Monthly Archives: April 2006

GE Profile Refrigerator (Includes the Arctica and Eterna Models) Freezing Food in the Beer Compartment

Models Affected:

All 23/25/27 and 29 cubic foot electronic side-by-side refrigerator units with plastic liners manufactured in 2001 or later. This includes all Profile (Arctica and Eterna… dontcha just love the vacuous names? I guess the marketing boobs rejected Mediocra and Pathetica) models.

Consumer Issues:

Freezing in the vegetable (middle) pan or the CustomCool (bottom) pan, frozen water tank or frozen water filter.

Freezing in the pans has caused the following customer rectal cramps:

  • Beer freezes in middle pan.
  • Beer freezes in bottom pan.

A frozen water tank caused the following customer headaches:

  • Will not dispense water.
  • Water dispenses at a slow rate.
  • Water dispenses intermittently.

A frozen water filter has caused the following customer annoyances:

  • Will not dispense water.
  • Water dispenses v e r y s l o w l y.
  • Water dispenses intermittently or when it damn well feels like it.
  • No ice.
  • Retarded ice production rate.
  • Filter freezing and cracking.

What the Hell is Causing this Freezing Problem?

You mean besides the fact that it’s GE crap? Ok, well, freezing in the pans, a frozen water tank or a frozen water filter are all caused by excessive airflow from the vents in the tower.

Recommended Repair:

To eliminate these freezing issues, buy and install the veg pan temperature reduction kit. Follow the instructions included with the kit.

Note: Replacing the motherboard will do nothing to correct the freezing problems in these areas of the refrigerator.

Maytag Neptune MAH8700 and MAH6700: “E3” or “dc” Error Codes

There have been problems with the motor wire harness connector on these washers. The problems are either a loose or bent terminal in the molex connector.

Unplug the connector and tug on each wire. If a wire comes loose from the plug, bend the locking tab up. If a locking tab is not properly seated in the plug connector, the terminals will not fully engage as the connector is plugged into the motor.

Another manifestation of this problem is that one of the terminals may be bent. Inspect the terminals on the motor side of the connector. Straighten any bent terminals if they exist. Recheck the harness side of the terminal block if any bent terminals are found. Bent terminals can indicate a problem with the locking tab inside the plug.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Schematic for a Whirlpool / Kenmore Calypso Washer

Calypso washer repair manual--come git you one!This is the real deal written by the manufacturer of this washer, not some wannabe-but-ain’t-got-the-balls third party. With over 60 pages of detailed technical information, photographs, diagrams, illustrations, and, yes, schematics, you’ll be able to easily do any repair on your Calypso washer using this manual. It’s written in a clear, easy-to-understand style so that even if you’re a technical neophyte, you can easily handle even the most complex repairs on this washer. All this for less than 20 bucks! Come git you one!

What? You thought I’d like, have one posted here for free? Hello? Ok, Genius, tell me how I’m supposed to buy enough groceries to feed three kids, a dog, and two cats by just giving shi’it away? 🙁

Hey, nolo contendre, compadre… hehe, that’s a little Latin lingo there fer ya, Gunga Din… because he is merciful and gracious, longsuffering, and abundant in goodness and truth, keeping mercy for thousands, forgiving iniquity and transgression and sin, the Samurai graciously accepts your apology; how ’bout you just make a generous love-offering to my flavorite charity and I’ll let you borrow my copy. Domo arigato, M’vato.

Appliance Repair Radio: How Much is a New One?

listen to our podcast or we'll tell the IRS that you peed in their coffeeSo, Old Faithful has shat the bed and you’re thinking about hauling it to the landfill and replacing it with one of those sexy, glitzy appliances you saw in the Sunday paper? And, amazingly, it’s the same price that you paid for Old Faithful 20 years ago! Hmmm, how does that work?

Well, Bubba, you need to listen to this podcast episode before you go do something you might regret!

Listen to this episode | Podcast homepage | Podcast RSS feed

GE Arctica Refrigerator: Broken Air Damper and Everything’s Freezing in the Beer Compartment!

This affects all 2001 models with “M” as the eighth letter in the model, e.g., PSS25SGM, and those units with serial date code LA4, MA4, RA4, SA4, TA4, VA4, ZA4 & AD4.

When the damper door mechanism breaks (usually in the wide-azz open position), the temperature control can no longer regulate the amount of cold air blowing in from the freezer. So, you end up with frozen beer slushy all over the beer compartment.

To verify that the damper door is broken, remove the light shield and rear light bulb from the top of the refrigerator. Enter the factory diagnostic mode by pushing all four temperature control buttons at the same time and start the damper motor test: set the freezer control to 1 (FZ 1) and fresh food control to 0 (FF 0) . Press any other button, such as Custom Cool or Filter Reset to start the damper test cycle. Now, shine a flashlight through right hand side opening of the light assembly so you can see the movement of damper door. If’n it don’t move, well, come git you a new and improved (ha!) damper door kit.

Oh, by the way: to exit test mode, do FZ 1 and FF 6.

If damper door assembly is FUBAR and you need to replace it, pull the top two shelves out about two inches. Then pull the rear tower assembly slightly forward with both hand and move it left and the right to expose the two screws that secure the duct assembly. Also, remove both screws that secure the duct to the ceiling. The rest is plug n’ chug.

Awwite, Hoss, go git ’em.

To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.

Excessive Compressor Failures in Frigidaire / Kenmore Refrigerators

If your Kenmore model number is a 253.xxxxxxx, then it was built for Kenmore by Frigidaire. Latest survey results from the field show that these compressors are having a failure rate of 92.76%. After these compressors are replaced in the field (usually as a warranty repair), they run fine for years. The theory is that the Frigidaire plant that makes these refrigerators is having a contamination issue that they have not been able to locate yet. Other manufacturers are using these same compressors with nowhere near the failure rate Frigidaire is having.

To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.

Unlocking the Control Lock on Certain Electrolux Washers and Dryers

MODELS affected:


BLTF2940ES, BTF2140ES, FTF2140ES, FWFB9200ES, GLTF2940ES, LTF2140ES and LTF2940ES


BCEQ2152ES, BEQ1442ES, FE/GQ1442ES. FEQ1442CES, FEQ2152ES, GCE/GQ2152ES, GLE/GQ2152ES, GLE/GQ1442ES and GLE/GQ2152ES.

You know this problem: you turn the selector knob or press any button and get an obnoxious flashy beepy thing in the display. Some models will even taunt you with an “Err” in the display.

I know many of you have been ripping your hair out over this one– I’ve been getting lots of disgusting photos of clumps of hair attached to bloody chunks of scalp. So, I figgered I better post the solution to this little annoyance. This is super easy: The problem is that somehow the control lock has been enabled. “LOC” is displayed on digital displays and the control lock status light is lit. To unlock the control, press the “Options” and “Select” buttons simultaneously. The control lock status light will no longer be lit and you can let your hair grow back!

Maytag Neptune Washer Stops During the Wash Cycle and Must be Manually Restarted

Before you start having an anxiety attack thinking this is the famous control board failure or running elaborate tests to monitor motor function, let’s check some simple things, like water supply to the washer and the water fill during the rinse cycle.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Whirlpool Duet / Kenmore HE3/4 Washer: F11 and FH Fault Codes

Starting to see these fault codes pop up in these otherwise fine machines. The F/11 code is just a generic code generated when there’s a communications error between the two main control boards in the washer. These two boards are the Motor Control Unit (MCU) and the Central Control Unit (CCU).

A common problem is the wiring harness jiggling loose; remove and reseat it and that usually fixes it. If not, then you’re looking at spending some money on control boards. Yes, I said boards, plural. The really sucky part is that there’s no way to definitively and conclusively prove which board, the MCU or the CCU, is at fault so, unfortunately, that only leaves the parts changing monkey method: replace both boards 🙁 (in violation of Samurai’s Ichiban Law of Appliance Repair, I might add… before you do. ;))

But, on a brighter note, the electronics are covered under warranty for 24 months. If your machine is older that this, then you’ll need to shell out some shekels.

The F/H code means the unit isn’t detecting water fill at the flowmeter. The flowmeter sits just in front of the inlet valve and is attached via a hose, and off to the left of the CCU. Part link to the flow meter==>

If your washer is filling ok, check the wiring from the flow meter to the control board; I’ve seen this harness jiggle loose and cause problems.

For more detailed info, the service manual for this washer is excellent.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Appliance Repair Radio Update

listen to our podcast or we'll tell all your friends that you peed in their gardens.We’re on a roll! Yet another all listener email episode. In this thriller…

Steve’s three year old Amana refrigerator is freezing stuff in the crisper drawer and his water dispenser quit working. Is there a connection? Bonus: link to the evaporator fan upgrade kit discussed in this episode.

Amy gunked up her Frigidaire front loading washer by washing frilly cotton rugs (never a good idea, by the way). Now, the washer won’t do high speed spin. WTF?

Listen to this episode | Podcast homepage | Podcast RSS feed

Removing/Replacing the Shock Absorbers in Kenmore Elite HE3/4 and Whirlpool Duet Washers

The shocks are removed by lifting the plastic locking tabs, grabbing hold of the upper portion of the shock and twisting CCW very hard 1/4 turn. Slide the shocks back together and reinstall the opposite way.

Sometimes, the shock can be tighter than a flea’s azz to turn and remove. In these cases, I’ll use a pair of channel locks to remove them. Here’s a fine point of technique: set the jaw space on the pliers to the same width as the shock. Grab the shock near the top where it meets the outer tub. Don’t squeeze the shock with the channel lock pliers because you’ll deform it and then you’ll be one pissed off cracker ‘cuz you’ll have to buy a whole new shock. Just hold the shock tight enough so that you can use the pliers as a handle to turn it.

In case you do screw up the shocks or if they’re already broken, you can buy replacement shocks here. For even more information, get the repair manual.

Maytag Neptune Washer Drum Bearing and Seal Replacement Kit

These washers have been around long enough that we’re starting to see drum bearing and seal failures. Maytag has come out with a reasonably-priced bearing and seal replacement kit.

While you’ve got it torn down, might as well replace the belt.

Intimidated by this job? There, there, my leetle grasshopper, not to worry– the Maytag Neptune washer service manual is excellent and will hold your hand throughout this entire ordeal. Come git you one.

Rear Bearing Tech Bulletin