reliable DSL connection. Yeah!

At one point, my youngest reproductive unit came in to visit me and I tried to explain to him what a miracle this all is. He was unimpressed. Unless you grew up in the days where your college freshman FORTRAN programming class was taught using punch cards, you just can’t appreciate how many light years computing has advanced.

Have you ever heard Hearts of Space on public radio? I’ve been a fan of that show since Stephen Hill started it in the early ’80’s. Every week, he plays an hour of ambient music (or “space music”). The best way to describe ambient music is that it’s quiet music for contemplation, writing, or just laying in bed and taking a trip without leaving the farm, if you know what I mean.

Anyway, you can also listen to Hearts of Space on XM channel 77, Audio Visions, every weeknight from 11pm to midnight (Eastern Time). Trouble is, I also like to listen to Rollye James during that time. My bowels were deeply conflicted… until I found out that you can subscribe to Hearts of Space and listen online to their entire streaming archive of shows whenever you want for $20/month. Well, that was a no-brainer– problem solved!

Right now, I’m streaming my favorite HOS show through my iBook, Program 332, Deep Forest: A Pygmy/Techno/Rainforest Journey. It’s a unique blend of soothing, traditional vocalizations from Pygmy tribes in Africa with modern techno sounds. I know: it sounds really flaky, maybe even fruity, but you gotta hear it to appreciate it. After you listen to an hour of this music, you feel like you just smoked a mondo spliff of B.C. bud even though you’ve had nothing but coffee.

Mrs. Samurai just told me dinner is ready. Fresh haddock and Greek salad, mmmm. Life is good. Later.

Mailbag: Do Maytag Neptune Washers Still Suck?

7 Replies

Russell T wrote:

Greetings oh wise and great samurai. Got a question about front-loading washers. I want one, but don’t want to deal with all the difficulties they have had. Has Maytag fixed the problems with the Neptune, or have they just washed their hands of the problem? It seems that most of the complaints center around moisture (which leads to the electrical problems and mold). It also seems that if the door is left open, there’s no problem. I’ve always left the lid open on my top-loader to prevent the moldy smell.

At any rate, I’m curious to know if a newly-purchased Neptune has got all the fixes, or if there’s a better front-loading option.

Thanks,
Russell

_______________________________

Message sent from IP: 68.55.61.81

You’re on the right track thinking about getting a front loader (more properly called a horizontal axis washer). But you’re going down the wrong road in looking at the Maytag Neptunes. Yes, they still suck.

You should be thinking about the Whirlpool Duet or the Staber. Both are great machines, but the Staber has several things going for it that edge out the Duet. Read more about the Staber vs. the Whirlpool Duet.

Herd of Sheeple

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I just love kickin’ that old horse, Socialist Insecurity. It’s such a perfect example of how far we’ve fallen from a once-proud nation of independent people who prized self-sufficiency and were skeptical of government into a bleating herd of quivering sheeple, utterly dependent on Big Government to take care of us. Mark Outland, at Sierra Times, explains this well:

Social Security, the largest and most invasive Ponzi scheme the
world has ever known, has done more to destroy the American ideals of
self-sufficiency and personal responsibility than any other single
factor, and the fear and hysteria surrounding the President’s
suggestion of personal retirement accounts is proof. Somehow, America
managed to grow and prosper for 150 years without such massive
personal interference. … During most of this time, the concept that
each person was responsible for themselves was a given. Even charity
was conditioned upon true need. … Even when charity was given, the
social pressures to quickly move from dependency to self-sufficiency
— and personal responsibility — were great and ever-present. …
People were expected to do whatever was necessary to provide for
themselves, and not expect their fellow citizens to provide for
them. [read more]

The Empire Strikes Back

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Blogs have proven to be a serious threat to the Empire’s status quo. So much so that the Empire is striking back with yet another naked power grab. The Beltway Bandits want to limit your political speech on the Internet, even on your own website! Read the dispatch below and pass it on to your friends and associates on the Internet.

D o w n s i z e r – D i s p a t c h

|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|

Please forward to friends who value free speech on
the Internet.

Last week, FEC Commissioner Brad Smith fired the shot
heard round the Internet. He said political activity
on the Internet is likely to be regulated. Smith
opposes this notion because he believes it’s
unconstitutional. He was engaging in whistle-blowing.

His opponents are accusing him of “misleading” or
being an “alarmist.” But this is not a hoax.

A federal judge has specifically ordered the Federal
Election Commission to regulate political activity on
the Internet. These new regulations must comply with
other regulations on political activity established
by the Bipartisan Campaign Reform Act of 2002 (BCRA).

This means YOU could be subject to regulation. You
might trigger these regulations by…

* Forwarding a campaign press release using
email.
* Printing a campaign press release on your
website.
* Posting a campaign ad on your blog.
* Linking to a candidate’s website from your home
page.

But websites and email lists tied to established
corporate media institutions are exempt from these
regulations. The New York Times’ website is free from
regulation, but your website and email communications
will not be.

All of this is a consequence of BCRA, a law that
protects incumbent office holders from criticism, and
privileges the established corporate news media with
full speech and press rights that you no longer
enjoy.

Please go to www.DownsizeDC.org right now, click on
the link under the headline “Save Our Blogs,” read a
short explanation of how this has all come about, and
then use the easy Electronic Lobbyist System to send
a message to Congress asking them to repeal BCRA and
restore your freedom of the press.

Jim Babka
President
DownsizeDC.org

|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|*|

D o w n s i z e r – D i s p a t c h
is the official email list of
http://www.DownsizeDC.org

Fight the power! Don’t let Da Man keep you down! Let’s take Ameedica back!

To conveniently email this dispatch, click the cute little envelope below.

Washing Machine Shootout: The Staber vs. Whirlpool Duet

18 Replies

Susan Marek wrote:

Welcome to the Mac and firefox –however Mac’s Safari is cool too! Firefox is for windows users to try to avoid most viruses/spyware thru internet– until it gets popular too.

Now for the big question:

I see you feel Staber is best bet going–still after the whirlpool Duvet entry?

Also, do either of these do twin and queen comforters or King Duvet?

_______________________________

Message sent from IP: 24.185.40.124

I think the essential difference between Macs and PCs comes down to this: I use a PC because I have to; I use a Mac because I like to. And I like the Safari browser, too. But I was already using Firefox on my Windows platform and they have a very nice version for the Mac with features not available in Safari (e.g., all the extensions, especially FireFTP, gmail checker, and several others that I rely on heavily).

The Staber washer vs. Whirlpool Duet… hmm, tough call. Both are excellent machines with all the advantages of horizontal axis washers over the old, energy/water hog vertical axis machines.

First, a little terminology. I refer to the Staber as a horizontal axis washer instead of the layman’s term front-loader because it’s more accurate. All front-loaders are horizontal axis washers but not all horizontal axis washers are front-loaders. For example, both the Staber and the Whirlpool Duet are horizontal axis washers; however, the Staber is loaded from the top, whereas the Whirlpool Duet is loaded from the front. Aside from the Staber, all other top-loaders are vertical axis washers, which are distinguished by an agitator in the center of the tub that beats the hell out of your clothes.

Let’s review some other fun facts to know and tell about horizontal axis washers vs. their vertical axis cousins:

Comparison of Vertical Axis vs. Horizontal Axis Washers
Feature Vertical-Axis Washer Horizontal-Axis Washer
Water Use per Load 45 Gallons 15 Gallons
Tub Material Plastic or Porcelain Stainless Steel
Annual Operating Cost $600 $260
Detergent Usage per Load 4-8 ounces 1 ounce
Capacity 8-10 Full-Size Towels 16 Full-Size Towels
Half-Life 12 Years 20-25 Years

Ok, any dufus can see that horizontal axis washers are the only way to go. Recent marketing research has shown that the only people buying vertical axis washers these days live in double-wides, smoke GPC cigarettes, and leave the water running while brushing their tooth. If you fit into that demographic, tell whoever is reading this to you that they can stop now and turn Jerry Springer back on because you’re just looking for the cheapest washer you can find.

Let’s move on to the specific comparison and contrast between the Staber and the Whirlpool Duet:

  • The Staber loads from the top vs. from the front as in the Duet. For people with bad backs (like me) this is a compelling feature.
  • Samurai’s 11th Law of Appliance Repair states that, “Electronics and wet appliances do not mix.” The Staber has NO electronics in the control panel– all user controls on the Staber are mechanical switches and timers. It does use a single motor controller board which is required to control the forward and reverse tumble directions of the motor. The Duet, on the other hand, uses two, mondo-hairy electronics boards, one of which is just for the control panel. I’ve already seen problems with the motor controller board, though these were isolated cases and do not appear to be a design or production flaw.
  • Samurai’s 3rd Law of Appliance Repair states that, “Everything breaks; it’s just a matter of frequency, difficulty, and expense.” The Staber is designed to be repaired by the end-user– no servicer required. Since you sought out my website, I assume you have at least some interest in being able to do most repairs yourself. The Staber washer is totally serviced from the front, so you don’t have to be a gorilla to pull it out and work on it. You buy replacment parts directly from the factory– this means they’re going to cost less than comparable parts for other brands because you won’t be paying a retail markup.
  • The Whirlpool Duet is made in Germany. The Staber is made right here in Ameedica.
  • The Staber is less expensive than the Duet. The Staber all-white base model, HXW2304, sells for $1,199, freight-paid. The Duets are more in the range of $1,500, plus delivery.

Wanna see it in action? Ok, come check out this video of the Staber in action (138 mb). The Staber standard white model HXW2304 is available for just $1,199. This is a delivered price to a business or residential home within the Continental U.S. (free freight). When you purchase your Staber washer through me, you also get these other goodies:

Still have questions? More info at Samurai’s Appliance Emporium.

Dumping the Empire

7 Replies

First, let me be clear: unlike the vogue trend, I do not resent Microsoft simply because they’re the two-ton gorilla of the software world and make an obscene amount of money. Hey, this is Ameedica, making moola is the name o’ da game and that’s a game Homey likes. No, I resent Microslop because they simply suck. Going all the way back to the Days of DOS, they were the king of mediocrity. Every product they have ever came out with spawned a plethora of products created to repair sloppy bugs or implement features that should have been included in the first place. They are the epitome of collectivist thinking: all product development decisions are made by committees of corporate bureaucrats. Collectivist processes, by their very nature, are mediocre and anathema to excellence. That’s why big corporations and big governments are inherently incapable of excellence and they can never do anything quite right.

Anyway, I’ve gotten so fed up with Microslop with all their Windows crap and the cheesy machines made for Windows that I’ve started the pilgrimage to Macs. My dear Mrs. Samurai bought me an iBook G4 about two months ago, when I had my back surgery. It’s a cute little laptop with a 12″ screen and is everything that Windows never was: stable, never crashes, works right every time, the only time you ever reboot is for the rare operating system upgrade (mine is OS X and I’ve had one upgrade back when I first connected to the internet with it). It’s unbelievably sooweet! I’m laying in bed right now, propped up with my Mac on my lap, surfing on a wireless Internet connection, reading, writing, posting, chatting on Yahoo IM (zenzoidman) and this little gem is an absolute joy to use.

Another step I’ve taken to free myself from the Evil Empire is switching over to Firefox to browse the Internet instead of Internet Horror. That’s a step everyone can make now and it’s FREE! Firefox is much faster than Horror, more secure, has tabbed browsing, and lots of other features that make for a better Internet experience.

Next step is to get a Mac workstation so I’ll never again have to defile my eyes and fingers on a Windows machine. Now if I can just move the Appliantology Group out of MSN…

Appliantology Newsletter for February 2005

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Appliance Wisdom

Spiffy New Appliance Parts Lookup Tools

Let the Samurai Help you Fix It Yourself!

“Is There a Washer and Dryer Worth Buying?”

Banishing the Beeping Bosh

GE Announces Recall of Built-In Dishwashers

Appliance Repair Revelation, Opening the Maytag Neptune Washer

How to Know that a Range ERC is Bad

Appliance Repair Revelation, Dishwasher Leaves Dishes Dirty

Whirlpool Announces Dishwasher Recall

Mailbag: Kenmore Front-load Washer Stinks

Life, Liberty, and the Pursuit of Happiness

Government Schools: The Failed Experiment

Come See the Samurai

Iraqi Ecstasy

The End of the World: 2029

Stranger in the Night

Love Hurts

Montana to The Beast: “Up Yours!”

Gonzo Goes Bye-Bye

Dell Hell

Remote Viewing that Thing in the Closet

Dying with Ecstasy

Quote of the day: Social(ist) (in)Security

Social Security Reform: A Free-Market Alternative

Appliantology for January 2005

Who Wants to be a Millionaire?

2 Replies

Finally, an opportunity has come along for me to make some serious cash. Johnson Minsa, a banker in Ghana, contacted me personally (he even knew my name!) to help him get some cash out of the country. I just emailed my bank account information to Mr. Minsa and now I’m just waiting for my money train to come in. Ah, yes, I can see it now: sipping margaritas on a pristine beach in Costa Rica, driving a brand new Chevy pickup truck, lounging at the beach house in Malibu, eating Big Macs in gay Paree… oui, oui! I’m tired of scratching out a living repairing appliances: rolling around on scummy kitchen floors reaching through piles of rat turds to change out a valve on a gas range; fishing out putrid rotten mouse carcasses from dishwasher insulation. No more! As soon as that Big Green hits my account, I’m outta here. Later, suckers!

johnson minsa johnsonminsa@yahoo.com wrote:

Dear,Repair

My name is Mr johnson minsa, an auditor with the Bank
of Ghana. Your contact was secured through the
internet,i am proposing to you a deal that will no
doubt be of great benefit to both of us.

During one of our auditing sessions of banks under our
supervision, i came accross this large sum of
money(USD17.5million) in a dormant account belonging
to a foreigner, who on further enquiries i learnt
died in a plane crash in the United States in
September 2001. This account has remained inactive
since then, as there has not been any claim till date.

With my wealth of experience and contacts in the
banking industry, i am capable of transfering this
funds by Swift into any account of your choice
abroad,and we am willing to share 50 percent of the
total sum transfered.

This transaction will go through the legal system, and
we will ensure that we meet all banking rules and
regulations of Ghana and your country.Please let me
know if this offer is acceptable to you,so we can
proceed without further delay. Awaiting your reply
with great anticipation.

Kind Regards
johnson minsa,

Mailbag: Kenmore Front-load Washer Stinks

11 Replies

kenmore front-loading wrote:

I have a Kenmore front-loading washer I purchased in 2001. About two months ago
we started noticing brown and black stains on the clothes. Upon further
inspection, the boot around the door was disgusting so I replaced it. Two loads later,
same issue, staining on the clothes that will not come out! I talked to another
technician and to some one at Proctor and Gamble (we use Tide He) and they both
said that there is a mold issue that lives around the outside tub. Problem
occurs because we don’t use enough hot water washes and/or bleach. This is both
true. We mostly use warm water and rarely use bleach. When we do use bleach we use
the color bleach. We tried using a hot wash with vinegar and also a hot wash
with bleach, both without clothes. Seemed to work but three weeks later we’ve got
the stains again! What is going on, Sensei? I have never seen this problem
before, ever. ?????

_______________________________
Message sent from IP: 68.189.93.14

Fun fact to know and tell: we’ve had this same washer (Gibson brand, same manufacturer, Frigidaire) for seven years and have never had a mold or smell problem of any kind. In fact, this washer has been trouble-free and we’re a family of five, running it every day, sometimes three times in a day. No problems. Zero, zip, nada. We also leave the door wide open between uses so the washer can dry out.

Now, learn some of the Samurai’s personal hygienic practices. I always use bleach on my skivvies (boxer shorts and white undershirts). It’s a habit left over from my Navy days. If you’re not bleaching your skivvies, you’re wearing poopie germs on all your clothes and you are a dirty man. Remind me never to shake your hand if I ever meet you.

Here, now, I present Samurai’s 14th Law of Appliance Repair: Nothing kills like chlorine.

Bleach: it’s what’s for dinner.

Whirlpool Announces Dishwasher Recall

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Ok, now it’s Whirlpool’s turn for a recall…

WASHINGTON, D.C. – The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission announces the following recall in voluntary cooperation with the firm below.
Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed.

Name of product: Whirlpool(r) and Kenmore(r) brand dishwashers

Units: About 162,000

Manufacturer: Whirlpool Corporation, of Benton Harbor, Mich.

Hazard: An electrical defect within the dishwashers’ wash motor wiring poses a risk of the motor overheating and possibly catching fire.

Incidents/Injuries: Whirlpool Corporation has received three reports of overheated wash motors. There are no reports of personal injury or property damage.

Description: The recalled products are Whirlpool(r) brand and Kenmore(r) brand (made by Whirlpool Corporation) under-the-counter, plastic tall tub dishwashers. The dishwashers come with black, white, biscuit, or stainless front panels. They have the following model and serial numbers located inside the tub on a tag near the left side of the door opening:

Brand: Whirlpool(r)

Product: Under-the-counter plastic tall tub dishwashers

Model Number Begins With: DU1, DUL, GU1, GU2, GU6

Serial Number Range: FR2200000 to FR2499999

Brand: Kenmore(r)

Product: Under-the-counter plastic tall tub dishwashers 665.143

Model Number Begins With: 665.160, 665.163, 665.170, 665.173

Serial Number Range: FR2200000 to FR4599999

Sold at: Department and appliance stores and through homebuilders nationwide from June 2004 through January 2005 for between $350 and $600.

Manufactured in: The dishwashers were manufactured in Findlay, Ohio, and the motors were manufactured in China.

Remedy: Consumers with one of these dishwashers should immediately stop using it, disconnect the electric supply by shutting off the fuse or circuit breaker controlling it, and inform all users of the dishwasher not to use it due to the risk of fire. Call Whirlpool Corporation to schedule a free, in-home repair. Please have the serial number and model number of the dishwasher available for the call. Please do not return
the dishwasher to the retailer where it was purchased, as retailers are not prepared to take them back. If you own a Whirlpool(r) brand and Kenmore(r) brand under-the-counter plastic tall tub dishwasher and have had service on your wash motor between August 2004 and January 2005,
please call Whirlpool Corporation to determine if your unit is included in this recall and to schedule a free, in-home inspection.

Consumer Contact: Call Whirlpool Corporation toll free at (866) 769-7260 anytime, or go to the firm’s Web site at repair.whirlpool.com

To learn more about your dishwasher, or to order parts, click here.

Appliance Repair Revelation, Dishwasher Leaves Dishes Dirty

1 Reply

appliance tip of the day archive

click here to see an interactive breakdown diagram of a dishwasher

So, your dishwasher is leaving gookus and slime all over your dishes? Or maybe it seems like it’s just not cleaning as good as it used to. Before you run off and buy a new dishwasher and go through the hassle and expense of having it installed (or installing it yourself), take a minute and read this article because the chances are pretty good that it’s a simple problem with an easy and inexpensive fix. I know, I know, I’m always telling you to read something. But, unfortunately, the written word is the most efficient medium for transmitting information on the internet. Ok, hang on for another episode of literary excellence in appliance repair.

Start with the simple checks listed below. Notice that the first item is to check the water fill level– this is the most common cause for poor cleaning in your dishwasher.

  • Check water level when the fill cycle has completed. Should be just under the heating element. If not, you may need to replace the water inlet valve.
  • Check the water temperature. Should be 125 to 140°F.
  • Check pump re-circulation. Listen: does it sound like it’s spraying the water around with enough pressure?
  • Check the spray arm and pump cover for splits or leaks.
  • Check to make sure dishwasher is draining after each cycle. There should only be a little water in the bottom of the tub.
  • Make sure the dishes are loaded properly, or dishwasher is not overloaded.
  • Possibly try a different detergent. Some liquid-gels will bubble and a pump cannot pump bubbles. Make sure the detergent is fresh.

To check your dishwasher fill level, start it up using the cycle you normally use. Listen to the sounds: the first sound will probably be the dishwasher doing an initial pumpout. Then that will stop and the dishwasher will start filling. Lots of times, you can hear the water running. Give it a minute or two to fill. When it’s done filling, the spray cycle will start. Open the door at this point and check the water level. There should be enough water in the tub to cover the bottom floor of the dishwasher. On many models, the water should just come up to the heating element. If there isn’t enough water, you will have cleaning problems, guaranteed.

The most common cause for insufficient water fill is the water inlet valve, like this one showen here. Replace it. Don’t freak out; this is a repair anyone can do with just a few basic tools. This repair rates two mugs on the SUDS-o-meter. And I have a folder full of email from people who considered themselves mechanically impaired who have successfully completed this and other much more difficult repairs with a little help from Fixitnow.com. Hey, that’s what Samurai Appliance Repair Man is all about: helping you discover your inner Samurai.

Here’s how to replace your dishwasher’s water inlet valve:

1. Get your dishwasher’s model number and enter it here to find and order the exact water inlet valve you need. Water inlet valves have different flow rates so be sure to get the right one for your machine.

2. If your new valve comes with any instructions, read ’em! If you’re confused about something, ask me.

3. Turn off the water supply to the dishwasher. The shut off valve is usually under the kitchen sink or in the basement or crawlspace near the location of the dishwasher.

4. Remove the dishwasher’s kickplates. The kickplates are usually secured with two to four screws at the upper and lower corners. Several examples are shown in the dishwasher section of the Appliantology Group.

5. Locate the water inlet valve, usually near the front of the dishwasher. You’ll see two terminals on the valve with wires attached to them, a water supply line (usually copper tubing) from the house, and a rubber or plastic water feed tube going to the dishwasher.

6. Disconnect the water supply line from the valve by removing the brass compression nut holding it in place.

7. The water supply line is connected to a brass fitting on the valve, usually a 90 degree elbow fittting. Remove this fitting. If you can’t get it out of the valve, go to the hardware store and buy another one for $0.78.

8. Remove the screws holding the valve to the dishwasher frame.

9. Remove the wires from the valve by grasping the metal terminal with needle nose pliers and pulling, working it back and forth if you need to. Do not pull on the wires themselves because you could detach them from the terminals.

10. Remove the water feed tube from the valve. You’ll see a small hose clamp that you’ll remove with a pair of pliers.

11. Reinstall the old brass fitting for the water supply line onto the new valve. Use Teflon tape around the threads to make a water-tight connection.

12. Ok, now just install the new valve in the reverse order of the way you removed it.

13. Turn on the dishwasher water supply and check for leaks.

14. Reinstall the kickplates, turn on the power, and run the dishwasher.

15. Pop a cold one and give yourself a pat on the back. Good job!

If you do end up buying a new dishwasher, this installation kit will make the job easier.

Recommended reading:

grasshoppers sitting with the master doing a special gas conversion

To learn more about your dishwasher, or to order parts, click here.

Dying with Ecstasy

1 Reply

The theraputic effect of the drug ecstasy (MDMA) is in the news again. I posted previously about how ecstasy is being used to help Iraq War veterans deal with post-traumatic stress disorder. The Bush Administration had no objections. Now, Harvard is researching the use of ecstasy to ease the anxiety of terminal cancer patients facing imminent death. But the Bush Administration objects to this research because it might “destigmatize a dangerous substance.” Hey, don’t blame me– I voted Libertarian.

Harvard researchers are preparing for the first time in three
decades to conduct human experiments using a psychedelic drug, a
study that would seek to harness the mind-altering effects of the
drug ecstasy to help ease the crushing psychic burdens faced by dying
cancer patients. In the experiment, 12 terminal cancer patients would
be given MDMA, the active ingredient in ecstasy, to determine whether
the drug helps alleviate their anxiety. The experiment seeks to
establish a medical use for a drug whose abuse has been on the rise
among some young people, who use it recreationally for its euphoric
effects. A small but growing group of scientists contends the drug,
administered in a controlled medical setting, can improve mental and
emotional health. But critics, including some in the Bush
administration, said the experiment may destigmatize a dangerous
substance. [read more]

Remote Viewing that Thing in the Closet

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Eric Wojcik wrote:

Just bought a house; have no idea what I’m doing; does that white thing in the closet heat water? What if it’s temperamental? How do I take control, oh Samurai Master?

_______________________________

Message sent from IP: 65.8.122.118

Since you didn’t include a photo of the item in question, I used a proprietary technology developed here at Samurai Labs International to remotely view the contents of your closet. We were able to capture this image. You appear to be in immediate danger; hop on your tricycle and evacuate now!

Samurai Labs International: blurring the line between dreams and reality.

Dell Hell

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Has the once-venerable Dell slid into the slime pit or is this just another case of sour-grapes consumers using the lawsuit lottery to get rich quick?

Two Dell customers in California have sued the computer company in a
class action suit. The plaintiffs allege that Dell didn’t deliver the
systems promised, and the suit also names CIT Bank, which handles
credit agreements for Dell Financing, as well as Dell Financing
itself. One plaintiff alleges that a laptop advertised for $599 and
an $89 printer, cost her over $1,300. Another claims that Dell
supplied two PCs of an inferior specification to that ordered. One of
the two law firms representing the plaintiffs said it has
investigated over a hundred complaints since August. The suit cites
violation of two California state laws, the Consumer Legal Remedies
Act and the Unruh Act. Law firms Lerach Coughlin Stoia Geller Rudman
& Robbins in San Diego, and Jeffrey Keller in San Francisco will
handle the litigation. Dell declined to comment. [read more]

How to Know that a Range ERC is Bad

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F1 on a Magic Chef Range

Emily wrote:

Regarding the F1 Error Code on the Magic Chef Gas Range. I got this error
code, did my online research and found that it was either the touch membrane or the
ERC (I think in my case they cannot be disconnected from each other). I did
the test and based on the results, concluded that the ERC was bad. So I ordered
a $140 new ERC, installed it, and lo and behold — it wasn’t the ERC. I did
more reading and based on your message from Jeff about his F1 error code on his
Magic Chef, I decided to try the sensor ($40). It turned out to be the sensor
after all. I just wonder why all the tables that show error codes for Magic
Chef / Maytag gas ranges don’t say that F1 can also be due to a bad sensor. Is
there a way to give this feedback to Maytag so they will consider it and modify
their chart? I am out $140 extra because of this.

Thanks

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Ahh, Grasshoppah, the arcane art of deciphering range error codes is one that has eluded even experienced Appliantologists. I have even heard rumors that appliance manufacturers have competitions amongst themselves to see who can come up with the most diverse and confusing array of range fault codes. But let me address one important point you raised in your plaintive plea for wisdom: replacing parts that turn out to be good.

In most cases, simple tests can be performed to positively show a part is bad. However, in the case of oven ERCs, this may not be so easy. Unless I have the actual tech sheet which definitively tells me what the error codes are, I must sometimes summon my awesome powers of deduction to discern whether or not the ERC is bad. In most cases, you can accomplish this by testing three things:

If those check out, then you can conclude the problem is either in the touchpad or the ERC board itself. In some cases, as in your range, the ERC and touchpad are a single unit; in other models, they can be replaced separately.

What’s that you say: all this sounds too complicated for you? There, there, my leetle Grasshopper, the Samurai has just what you need. Did you know that if you buy your appliance parts from my parts partner that you can return any part for any reason? Yes, and this includes electronic boards that you’ve already installed. Oui, Papa! So, go crazy and buy all the parts you think you’ll need and then simply return the ones you don’t for a refund. It gives a whole new justification for shotgun parts changing, don’t you think?