Author Archives: Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Why is the Cabinet Around My Refrigerator Door Very Warm or Hot?

Many refrigerators– most side-by-side models and some top-and-bottom models– use an extra run in the sealed system tubing that runs around the perimeter of one of the doors or in that cabinet strip (called the mullion) between the freezer and fresh food compartments. The extra tubing is called the yoder loop and it’s there to keep condensation and the resulting slimy gookus from accumulating on the cabinet and door gasket. You can see the yoder loops in both types of refrigerators in these two diagrams:

yoder loop in a top mount refrigerator yoder loop in a side by side refrigerator
(click for larger view)

Legend has it that the yoder loop was invented by the renowned Amish refrigeration engineer, Jakob Yoder, though this is disputed by some.

The warm refrigeration tubing of the yoder loop running behind the cabinet surface keeps things warm enough that the condensation evaporates, keeping things clean and dry. The mullion should feel warm to the touch. But sometimes that cabinet area may feel unusually warm or even hot. If this happens, it’s usually an early warning that there’s a problem with the condenser area. The condenser is the hot, dusty part of the refrigerator that’s located underneath on refrigerators with a condenser fan (called forced-air condensers) or it’s in the very back on the refrigerator cabinet on units without a condenser fan (called natural convection condensers).

The condenser’s job is to get rid of all that heat that the compressor makes while it’s running and from inside the refrigerated space. If it can’t do that, then everything starts warming up. All that extra heat has to go somewhere and the yoder loop is gonna get part of it. The temperatures inside the box will start eventually start rising, too.

A common problem with forced-air condensers is that they get so clogged up with dog hair and dust bunnies that air can’t move over it and cool it off– see this page for refrigerator tuneup tips. Or the condenser fan motor may be burned out.

The most common problem with natural convection condensers is that they’re installed in a cabinet that doesn’t have enough of a gap on the sides and top of the cabinet to allow air to circulate. You may be able to get by with this with cooler ambient temperatures but in the heat of summer in an unairconditioned house, well, hope you like warm beer!

To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.

Get Your LG Appliance Parts Right Here at Your Local Online Appliance Repair Shop

What does “local” mean anymore in this age of the Internet? I mean, can you get any more local than right here on your computer screen? I know we look big time an’ all, but we’re a mom & pop (literally!) operation, too. Instead of a brick n’ mortar repair shop, we’re your online DIY appliance repair shop; we’re every bit (pardon the pun) as real and we’re as close as your compooter screen. How’s that for local?

Fun Fact to Know and Tell: The “local” appliance repair shop in your town or city cannot buy LG appliance parts directly from their parts dealer like they do for other appliance brands; they have to buy them directly from LG.

What does this mean for you? It means you’re gonna pay a higher price and wait longer to get LG parts if buy them from your “local” parts house.

LG.jpgBut the Samurai has the solution: buy your LG parts right here through Fixitnow.com– your local online appliance repair place– you’ll save mucho dinero and you’ll get your parts delivered lickety-split. Just use the handy links below:

LG Appliance Parts Links

Dishwashers
Dryers
Ice Makers
Refrigerators
Microwave Ovens
Ovens/Ranges/Stoves
Refrigerators
Washers

Whirlpool Duet Steam Washer – F35 Error Code

Example model numbers affected: WFW9550WW, WFW9600TA

Most common cause for the F35 error code: Using non-HE detergent. Detergent slime builds up in the hose, eventually getting into the analog pressure switch and killing it.

Corrective action: Replace the Analog Pressure Switch. Remove the top panel of washer, the switch is mounted on the right-hand side panel, item 20 in this diagram.

analog pressure switch
(click it to git it)

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Troubleshooting the Muthaboard in GE Profile Arctica Side-by-Side Refrigerators with the CustomCool™ Feature

The CustomCool is a gimmicky marketing name that GE came up with for what is basically a souped-up crisper drawer in the refrigerator. The drawer has been outfitted with a system of dampers, a fan, a temperature thermistor and a heater. Depending on the function selected on the CustomCool settings in the controls at the top of the refrigerator, a combination of these components can be used to theoretically chill items quickly, thaw items or hold the drawer pan at a specific temperature.

CustomCool™ should not be confused with TurboCool™, which is yet another gimmicky marketing name for a different feature of dubious value in the some GE refrigerators.

I’ve previously posted troubleshooting flowcharts for GE refrigerators and a generic warm refrigerator troubleshooting flowchart. This flowchart is a little different– it’s for troubleshooting the muthaboard in GE Profile Arctica refrigerators with the CustomCool™ feature. You can download it here:

GE Profile Arctica Refrigerator Main Board Troubleshooting Flow Chart (370 kb, PDF file)

As a result of your troubleshooting using the flowchart that I’ve graciously and generously provided above, you’ll probably find one of the components in this handy list needs to be replaced. I’ve included links to more information on each item. And you can conveniently buy them right here– just click the pictures to get ’em. Your purchase is what helps keep this site going so if you like what I do here, please buy your appliance parts through my links. Domo!

Muthaboard

GE refrigerator muthaboard
(click it to git it)

FAQs for Replacing the Motherboard in a GE Refrigerator

Thermistors

GE refrigerator temperature sensor (thermistor)
(click it to git it)

Upgraded Thermistors in GE Refrigerators

Damper Assembly

GE Refrigerator air inlet cover/damper kit with fan motor. Damper and fan assembly has been updated to prevent freezing in the refrigerator.
(click it to git it)

GE Arctica Refrigerator: Broken Air Damper and Everything’s Freezing in the Beer Compartment!

Testing the Damper Door in a GE Profile Arctica Refrigerator

How to Remove the Fresh Food Air Damper in the GE Arctica Pro Side-by-Side GSS23-GSS25-GSS27-PSS23-PSS27-PSS29-PSSS25 Refrigerator

GE Side by Side Refrigerator Freezing the Beer

Evaporator Fan

GE refrigerator evaporator fan
(click it to git it)

How to Test the Evaporator Fan Motor in a GE Profile Refrigerator

How to Replace the Evaporator Fan and Motherboard in a GE Arctica Refrigerator

Defrost Heater

GE refrigerator defrost heater assembly
(click it to git it)

The Samurai Test for the Defrost Circuit in a GE Refrigerator with a Muthaboard… and the Quick Fix

To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.

KitchenAid / Kenmore Dishdrawers: Differences and Repair Manuals

KitchenAid (a Whirlpool brand) has been offering the popular dishdrawer-style dishwasher for several years now. They’re also sold under the Kenmore label. Prior to 2008, Fisher-Paykel manufactured the dishdrawers for KitchenAid; since 2008, KitchenAid has been sourcing them from Fulgor. IMHO, the Fulgor-built units (since 2008) are a much better design and more robust.

From the outside and from a user’s standpoint, both units appear very similar. But the units have profound differences in construction and design that affect troubleshooting, diagnosis, tear-down, and repair. So, if you’re working on one of these, it’s important to have the correct manual. Here’s how to tell the difference using the KitchenAid model number and links to the respective repair manuals:

– KUDD01 models [tech document KAD-9] are sourced from Fisher-Paykel
– KUDD03 models [tech document KAD-10 for “2008”] are sourced from Fulgor

A quick way to tell a difference between the two manufacturer sources without taking apart anything is by the wash arm. On the Fisher-Paykel-sourced units, the wash arm will lift right off without having to unscrew anything. On the Fulgor-sourced units, you’ll have to unscrew and remove a wash arm cap.

KitchenAid Dishdrawers
(click for larger view)

To learn more about your dishwasher, or to order parts, click here.

GE Harmony Dryer Stopped Blowing Air – Bad Blower Motor or Inverter Board?

dmurry wrote:

I have the DPGT750EC1PL, 6 yrs old, and it stopped blowing (and therefore, drying). I ran the diags and it said low blower RPM and I poked around on the internet and figured I needed a blower motor. So I replaced that and it worked and we’ve run a few loads thru no problem. Then I get the call today from my wife…. not drying, not blowing. Bummer. Does that mean I need to replace the inverter board? I saw a post from a guy somewhere that replaced the board and still had a problem. How can I be sure what the problem is? Also, this seems to be a pretty common problem with these dryers, based on my casual glance across the internet. Do I have a clunker? I still consider 6 yrs old pretty “new”, or at least I didn’t plan on dryer replacement even being on the radar until the 10 year mark.

Not to make this too long, but we’ve had another problem for 1+ year. The drum sometimes doesn’t turn. We give it a spin by hand and close the door real quick and it works. In replacing the blower, I checked the belt and it seems perfectly fine so I don’t suspect a worn belt. I did clean out the cr*p around the dryer support wheels and I’m sure that helped but the problem still persists.

Your help GREATLY appreciated!!

The antithetically-named GE Harmony dryer is a great disrupter of household harmony. They’re more convoluted than most dryers because they use fluky electronics for things like running the blower motor instead having the blower directly coupled to the drive motor. This is one those Frankenstein designs that the GE engineers should have let quietly die on the drawing board. But, to our horror, IT’S ALIVE!

Here’s an inside look at its Franken-guts:

inside the ge harmony gas dryer-- click for larger view

(click for larger view)

The blower motor is a DC, variable speed motor that operates at different speeds depending on air temperature and venting back pressure. If the blower is running below 1000 rpm, the dryer control turns the heater off.

Resistance of the motor windings can be measured at the 10-pin connector on the inverter board or at the motor; gory details and more fun facts to know and tell in the troubleshooting cheat sheet below:

For your convenience, the part link for the blower motor is included below, should your troubleshooting confirm that it’s bad:

blower motor, GE harmony dryer
(click it to git it)

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.