This dryer is a step down from the original design that had the lint filter in the top panel– not nearly as rugged or durable as it’s older brother. But still lots of these dryers out there. Here’s how to take ’em apart when you inevitably have to work on them:

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

CHuckH wrote:

I have a Maytag Perfroma 2300 Series electric dryer. Last night it stopped working. The dryer will not turn on in any setting. Where do I start troubleshooting so that I know what part(s) I may need to replace. I have already checked the house circuit breaker and there is no issue there. Thanks for the help! CHuck

The first step in any appliance no-operation condition is to verify the power supply. In the case of an electric dryer, that means 240vac from L1 to L2 and 120vac from each L1 and L2 to neutral. This is done at the back of the dryer at the terminal block where the power cord connects, like ahso:

If power supply is good, then what you have sounds like a classic case of a bad thermal fuse. Electric dryers are designed so that when the thermal fuse opens, it kills power to the motor and heating element.

Here’s the link to the replacement thermal fuse with a how-to video ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Thermal-Fuse/3392519/2986

BTW, the number one cause of thermal fuses opening is a dryer vent with excessive back pressure. A vent can be totally free of lint and still be bad. The name of the game is back pressure: crimps, using the slinky material, stuck outside vent hood, etc. Read more ==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2011/05/14/mailbag-dryer-keeps-blowing-thermal-fuses/

When you run your dryer, whether gas or electric, the heat will turn on and off to maintain the temperature within the range selected on the control panel (cottons, permapress, knits, etc.). The temperature is controlled by a device called a cycling thermostat. If your dryer isn’t heating at all or is staying too hot for the entire cycle, one of the things you’ll want to check is this cycling thermostat. It’s easy! This slick how-to video shows you ezzacly how to to do it:

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

So your dryer powers up, you select a cycle and push start and the dryer hums for a coupla seconds and then goes quiet for a while. This usually indicates something is blocking the drum from rotating. A sock stuck in the blower would do it.

A quick test to see if you have a drum blockage problem is to simply open the door and try to turn the drum by hand. If you can’t turn the drum manually, ain’t no way that dinky motor in there is gonna turn it, ether! Can I hear an, “A-freakin-men?”

If you need to get inside the dryer to remove a sock stuck in the blower or some other rolling problem, Sublime Master john63 over at the Appliantology appliance repair forums steps us over the rice paper without a single tear or wrinkle ==> LINK

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

mark wrote:

looking for instructions on replacing rollers on an older Maytag dryer model LDG7304AAE

Piece of pie, tovarish! First, come git you a pair of drum rollers.

(Click image)

Even though it’s usually the roller above the heating element or flame tube that usually goes out first, it’s always a good idea to replace both as long as you’re going through the trouble of tearing down the dryer to fix it.

Speaking of tearing down and fixing, this nifty repair video shows you how to replace the drum rollers in this venerable dryer:

If you run into anything weird, come start a new topic in the laundry forum at the Samurai School of Appliantology and we’ll get you going.

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Peter wrote:

We have a GE dryer model DDG7280SBLWW, S/N GL315788G. The problem is the dryer does not stay hot though the entire cycle for any of the cyles (automatic of timed). When the dryer is turned on for any cycle it initially gets hot and comes up to temperatur, vent pipe hot to touch but not burning hot, then the heat cycles off and does not heat back up. The dryer will run though the rest of the cycle and when it turns off the clotes are cold and damp. I removed the vent cap outside the house and cleanned the vent pipe and dryer to make sure we have sufficient air flow but no change in the dryer performance. We called a tech who came in and started replacing parts (i believe all the sensers, coils on the gas valve, timer & timer knob) but we still have the problem. They have sent differnet people to the house but it has been 2 weeks and the dryer still isn’t working. Wife near point of leaving. There is good and bad in all situations. Please help.

This is a classic symptom of a vent duct with too much backpressure. Vents can be clear of lint and still have excessive backpressure. You can easily test this by disconnecting the vent from the back of the dryer and run it again while observing the burner on/off cycle. I’m sure you’ll see normal heating operation.

Get the gory details on how to make a good dryer vent in this post:

Appliance Tip of the Day: The Ultimate Dryer Venting Guide

If you need more help, come see us in the Samurai School of Appliantology and start a new topic in the Laundry Forum: http://appliantology.org

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

The Samurai Family of Appliance Repair Websites

The Samurai School of Appliantology
http://appliantology.org

Find and Buy Appliance Parts
http://parts.fixitnow.com

– Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Ana wrote:

Kenmore Elite dryer not heating. I have replaced the heater element 2 mos ago and just replaced for the 2nd time along with the thermal fuse. Still not heating. Help!

Click the play button below to hear my answer:

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man – http://fixitnow.com

The Samurai School of Appliantology – http://appliantology.org

Find and Buy Appliance Parts – http://parts.fixitnow.com

Keith wrote:

I have an unruly LG DLE 5932 dryer that will run for about 30-seconds, then shuts off. I can wait about 2 minutes cylye it again sometimes it will start run another 30-seconed, and shut off.. Sometimes it won’t run at all. I smell a faint smell of “hot” from the left side of the drum.. Can you offer any dicipline for this naughty dryer??

Click the play button below to hear my answer:

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man – http://fixitnow.com

The Samurai School of Appliantology – http://appliantology.org

Find and Buy Appliance Parts – http://parts.fixitnow.com

Stacy wrote:

I have a Maytag PYE2200AYW electric dryer. We had problems a few weeks ago and discovered that the blower wheel was cracked, so we replaced it (part # 31001317). Then a couple days later it just stops and won’t turn back on until it cools off. We figured it was the Thermostat and /or high limit fuse, so we replaced both of those (part # LA-1053). Thought all was well and tried a load of towels. It ran for about 20 minutes and then shut off again. Now it won’t turn back on even after it has cooled. The vents are clear, and we can’t figure out what it causing it to shut off. 
Please Help!

The motor has an internal thermal overload protector that’s tripping.  It does this when the motor overheats.  The motor overheats because it’s either drawing too much current or it’s blanketed in a layer of lint, which acts as insulation.

There’s a lot more to a proper dryer vent than just being clear.  Start by checking your dryer vent in accordance with the scriptures on this page:

Appliance Tip of the Day: The Ultimate Dryer Venting Guide

Next step is to disassemble the dryer and vacuum the lint off the motor.  If you need help disassembling your dryer, we can give you specific instructions in the Samurai School of Appliantology, just start a new topic in The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum.

If neither correcting the vent or cleaning the motor does the trick, then it means the motor itself is drawing too much current and overheating.  You’ll need to replace the motor:

Click image to purchase.  One year warranty on this part.

Shannon wrote:

My dryer stopped working. Will not turn on. I think it over heated and need to know which thermostat to replace on it. It’s a GE DHDSR46EG2WW

Start at the thermal fuse mounted on the heater pan under the hood. If it tests open with an ohm meter, you need to replace it. Buy the replacement here: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/High-Limit-Thermostat/276438?modelNumber=DHDSR46EG2WW

If you need help getting inside your dryer, testing the thermal fuse and installing the new one, go to the Samurai School of Appliantology at www.appliantology.org and start a new topic in the Laundry Forum. We’re here to help!

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

The Samurai Family of Appliance Repair Websites

The Samurai School of Appliantology
http://appliantology.org

– Posted using BlogPress from my iPad