There have been problems with the motor wire harness connector on these washers. The problems are either a loose or bent terminal in the molex connector.

Unplug the connector and tug on each wire. If a wire comes loose from the plug, bend the locking tab up. If a locking tab is not properly seated in the plug connector, the terminals will not fully engage as the connector is plugged into the motor.

Another manifestation of this problem is that one of the terminals may be bent. Inspect the terminals on the motor side of the connector. Straighten any bent terminals if they exist. Recheck the harness side of the terminal block if any bent terminals are found. Bent terminals can indicate a problem with the locking tab inside the plug.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

This is the real deal written by the manufacturer of this washer, not some wannabe-but-ain’t-got-the-balls third party. With over 60 pages of detailed technical information, photographs, diagrams, illustrations, and, yes, schematics, you’ll be able to easily do any repair on your Calypso washer using this manual. It’s written in a clear, easy-to-understand style so that even if you’re a technical neophyte, you can easily handle even the most complex repairs on this washer. All this for less than 20 bucks! Come git you one!

What? You thought I’d like, have one posted here for free? Hello? Ok, Genius, tell me how I’m supposed to buy enough groceries to feed three kids, a dog, and two cats by just giving shi’it away? 🙁

Hey, nolo contendre, compadre… hehe, that’s a little Latin lingo there fer ya, Gunga Din… because he is merciful and gracious, longsuffering, and abundant in goodness and truth, keeping mercy for thousands, forgiving iniquity and transgression and sin, the Samurai graciously accepts your apology; how ’bout you just make a generous love-offering to my flavorite charity and I’ll let you borrow my copy. Domo arigato, M’vato.

This can be the muthah of all appliance repairs, easily rating six mugs on the world-famous SUDs-o-meter. Before you get started, make sure you have at least a six-pack of your most flavorite fermented grain beverage. And read this topic in the repair forum for some of the finer points on technique.

Before you start having an anxiety attack thinking this is the famous control board failure or running elaborate tests to monitor motor function, let’s check some simple things, like water supply to the washer and the water fill during the rinse cycle.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Starting to see these fault codes pop up in these otherwise fine machines. The F/11 code is just a generic code generated when there’s a communications error between the two main control boards in the washer. These two boards are the Motor Control Unit (MCU) and the Central Control Unit (CCU).

A common problem is the wiring harness jiggling loose; remove and reseat it and that usually fixes it. If not, then you’re looking at spending some money on control boards. Yes, I said boards, plural. The really sucky part is that there’s no way to definitively and conclusively prove which board, the MCU or the CCU, is at fault so, unfortunately, that only leaves the parts changing monkey method: replace both boards 🙁 (in violation of Samurai’s Ichiban Law of Appliance Repair, I might add… before you do. ;))

But, on a brighter note, the electronics are covered under warranty for 24 months. If your machine is older that this, then you’ll need to shell out some shekels.

The F/H code means the unit isn’t detecting water fill at the flowmeter. The flowmeter sits just in front of the inlet valve and is attached via a hose, and off to the left of the CCU. Part link to the flow meter==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Flowmeter/1381535?modelNumber=GHW9250MW2

If your washer is filling ok, check the wiring from the flow meter to the control board; I’ve seen this harness jiggle loose and cause problems.

For more detailed info, the service manual for this washer is excellent.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

The shocks are removed by lifting the plastic locking tabs, grabbing hold of the upper portion of the shock and twisting CCW very hard 1/4 turn. Slide the shocks back together and reinstall the opposite way.

Sometimes, the shock can be tighter than a flea’s azz to turn and remove. In these cases, I’ll use a pair of channel locks to remove them. Here’s a fine point of technique: set the jaw space on the pliers to the same width as the shock. Grab the shock near the top where it meets the outer tub. Don’t squeeze the shock with the channel lock pliers because you’ll deform it and then you’ll be one pissed off cracker ‘cuz you’ll have to buy a whole new shock. Just hold the shock tight enough so that you can use the pliers as a handle to turn it.

In case you do screw up the shocks or if they’re already broken, you can buy replacement shocks here. For even more information, get the repair manual.

These washers have been around long enough that we’re starting to see drum bearing and seal failures. Maytag has come out with a reasonably-priced bearing and seal replacement kit.

While you’ve got it torn down, might as well replace the belt.

Intimidated by this job? There, there, my leetle grasshopper, not to worry– the Maytag Neptune washer service manual is excellent and will hold your hand throughout this entire ordeal. Come git you one.

Rear Bearing Tech Bulletin