Background Information on LG, Siemens, and Samsung Appliances for Consumers; appliance reviews

One of the Master Appliantologists at the Samurai School of Appliantology, TomBBY, wrote up a nice backgrounder piece on LG, Siemens, and Samsung appliances. If you’re in the market for new appliances, you need to read this!

____Original Message_____
From: TomBBY
Date: 2005-09-28 12:35:49
Subject: LG and Siemens Appliances

I have noticed reading your site that you had no listing or information for a couple of products we carry, so I thought I might share a little wisdom with you. 🙂

Siemens washers, dryers, ranges and OTR microwaves are carried by Best Buy, and quite possibly some others. These majors are produced by Bosch of America (in the Carolinas, I believe), while the OTR is manufacturered for them by LG (Lucky-Goldstar).

LG and Samsung are mostly coming from South Korea (the ones from North Korea tend to explode, so we don’t buy them! 8-0 ), and the BEST of the two is definitely the LG. We have only had two LG refrigerators in 2+ years come in with an electrical problem, and it didn’t affect the way they cool. 99.9% of the problems we have with LG is scratch and dent out of the box. Otherwise, they are one of the most trouble free appliances I have ever sold. I actually get customers returning to the store to thank me for selling them this appliance!

The LG laundry products are practically bullet-proof. The only problem we’ve encountered so far, is a door buffeting problem, that was fixed with a free kit of four shim/washers for the inside latch – to bring the door closer to the drum. That was only in the early units – no later units have had even that problem! If you compare the LG washer/dryer to the Whirlpool Duet (which we also sell), it makes it very difficult to sell a Duet. Even with Whirlpool’s name recognition, the LG laundry pair is just such a better performer (and superior in design) than the Duet. LG really made these machines well.

The only loose canon in the whole kitchen group in the Siemens dishwasher, which although VERY quiet (runs at 48 dbs), is decidedly being produced in the same plant as the Bosch – or at least with the same design. However, the Bosch units list a 42db rating over their Siemen’s counterparts. The LG is also rated at 48db, (and ALSO looks suspiciously like the Bosch!) but with it’s sealed sides it’s hard to believe that it produces much noise over a low hum. I have had customers contact me after installing one of these (LG) in their home, remark at it’s low water usage, easy control, and virtually no noise – even when installed into an island!

Samsung refrigerators are doing MUCH better than they did when they first appeared on the MAJAPS scene, but they are still not up to the quality of a Whirlpool or LG product. While they make their own refrigerators (and I believe their own “special design” OTR microwaves) their ranges and dishwashers are CLEARLY built by Maytag. However, since Maytag has left a bad taste in BBY’s mouth, so to speak, the only Maytag built products you will now find on our floor are Hoover products.

If you look hard enough, you will notice that Sears is using both Samsung and LG designs/builds for their Kennmore OTR line! You will also notice that the LG design is being used for Kennmore’s Trio (French door style) refrigerators, as well as Amana.

Thanks, Tom!

Washing Machine Diagnostic and Repair Guide; washer repair; washing machine repair

Washing Machine Diagnostic & Repair Guide
Problem Possible Causes
EEK! My washer is leaking!
  • Your fill hoses might need tightening at either end.
  • I’ve seen where poor draining in the standpipe causes the sudsy water to back up and overflow, making it look like a washer problem when, in fact, it was a plumbing problem.
  • Older Maytag Dependable Care washers can have problems with the tub water injector tube leaking.
  • A pump might be leaking. You gotta open it up and see.
    On Whirlpool/Kenmore direct drive washers, the pump is down in front and you’ll need to remove the cabinet to check it out.
    On old-style GE/Hotpoint washers, the pump is down in back and you’ll need to pull off that back panel to check it out.
    The pump on Maytag washers is down in front and you’ll need to pull the front panel off to check it out.
  • The tub might be leaking. How can you tell? Right, you gotta open ‘er up and look at it. Crystal balls don’t work too good.
  • The new-style GE’s (which suck out loud) are bad for the infamous spin-during-agitate problem. This makes a mess because it sloshes water out of the tub all over the frikkin’ floor. The only cure is to replace the brake package but, man, you might as well go ahead and replace the whole transmission. Prevention is the best thing here: avoid GE like the plague and buy only Maytag or Whirlpool laundry equipment.
  • The fill valve has crud caught in it making it stick open. Replace the fill valve and install sediment filtration on household water supply. More details on this here.
  • Very restricted water flow through the valve. This problem is unique to the older GE/Hotpoint washers. Low water flow will cause the water from the valve’s discharge hose to run back up the hose by capillary action and down to the floor. This is a tricky one to catch, Hoss. Takes real kidneys to spot this one.
The washer doesn’t spin or, if it does, it’s real sluggish.
  • No spin at all: the lid switch is fried. Whaddya do? You test it with your meter.
  • In the Whirlpool/Kenmore washers, a common problem is that the lid plunger stops making contact with the lid switch. Use a pen to manually press the lid switch actuator (with the lid up, duh). If the washer spins…well, you know the rest.
  • Older (belt-drive) Whirlpool/Kenmores: the spin solenoid is burned out or has cut wires. Ohm out that solenoid (20-30 ohms) and test with a test cord. Make sure the wires are intact by giving them a little tug. If this is OK, you may need to adjust/replace the basket drive.
  • Newer (direct-drive) Whirlpool/Kenmores: worn out direct drive coupler.
  • The drive belt has had it. Look for excessive glazing on the sides of the belt or cracks in the power side of the belt. On Maytags, replace the belt set if they look glazed or shiny on the sides even though the belts may look OK otherwise. Belts on other brands will be more obviously bad.
  • Timer is fried. On older timers, it’s sometimes possible to run an external jumper to replace the bad internal contacts. Usually, however, the entire timer must be replaced. The only way to confirm is to use your meter and wiring diagram.
It fills OK, it just won’t agitate.
  • Drive belt could be worn out–see above.
  • On the Whirlpool/Kenmore dual action agitator, the agitator dog cam assembly or drive spindle could be worn out. If the agitator just wobbles around when you turn it by hand, you need to replace the dog cam set.
  • The timer contacts for the agitate cycle could be fried. Time to blow the dust off that meter and read that wiring diagram.
  • On belt-driven Whirlpool/Kenmores: wig-wag plunger/lifter or transmission mode lever could be worn out. You’ll need to look at the action of the agitate solenoid when the machine is in the agitation part of the cycle. If the plunger/lifter slips off the transmission mode lever, replace either the plunger/lifter or the mode lever, as appropriate.
  • On Maytags only: the lid switch could be fried. (Other brands will still agitate with a bad lid switch.)
  • Pressure switch is fried. You’ll need to ohm out the contacts on it. How you gonna know what you’re looking for in the contacts if you don’t use the wiring diagram, too?
  • The air tube connecting to the pressure switch is pinched or you pulled it off by accident when you where tearing the thing apart because you didn’t have a clue about what you were doing.
It doesn’t agitate or spin.
  • Again, broken or worn drive belts.
  • Newer (direct-drive) Whirlpool/Kenmores: worn out direct drive coupler.
  • The drive belt has had it. Look for excessive glazing on the sides of the belt or cracks in the power side of the belt. On Maytags, replace the belt set if they look glazed or shiny on the sides even though the belts may look OK otherwise. Belts on other brands will be more obviously bad.
  • On Whirlpool/Kenmore direct-drive machines: worn direct drive coupler.
  • Motor is fried. If you can’t rig up a test cord and test it, that’s as far as I go with you on this one, Hoss.
  • No power at washer electrical outlet…duh!
"Fool thing won’t pump out and I got a tub full of stinky water in the washer. I’m gonna die! EEEK!"
  • Pump’s fried. If it’s a belt-driven pump, you can tell by feeling how stiff it is to turn. For electric pumps, hook up a test cord and run it. Pull drain hose and watch discharge stream. If stream fluctuates or is pathetic, replace the pump.
  • Again, worn drive belt. In this case, washer won’t spin either (or will have a sluggish spin).
  • The drain hose is clogged (usually with panties or nylon stockings, ya hey). Pull drain hose and watch discharge stream. A good discharge stream will have the same diameter as the hose itself. If less than this, it’s time to play find the panties.
It sounds like a helicopter’s taking off and the whole house shakes when the washer goes into spin.
  • Try leveling the washer, genius. Check for play along the diagonal corners of the washer cabinet by applying downward pressure. If there is any play at all, the washer will shake during spin and the legs must be leveled.
  • You have brilliantly located your heavy-ass washer on a floor that would be condemned for structural weakness if a building inspector saw it. Try placing reinforcing pads or pieces of plywood on the floor under the washer.
  • On Maytag top loaders: worn damper pads.
  • On Whirlpool/Kenmore direct-drive machines: worn snubber pads.
The clothes are still sopping wet at the end of the cycle and take forever to dry.
  • Ain’t but one thing: the washer’s not spinning (although it still pumps out). "Oh no, I know it spins." How do you know it spins, Sherlock, did you bother to actually see it spinning during the spin cycle? Don’t you think that’d be a better idea than shooting your mouth off at me?
"That washer put oil spots all over my clothes. I’m gonna sue!"
  • Take a chill pill, Prudence, it’s probably not the washer’s fault (unless it’s a GE/Hotpoint). Now, get ready to have your little mind blown: most of time, spots on clothes are from a chemical reaction between the fabric softener and the detergent. Oh sure, don’t believe me, go hire a lawyer, I don’t give a rip. But you might unbunch your panties just long enough to do this little test: try handwashing a spotted garment in warm soapy water. If the spots come off, they were caused by fabric softener/detergent interaction. I know, I’m a genius. But talk is cheap–thank me with your wallet, not your lips.
  • Transmission oil leaked back into the tub. This is most common with the older GE/Hotpoint washers. Test by applying solvent to a section of a spotted garment. If the spots come off only with solvent but not with soap and water, then they are oil spots. If you do have a GE/Hotpoint washer, take it to the dump and buy a Maytag or a Whirlpool.
"That horrible washer ate holes in my clothes! I’m gonna die!"
  • Try using less bleach, Nurse Ratchet.
  • Your clothes are getting caught under the agitator. Feel under bottom of agitator for rough spots that can catch clothing.
  • You’re using too little water for the load size you’re running. Look, if you want to save water, get a front-loading machine. Otherwise, fill that sucker up and pollute all the water on the planet in the process.
Clothes are still soapy at the end of the cycle.
  • Your cold water valve is clogged with sediment. Rinse is done with cold water. No cold water, no rinse.
  • Fried timer contact. Less likely but possible. Check the valve first, Hoser.
  • Itd be a good idea to check your water hardness, too.
I don’t get no cold water in my washer.
  • What, are you from Brooklyn and it’s your birthright to talk like a moron? I think you meant to say, "I cannot get cold water to flow into my washer." There, doesn’t that sound better, y’blockhead?
  • Sediment has gotten into the valve from the household water supply and is blocking the flow. Replace the valve.
  • Cold water hand valve at wall turned off…no, I’m not gonna say it.
The washer is completely dead.
  • No power at the outlet…DUH!
  • Timer is fried.
  • Washer went off-balance and tripped the off-balance switch. Open washer lid, redistribute the load and re-start the washer. Wasn’t that a lot quicker than getting on-line, finding this website, and listening to my abuse?

Order Parts for Your Washer

Repairing a Melted Hole in a Dishwasher; dishwasher repair

Annisa McAllister wrote:

Frigidare Gallery Model #GPDB998JC0. Bracket supporting heating element became a free spirit and allowed the heating element to melt a 3-inch long little trench in the bottom of the tub. Don’t think it melted a hole, but pretty close. Can I repair with some type of epoxy, ect. ?? Please help restore my kitchen karma….Thanks !!!

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Message sent from IP: 70.178.106.11

Not to worry, my leetle grasshopper, your karma is unviolated. I’ve done this repair many times using a good-quality, high-temperature epoxy. In extreme cases where a huge, gaping hole is burned into the tub, you’ll need to pick out the charred and curdled plastic around the wound and cover it with a fiberglass patch, and then slather it with epoxy.

Another technique, easier but with less strength, is to use a duct tape patch on the outside and then slather the epoxy on top of it from the inside. Once the epoxy cures, you can peel away the duct tape.

Gas Dryer Fires Up Intermittently; dryer repair

Evie Hump wrote:

I have a question about my dryer. I have a Kenmore that is 3 years old. It has always worked very well, until now. In the last few days the gas does not always turn on. We can start it up, watch what we believe to be the glow plug light up and maybe 75% of the time the gas will start. The other times it does not and the glow plug goes off and after a bit it will try again. Most times it will not heat back up again. Any suggestions!

Thanks

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Message sent from IP: 69.212.200.56

gas dryer valve coils -- come git you some!

Turn on gas dryer,
flame comes on only sometimes.
Replace valve coils.

GE or Hotpoint Dishwasher Hums but Doesn’t Run; dishwasher repair

stvsue wrote:

I just found your site and fixed my dishwasher thanks to your info!
You provided a picture showing the simple task of giving the fan on the motor a twirl to unstick it and…Yahoo! it worked! Thanks again!

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Message sent from IP: 4.235.84.109

Thanks for your comments! For the benefit of others reading this, the GE dishwasher repair pearl you found is here.

BTW, I’ve noticed that Yahoo seems to be giving much better search results than Google lately. Is King Goo-Goo slipping (*gasp*)?

Roper Dryer Won’t Shut Off; dryer repair

melanie wrote:

Oh noble Samurai, how I love your website. It has already helped me fix my washer, now for the dryer….

Roper model REX3615EW1. Dries and dries, but never stops. Does not matter if it’s on timed dry or auto sense dry….goes and goes and goes…dries the clothes great and then some!

Following your gracious advice, we have THOROUGHLY cleaned the inner and outer duct work. It is directly vented to the outside through a proper vent.

Please help this poor grasshopper, she is truly tired of having to set an alarm clock to remind her to go shut the damn thing off!

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Message sent from IP: 64.223.234.101

Ahh, grasshoppah, Bliss Supreme has come upon you this day for the Samurai has received your plaintive plea.

The reason your dryer never shuts off is because the timer has failed. The solution is simple: replace the timer. Easy job, plug n’ chug, a mere single mug on the world-famous SUDs-o-meter.

War Story: Working on a Stack Laundry Unit that Flooded; washer repair

typical stack laundry unit-- click for larger view
A typical stack laundry unit stuffed into a tight cubby in a bathroom.

the connections behind a stack laundry unit -- click for larger view
Looking behind the stacked laundry unit. Couple things to note: 1) the vent hose, while metallic, which is good, is extremely difficult to disconnect for service and will tend to crimp when the unit is pushed back in place; and 2) since the washer’s water shut off valve is behind the unit and is not accessible for turning off between uses, BOTH fill hoses should be stainless steel braided hoses— that black rubber fill hose is a flood waiting to happen.

the cute plumber's trick -- click for larger view
This stack laundry unit had flooded– that’s why I was called out to repair it. After pulling the water inlet valve, the reason for the flooding was readily apparent: one of the protective inlet screens had been removed! This is called the cute plumber’s trick. Don’t do it! If you have a problem with scale gunking up the valve and restricting flow FIX THAT PROBLEM! Removing the protective inlet screen just creates another problem.

Is it Worth Replacing a Broken Coupler on a Whirlpool or Kenmore Direct Drive Washer?; washer repair

Tammy wrote:

SA BOM NIM — I have a Kenmore 70 Series heavy duty washing machine, model 110.82873120 which is probably 13 to 14 years old (I say probably because it came with the house when we bought it 5 years ago). I think the transmission coupling has broken, because it hums but doesn’t spin or agitate. Is it worth repairing, being this old? (It has seen light use, only 2-3 loads every week for the last 5 years and I assume similar in the preceding years, as it was owned by a retired couple). What is the expected life of these machines?

Thank you for sharing your great wisdom.

Tammy

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Message sent from IP: 72.28.19.214

This is one of the best top loading washers made today (Whirlpool is the manufacturer– Sears pays them put a Kenmore label on it). And you’re talking about one of the easiest washer repairs in the appliance world, two mugs on the SUDs-o-meter. Combine this with the fact that the replacement coupler costs less than $15 and it’s a no-brainer: fix your washer!

This page gives complete instructions on how to do this repair and even has a link to the part you need.

As for your question about life expectancy of washing machines, read this.

Go git ’em!

Samurai’s 12 Laws of Appliance Repair

Samurai’s Ichiban Law of Appliance Repair: Never replace a part unless you have proof that the part is bad.

This distinguishes the Samurai School of Appliantology from the Monkey Boy School of Appliance Repair. When I replace an appliance part, it’s because I have proven that the part is bad. This proof could be something subtle, like an electrical measurement, or something simple, like laying eyeballs on a burned wire connection.

Samurai’s 2nd Law of Appliance Repair: All machines break.

I don’t care how much you paid, who made it, or what the salesperson told you, appliances are just another type of machine. And all machines, like everything else in the physical world (including our bodies) tend inexorably toward entropy, i.e., they wear out and breakdown. The corollary to the 2nd Law is to buy appliances that are easy to repair because, at some point during its useful life, you will be repairing it. Speaking of useful life, how long should appliances last?

Samurai’s 3rd Law of Appliance Repair: Measure twice, order once.

Ok, you’ve diligently observed Samurai’s Ichiban Law of Appliance Repair and have proven that a part is bad based on some type of objective observation. If this observation involved making an electrical measurement, such as voltage, current, or resistance, then make that measurement TWICE just to be doubly-woubly sure that you didn’t make a mistake. Common mistakes in making electrical measurements include not making good contact with your probe and not removing at least one wire from the component before making a continuity or resistance measurement.

Samurai’s 4th Law of Appliance Repair: Beliefs are for religion, not appliance repair.

In appliance repair, we use test instruments to quantify the problem and draw definitive conclusions about cause and effect. Hope, beliefs, and wishful thinking don’t get stuff fixed, unless it’s by pure, blind luck.

Samurai’s 5th Law of Appliance Repair: Electronics and wet appliances do not mix.

Manufacturers love using fancy electronical boards for things that used to be done by simple, reliable mechanical switches. I see these boards fail frequently and at far greater expense than the good ol’ mechanical switches. But the failure rate of these cheesy, over-priced electronical boards in the wet appliances (washer, dishwasher, ice and water dispensers on refrigerators) is excessively high. If you have a choice when buying new appliances, opt for the models with few or no electronic boards.

Samurai’s 6th Law of Appliance Repair: Begin troubleshooting right at the problem.

Where else you gonna start? No water coming in your dishwasher? Start at the water inlet valve. Gas oven won’t bake? Start at the ignitor. Go right to the main thing that ain’t doing its thang.

Samurai’s 7th Law of Appliance Repair: All leaks are visual.

Let’s say your washer is leaking. You see the water seeping from under the washer cabinet. So you go online to the Samurai School of Appliantology and say, “my washer is leaking, what should I do?” And we’ll tell you to remove the front panel and get some eyeballs on where exactly the leak is coming from. Same deal with your dishwasher– remove the kickplate and peer underneath with a flashlight while it’s running to spot the source of the leak. Get the picture?

Samurai’s 8th Law of Appliance Repair: Fix the obvious problems first.

If you have an appliance that you think may have several things wrong with it, you have to break down the problem into smaller component problems and then fix each one. Usually, when you fix the obvious problem first, you find that it was the only problem all along. Other times, you cannot even diagnose the other problems until you’ve fixed the obvious one(s).

Samurai’s 9th Law of Appliance Repair: Nothing kills bio-gookus like chlorine.

Just remember this next time you’re dealing with a restricted condensate drain in your refrigerator. Bio-gookus loves to grow in dark, moist environments like condensate drain tubes and they’ll restrict the flow the same way plaque does in arteries.

Samurai’s 10th Law of Appliance Repair: Never move an appliance to make a repair unless you absolutely have to.

This is one I learned the hard way. You never know what you’re gonna run into (that you didn’t need to) when you move an appliance. And, worse yet, you may end up creating a new repair that you hadn’t planned on. The classic example is pulling a dryer out just a few inches only to find that it had some impossible dryer vent connection that requires a contortionist/gymnast to re-attach. Oy!

Samurai’s 11th Law of Appliance Repair: Raw power is dirty power.

All electricity is not created equal. Power quality varies widely from place to place. Depending on where you live, power at the wall outlets in your house could have all kinds of garbage on it. Stuff like voltage surges, sags, swells, and spikes can kill electrical and electronics equipment. In this modern era of using electronic control boards in appliances for the jobs that simple, reliable mechanical switches used to do, all your appliances should be protected by simple surge protectors at the least. Just like you wouldn’t (or shouldn’t) plug your computer directly into the wall outlet without using some type of surge protection, neither should you expose your appliances to naked, raw power.

Samurai’s 12th Law of Appliance Repair: Neutral is not ground; ground is not neutral.

Under normal circumstances, neutral and ground should have the same, or close to the same, electrical potential. But, electrically, neutral and ground are not the same thing and serve entirely different purposes. Back in the old days, they were often used interchangeably, as with the old three-wire dryer and range cords. But, after lots of people got themselves fried or burned their houses down due to a ground fault, “They” decided it would be a good idea to respect the distinction between ground and neutral. Hence the new four-wire dryer and range connections.

Samurai’s Golden Rule of Appliance Repair: Never trust customer diagnostics.

I’m too embarrassed to admit how many times I’ve been burned by violating the Golden Rule. You’ll get some customers that are so eloquent and seem so erudite and technically proficient that you’ll be tempted to accept their diagnosis over the phone (at their insistence– to save money, of course). So when you bop on over with the special-ordered part that doesn’t fix the problem, you’re now in a quandary: how do you charge for this wasted repair effort and the cost of returning a special-ordered part…if you can even return it? Most electronic boards cannot be returned once they’re installed. The hard lesson is to always do your own diagnosis, no matter how much the customer insists otherwise.

Dishwasher Repair At Your Fingertips

Stephan wrote:

My dishwasher was not working tonight, Saturday, 10pm. What a pain in the a…

But no, I found a solution in 2 seconds on your webpage.

Thanks a lot!

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Message sent from IP: 69.207.170.159

I assume you’re referring to my Dishwasher FAQ page. Glad to hear you whupped up on that bad boy!

And thanks for your feedback!

Gas Stove Goes Boom When It’s Turned Off; stove repair, range repair, oven repair

rvancott wrote:

I have a kenmore stove. Inconsistantly after the stove is turned on after several minutes I heard a boom from the stove. The kitchen smells like gas, but the stove is on. I would assume from your trouble shooting guide that the ignitor was the case. Do you have any insights/surgestions….Master

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Message sent from IP: 68.43.121.147

Ahh, grasshoppah, the problem with your insolent range runs deeper than merely a bad igniter. What’s happening is the gas valve is not snapping shut the way it’s supposed to and it’s letting gas leak at the end of the cycle when it should be shut off. This rogue gas hits the igniter, which is still hot but cooling off, and flashes, creating the mini-boom that you report.

Solution: replace the gas valve; three mugs on the SUDs-o-meter.

Kenmore Washer Won’t Spin; washer repair

george gerrts wrote:

hi, have a kenmore washer model 110.20872990……unit agitates but won,t spin……..does it need a new pump and if so, which does it have?….thanks………george

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Message sent from IP: 152.163.101.6

lid switch for your washer.  click it to git it, hoss.A no-spin condition on this washer, the top-loading direct drive washer built by Whirlpool (with a Kenmore name stuck on it, in your case) is almost always a sure sign of a bad lid switch. As far as repairs go, they don’t get much easier than this one– it rates a mere single mug on the SUDs-o-meter. Got illustrated instructions fer ya ratcheer.

Kenmore Electric Dryer Works for 5 Minutes Then Shuts off; dryer repair

Bern Williams wrote:

I have a Kenmore electric dryer-110.60612990. It was humming for a period of time. Yesterday when I push the start button it hums, works for about 5 mins then shuts off. Today, I pressed the start button, there is nothing..no noise. Is it just the motor or could it be a variety of problems. I had this dryer since in 2000.

desperate need for help.

Thanks Bern

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Message sent from IP: 24.12.84.140

Here’s whatcha do, compadre. Open the dryer door and try to turn the drum by hand. If it won’t turn or you have to be Hercules to get it to budge, then you have something stuck in the blower chute– clean it out.

motor for a whirlpool or kenmore dryerOn the other hand, if the drums seems to turn ok, then you got yerself a bad motor. Slam dunk. Come git you one.

Recommended reading: Dryer Disassembly.