Kelley wrote:

Whirlpool Duet Dryer (WED9200SQ1) keeps blowing thermal fuse. I replaced Themistor and Thermal Fuse and ran one load fine. Trying to start a 2nd load and thermal fuse blew again. All lights come on but it won’t run. I then replaced the Theramal Cut-off and High Limit Thermostat and Thermal Fuse and ran one load fine again and blew the Thermal Fuse on the 2nd load. The lint screen is clean, and exhaust is only 5 ft long and clean. I checked the heater element with a meter and it doesn’t appear to be grounded. I also took the heater element out and inspected it and it looks good. When running the exhaust seems strong and warm. I then by-passed the thermal fuse and ran the machine checking things. In automatic mode the heater element heated up, eventually turned off and then turned back on like I think it should. However, when I ran “air only” I noticed the heater element start glowing red and I shut it down. Also, during that test I noticed that the blower seemed to not run continuous. It seemed to be pulsing. I’m not sure what to check next. Any help would be appreciated.

Thermal fuses blow because of a problem with air flow and this is usually in the venting system. If you’re using the slinky-type vent hose, it could be crimped or have a bad case of what we professional appliantologts call, “venterialsclorosis,” like ahso:

Poorly-constructed dryer vents are also the single biggest cause of dryer-related household fires, too. You don’t wanna end up like this guy:

See my award-winning tome, The Ultimate Dryer Venting Guide for details on constructing a good, safe dryer vent.

Also be sure to check the vent exhaust hood outside the house, make sure it doesn’t look like this:

If you need more help figuring out what’s wrong with your dryer, come start a new topic in the Laundry Forum at the Samurai School of Appliantology.

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

This is LG’s line of condensing dryers (no vent) that use steam injected into the drum during the dry cycle to prevent wrinking. Example model number is WM3431HW.

A common problem is for too much cold water to come in to the drum during the drying cycle, leaving the clothes soggy.

Sublime Master john63 in the The Samurai School of Appliantology illumines us with a basic understanding of what’s going on here:

The COLD WATER VALVE ASSY consists of (3) valves.

The valve on the right side (if facing the front of the washer) is a *Misting* Valve that sends a cold mist into the Duct Assy behind the tub. This cold mist helps to convert *steam* from the tub (during the dry cycle) back to a condensation/liquid form.

As your’re aware—this then begins to pool in the Sump Boot & Drain Pump Assy—to be periodically pumped/drained from the combo washer/dryer.

When this valve becomes faulty—too much cold water enters the Duct & Tub (wet laundry).

More info in this topic at the Samurai School of Appliantology… http://appliantology.org/topic/31016-lg-wm3431hw-dryer/

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

First, open the door and turn the drum by hand to make sure it’s not seized. If the drum won’t turn or is very hard to turn, then you may have either bad drum rollers or something stuck in the blower.

Okay, so the drum movement seems normal. Now you need to see if you’re getting voltage to the motor. Use the wiring diagram supplied with the dryer for the wires on which to check for voltage at the motor. Usually, it’s the blue and white wires. If you need help figuring this out, come start a new topic in the Laundry forum and we’ll get you going.

If you’re getting 120vac to the motor, then the motor is bad. You’ll need to replace it, click on the motor pic below to order; one year guarantee! Easy job– you can watch a how-to video on this page.

And you might as well do the maintenance kit while you’re in there; includes the belt, idler, and drum rollers.

Other suggested items:

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Frigidaire used to make dryers for GE (example model number: WSM2700HBWWW) back when GE was too busy building shoddy Mark 1 nuclear power plants to build their own shoddy dryers; those came later… and they’re pretty damn shoddy. The Frigidaire-built units were better, though not nearly as good as the Whirlpool units with the lint filter in the top panel.

Anyway, if your Frigidaire-built GE dryer– or if your Frigidaire-built Frigidaire dryer– is making a squealing noise in back, you probably need to replace the rear bearing kit.

Here’s the link to the bearing kit which includes a how-to video:

(click it to git it, Hoss)

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Example model number: GEW9200

This problem is caused by a bad door switch. Here’s the link to the door switch, click the picture:

(click for larger view)

You can test using an ohmmeter. There are 3 prongs on switch, identified as C,NC, and NO.

C-NC should be closed circuit until you push switch and then it should be open.

C-NO should be open circuit until you push switch and then read closed.

Buying the switch through this site is a risk-free proposition because you can return the switch for a refund if that doesn’t fix it.

Let’s listen with amazement as Sublime Master john63 from the Samurai School of Appliantology unveils the mysteries of disassembling an LG dryer. This particular procedure was for model number DLE7177WM but is largely applicable to all current LG models.

1) Unplug the dryer.

2) Remove 3 “phillips” screws from the TOP COVER of the dryer. These screws are at the rear of the top cover.

3) Slide the top cover rearward about an inch & lift-off.

4) Open the DOOR of the dryer & remove 2 screws under the *opening*. Roughly located at the 5 and 7 O’clock locations.

5) Standing in front of the dryer & looking behind the control panel—unplug all wire connections to the MAIN BOARD.

6) Now remove the screws from the *corners* of the CONTROL PANEL (Note: Some dryers only have one screw on the right side

7) Grasp the top of the CONTROL PANEL & forcefully “peel” the panel off (This plastic is tough).

8) With the CONTROL PANEL removed—you’ll notice 4 screws that secure the FRONT COVER. Remove those & slowly tilt the FRONT COVER towards you—disconnect the DOOR SWITCH PLUG. Set aside the front cover. Step back & look at the front of the dryer. On the lower right side is a *white* plug. Squeeze the tab on this plug & pull apart to disconnect. This is the plug for the MOISTURE SENSOR. (During re-assembly—don’t forget this little guy).

9) Grab a FELT-TIP MARKER & place a *dot* next to the 2 screws on the front of the *silver* bracket that the CONTROL PANEL *snaps* onto. Then remove the 2 screws. Remove the other 2 screws at the top of the *silver* bracket and remove the silver bracket by pulling upward.

10) Remove 4 screws at each corner (or ear) of the FRONT DRUM SUPPORT ASSY.

11) Pull the SUPPORT ASSY upward & towards you–set aside.

12) Grab the DRUM & rotate counterclockwise while pulling towards you. The belt will slip off. Remove the DRUM.

13) You’ll see a silver/square box on the right-hand side. Pull off the wires to the THERMAL LIMITER & test it for *continuity* with the test meter. If “open”—replace the THERMAL LIMITER and the other THERMOSTAT next to it.

14) If the THERMAL LIMITER has failed—the home exhaust vent *must* be cleaned. 100%.

15) Use a shop vac to clean everything up.

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

First, verify that you have 240 VAC at the power cord terminal on the dryer. No cheating here! You gotta get eyeballs and meter on that terminal ‘cuz you might find something like this:

Okay, if it passes the Essential Eyeball Test®, then it’s time to put your meter on it. Check for the voltages as shown in the diagram below:

(click to enlarge)

If all that looks good, then and only then are you ready to look for trouble inside the dryer. Here’s a spiffy troubleshooting technique for splitting the problem in half, L1 side from the L2 side, developed by Sublime Master RegUS_PatOff, a sensei at the Samurai School of Appliantology:

Set the Dryer to run a Regular Heat Cycle.
Keep the Door open so the Drum Motor (and Heater) doesn’t run.
Test for 120v AC from each side of each Thermal device to chassis (ground).
and from each side of Heater to chassis (ground).

With the Door open, and the Drum Motor not running, that disconnects L2 power.
L1 power should flow all the way through, from the Timer, (120v measured to chassis, ground) and from each side of the following:
Operating Thermostat, Thermal Fuse, Hi-Limit Thermostat, Heater Element, all the way up to one side of the Motor Centrifugal Switch,
The other side of the Centrifugal Switch will (should) have 120v to chassis (ground), but that would be from L2.

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

From a Whirlpool press release:

Steam relaxes wrinkles and removes odors from garments inside the Whirlpool Duet Steam dryer.

Using the water line from the washer to spray a fine mist on clothes, the dryer converts water into steam that lifts out odors and smoothes wrinkles as it penetrates fabrics. A 15-minute Quick Refresh cycle applies this feature to clothing that isn’t dirty but merely needs deodorizing and de-wrinkling. And a 20-minute Enhanced Touch-Up cycle performs the same tasks on clean clothing left for long periods in the dryer drum after drying is completed. Other dryer features include the AccelerCare system, which minimizes drying time so that loads in both a washer and dryer are completed in more nearly the same time periods. Whirlpool has already begun training authorized service personnel in the technology and service procedures on the product, which has a suggested retail price of $999.

In fact, the Whirlpool “steam dryer” unit just sprays a mist of cold water on the clothes to remove the wrinkles and the heat of the dryer works with this mist to remove wrinkles and odors.

Sounds gimmicky to me.

LG apparently thinks so, too, because they’re suing Whirlpool for using the words “Steam Dryer.” The LG steam dryers have a steam generator that actually makes steam for the clothes to remove wrinkles and odors.

I suppose that technically the Whirlpool dryer is a stream dryer if you’re calling the warmed-up mist steam. But, by that definition, all dryers are “steam dryers” because, as long as the clothes are wet, there is a vapor pressure of steam in the air space inside the drum.

If that’s what you mean, then how ’bout just dampen your wrinkled clothes that sat in the dryer too long with a spray bottle and run ’em another 10 minutes?

To me this just looks like a sales ploy since it does not actually spray steam onto the clothes, just a cold water mist. If you really want a steam dryer for whatever reasons you’ve convinced yourself that you need one, buy the LG unit– at least you’ll be a getting a real steam dryer.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

The Samurai Family of Appliance Repair Websites

Parts==> http://parts.fixitnow.com
Forums==> http://appliantology.org
Facebook==> http://facebook.com/fixitnowsamurai
Twitter==> http://twitter.com/fixitnowsamurai
Newsletter==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com
SMS==> 603-505-8460

Okay, boys and girls, last time on the Freaky Uncle Samurai Show, I told y’all about a nifty maintenance kit for Whirlpool-Kenmore dryers with the lint filter in the top panel. But Whirlpool makes another style of dryer with the lint filter in the front panel where you open the door. This is the so-called DOTT dryer which stands for the “dryer of tomorrow, today.” No chit, boys and girls, that’s really what they call it. Ol’ Samurai may be a little freaky and smell kinda funny, but he ain’t no liar. These dryers aren’t nearly as tough and durable as the other kind with the lint filter in the top panel but I rectum that’s progress for ya.

Whirlpool makes a maintenance kit for these dryers, too. Check it out:

(click it to git it, l’il chillun)

And they’s even a fixemup video for this kit, too. Grab some popcorn and let’s watch:

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

So you have one of those Whirlpool or Kenmore dryers with the lint filter in the top panel? First of all, congratulations! These dryers are tanks and, IMHO, the best dryer design ever put out there. Whatever you do, don’t get rid of this one. The dryers made today don’t even come close to the durability and repairability of this one.

We have one of these dryers ourselves. It’s over 30 years old and still running strong. Only problem we’ve ever had with it was that it started making an intermittent high-pitched squealing sound, which would start after the dryer had been going a while. When I opened it up, I could see the drum rollers were sloppy and would chatter when I spun ’em by hand. The belt was in pretty bad shape, too, and it would just be a matter of time before it broke. And I figured I might as well replace the idler pulley while I was in there.

When I started looking up parts, it turns out Whirlpool puts out a handy maintenance kit for this very reason. Contains the belt, two drum rollers, new idler pulley and complete destructions. My, my, how conveeeeenient.

(click it to git it, Hoss)

And here’s a cool video that shows you how to do it, step-by-step:

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

If your LG dryer (example model number DLE7177WM) won’t start, one possibility is that the thermal limiter is burned out. This usually happens in situations where the dryer was taking too long to dry laundry the last several loads. If this was the case, the THERMAL LIMITER on the heater housing may have shut-down the dryer. When this occurs, the dryer cannot be made to start again until the THERMAL LIMITER has been replaced and the actual cause of the overheating is found and corrected. Usually, this is a poorly designed or installed vent.

To facilitate your appliance repair adventure, Sublime Master john63 in the Samurai School of Appliantology has prepared this step-by-step instruction for replacing the thermal limiter. BTW, here’s the part link to your replacement thermal limiter==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/High-Limit-Thermostat/1268366?modelNumber=DLE7177WM

1) Unplug the dryer.

2) Remove 3 “phillips” screws from the TOP COVER of the dryer. These screws are at the rear of the top cover.

3) Slide the top cover rearward about an inch & lift-off.

4) Open the DOOR of the dryer & remove 2 screws under the *opening*. Roughly located at the 5 and 7 O’clock locations.

5) Standing in front of the dryer & looking behind the control panel—unplug all wire connections to the MAIN BOARD.

6) Now remove the screws from the *corners* of the CONTROL PANEL (Note: Some dryers only have one screw on the right side

7) Grasp the top of the CONTROL PANEL & forcefully “peel” the panel off (This plastic is tough).

8) With the CONTROL PANEL removed—you’ll notice 4 screws that secure the FRONT COVER. Remove those & slowly tilt the FRONT COVER towards you—disconnect the DOOR SWITCH PLUG. Set aside the front cover. Step back & look at the front of the dryer. On the lower right side is a *white* plug. Squeeze the tab on this plug & pull apart to disconnect. This is the plug for the MOISTURE SENSOR. (During re-assembly—don’t forget this little guy).

9) Grab a FELT-TIP MARKER & place a *dot* next to the 2 screws on the front of the *silver* bracket that the CONTROL PANEL *snaps* onto. Then remove the 2 screws. Remove the other 2 screws at the top of the *silver* bracket and remove the silver bracket by pulling upward.

10) Remove 4 screws at each corner (or ear) of the FRONT DRUM SUPPORT ASSY.

11) Pull the SUPPORT ASSY upward & towards you–set aside.

12) Grab the DRUM & rotate counterclockwise while pulling towards you. The belt will slip off. Remove the DRUM.

13) You’ll see a silver/square box on the right-hand side. Pull off the wires to the THERMAL LIMITER & test it for *continuity* with the test meter. If “open”—replace the THERMAL LIMITER and the other THERMOSTAT next to it.

14) If the THERMAL LIMITER has failed—the home exhaust vent *must* be cleaned. 100%.

15) Use a shop vac to clean everything up.

Re-assemble in reverse order.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

The Samurai Family of Appliance Repair Websites

Parts==> http://parts.fixitnow.com
Forums==> http://appliantology.org
Facebook==> http://facebook.com/fixitnowsamurai
Twitter==> http://twitter.com/fixitnowsamurai
Newsletter==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com
SMS==> 603-505-8460