See this topic in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forum for some sage advice from Sublime Masters of Appliantology on how to troubleshoot this emerging problem with these dishwashers.
The brake may not be holding which means you would need to replace both the brake stator and rotor. To confirm and for more detailed troubleshooting help on this problem, see this topic in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forum.
So, you pulled the door off your Thermador range because you and your buddy were doing shots of cheap vodka and, well, it seemed like a good idea at the time. Or maybe you had another reason that sounds almost as good as that one. Whatever. But now, you can’t figger out how to get that half-ton piece of stainless steel back on the hinges. Never fear, grasshopper-dear, for the repair wisdom you seek is ratcheer.
So, how do we deal with water leaks in appliances? Let us open our hymnals to the 7th Law of the Prophecy, wherein it is written, “All leaks are visual.” In observance of the prophecy, remove the kickplates from the dishwasher and run it while peering intently underneath with a flashlight. If you see the leak coming from the location shown below…
Then you just need the drain valve shaft seal. Piece of pie, tovarish! But if you need more help, see this topic and this one at the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums.
Plug n’ chug, bud-row. 
And I do mean literally flakey. Apprentice Appliantologist billccm posted this question in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums:
Hello All:
I have a six year old KitchenAid Dishwasher KUDR01TJBL0, serial FL5125226.
It is a very mediocre product, but that is a subject for another day.
What I am experiencing is flaking of black, crusty coatings from the heating element. It seems to be cracking off and blasting itself throughout the dishwasher.
I have researched this issue, and it seems that the ’round’ elements are the issue, and Whirlpool has an upgrade kit.
So, kind experts, is this all I need to fix my problem? Is it a job I can tackle in a Saturday afternoon, or shall I call a service company?
Finally, do you recommend that I cut my loss on this very mediocre product and invest in a new Bosch dishwasher?
Sincere thanks for your time in replying, and have a nice day,
Bill
This repair is very worthwhile doing. On new appliances today, you’ll be doing some type of repair every two to four years. So, buying a new one just because something is broken on Old Faithful is not a silver bullet. Just bite the bullet and do the repair. Here’s the upgrade kit you’ll need. The repair is straight-forward; here’s the service manual if you need it.
One of the New Year’s resolutions I made was to try five new beers this year. Yeah, I like to set a low hurdle so as to build up my self esteem, an’ all. Anyway, given my legendary penchant for the sacred fermented nectar, it didn’t take long to fulfill that one. Here are the five new brews I road tested:
Wicked Pablo Picasso Rauchbie
This beer comes pre-shaken, so point it away from your face when you open it.
Ace Ventura’s Moronic Golden Ocelot American Light Lager
Ever wondered what carbonated kitty urine tastes like? I don’t… anymore.
Santa’s Grunting Lemur Barley Wine
After you kill a six-pack of this stuff, you’ll know why those poor lemurs were grunting. Santa awwta be arrested for animal cruelty.
Ardvaark-Swill Bière de Garde
The “swill” portion of the name is really misleading. But then again, I’ve always had a soft spot for beers flavored with ardvaark roadkill.
Beelzebub’s Portentious Vampire Bat Extra Special Bitter
This is one bad hombre. Two swigs of this stuff and I was doing a Vulcan mind-meld with Dick Cheney and wanted to bomb the hell outta everything.
Cheers!
Not to be confused with the famous burned R11 on the Machine Control Board, this little nasty is on the board down inside the machine, below the drum. You can’t just replace the fuse– nawsir, you ain’t gettin’ off that easy…. or cheap. You’ll need to replace the motor and motor control board upgrade kit. Yessir, it’s just one of the many exciting common problems included with these washers at no additional charge!
To make sure you’re ordering the right kit, you’ll need the first two digits of your serial number in addition to your model number. You’ll find both of these stamped on the model number tag on your washer.
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
Your refrigerator is warming up and you hear a humming sound, and maybe even a CLICK, coming from the compressor in back. First check the compressor start relay. If that checks good, then you’re probably looking at a bad compressor. This topic in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums will help you confirm it.
After you’ve confirmed that the compressor is bad, you’re faced with a choice: replace the compressor or buy a new refrigerator. The economics of your decision are simple. If you have to hire someone to replace the compressor (because it’s out of warranty and you can’t or won’t do it yourself), and it’s just your average fridge, then go shopping. It’s just not worth the expense of having the compressor replaced unless you paid so much for the refrigerator that you’re married to it, a la Sub-Zero. If, OTOH, you think you have the huevos to replace the compressor yourself, then this article will help you with that.
To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.
明けましておめでとうございます!
(Akemashite Omedetou Gozaimasu == Happy New Year)
from Samurai Appliance Repair Man and Mrs. Samurai.
Need a New Year’s resolution? Here’s one: Vote for Ron Paul, President, 2008! He’s the TRUE peace candidate: he has consistently and stridently opposed the war in Iraq, the war on drugs, and all the other loony “wars” that the feral gubmint (federal government) has declared and only ended up making problems worse. Let’s chain the beast in D.C.! Vote Ron Paul!
Domo to Vincent A. Ferri for the cool Kanji.
From: Carlos G
Subject: Question for the SamuraiYour Precious Words: I have a Kenmore Model 80, opened it up to do some cleaning now it vibrates like crazy during the spin cycle. The springs are attached on the bottom. When I move the tub around with my hand it feels unstable, very springy. I heard something about snubber pads…
Any ideas?? Thanks
This washing machine is the venerable direct drive washer made by Whirlpool Corporation. It was one of the best top-loading washers ever made in terms of reliability and serviceability. One of the features of this washer, which was revolutionary when it first came out 25 or so years ago, is self-levelling rear foot pads. Appliance techs loved this feature because it eliminated the drudgery of having to manually adjust the rear foot pads.
Whenever the washer is moved, as it would have been when you cleaned it, the foot pads need to be reset to ensure that each one is bearing about 25% of the machine’s weight. Otherwise, the washer won’t be stable when it goes into spin.
How can you tell the washer’s weight is evenly distributed among the four foot pads? Piece of pie, tovarish! We do this using a patented technique called “Rocking the diagonals.” Looking down at the top of the machine, place your hands on two opposite corners and try to rock the machine. Do this for both diagonal corners. If you get any movement, even the slightest, itsy-bitsiest movement, the washer will gyrate like a drunk at a disco during the spin cycle. Since this is a patented technique, please remember to remit your royalty payment if you use it. Domo!
OK, enough nostalgia and theory– let’s do the three-step fix for this bad boy:
1. Standing in front of the washer, grasp the back of the washer just below the control panel (DO NOT grab the control panel!)
2. Pivot the machine toward you just enough to raise the rear foot pads off the floor. You’ll hear a KER-CHUNK. That’s the sound you want to hear because it means the automatic levelers in the foot pads have done their thang.
3. Now gently lower the machine back down.
Problem solved! Now go crack a cold one and grab me one while you’re at it. 
Now it’s easier than ever to find the appliance parts you need using the new pretty yellow appliance parts search box at the top of the page.
Let’s walk through a quick example of how easy it is to find parts with the new Part Detective using the Whirlpool Duet Sport washer as an example. Let’s suppose we have an F-01 error and have determined that this is a bad CCU (central control unit– a fancy word for an unreliable electronic circuit board) and we need to buy a new one. Now the fun part beings!
Just scroll up to the top of the page and use the handy parts search box in the cheerful yellow box and enter “whirlpool duet sport washer” in the form. The search box below is the same one at the repair forum and here at this website. I’ve already typed in the search term, “whirlpool duet sport washer” so we can move things along:
When you click the “Search for Parts” button in the search box above, you’ll go to a page of parts for the Whirlpool Duet Sport washer. Go ahead and click the button, it’ll open in a new page so you can keep reading this one.
Now refine your search using the “Part Type” box on the left hand side. Click the “Circuit Board / Timer” option.
You’ll see a page of mostly CCUs for the various models Duet Sport washers. At this point, you’ll need your model number, this page will help you find it. Once you have your model number, just click the your model number in the top box on the left hand side labelled, oddly enough, “Model Number.” The next page you see will have the exact CCU for your particular model.
You could also enter an appliance part type. For example, if you enter “icemaker valve” in the parts search box, you’ll get pages of pictures of water inlet valves for every type of icemaker. Since you see a picture of each valve, you can usually find the one you need by simply looking at it.
Samurai Appliance Repair Man, Mrs. Samurai, and our spawn.
Picture courtesy of Matushka Galina Tregubov. Thanks, Matushka!
So you have a broken appliance; you’re trying to figure out what’s wrong and how to fix it. And you’re all flustered because you don’t even know where to start getting help. Well, you just unfurrow that brow and unbunch those panties, Grasshoppah, because the Samurai will walk you through your repair journey with his famous three-step appliance repair program. The three steps are (drum roll, please):
1. Browse the appliance repair FAQs.
2. Get interactive appliance repair help (if needed).
3. Get the parts and tools you need to finish the job!
See, we’re so good, we only need three steps to help you rehabilitate your appliances. 
The LSM (lame-stream media) is finally starting to catch on: there really IS a powerful grassroots Ron Paul movement. Check it out…
The Ron Paul Revolution: be a part of it!
WASHINGTON, D.C. – The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed. Name of Product: Built-in Combination Wall and Microwave Ovens
Units: About 92,000
Manufacturer: GE Consumer & Industrial, of Louisville, Ky.
Hazard: The door switch in the microwave oven can overheat and ignite plastic components in the control area, posing a fire hazard to consumers. The lower thermal oven does not pose a hazard.
Incidents/Injuries: GE is aware of 35 incidents of minor property damage and one incident in which a fire damaged adjacent kitchen cabinets. No injuries have been reported.
Description: The recall includes GE combination microwave and conventional built-in wall ovens sold under the following brand names: GE, GE Profile® and Kenmore. The ovens were sold in white, black, bisque and stainless steel. The brand name is printed on the lower left corner on the front of the microwave door. The following model and serial numbers can be found inside the microwave oven on the left interior wall.
Recalled Models:
GE / GE Profile JKP85B0A3BB, JKP85B0D1BB, JKP85W0A3WW, JKP85W0D1WW, JKP86B0F1BB, JKP86C0F1CC, JKP86S0F1SS, JKP86W0F1WW, JT965B0F1BB, JT965C0F1CC, JT965S0F1SS, JT965W0F1WW, JTP85B0A2BB, JTP85B0A3BB, JTP85B0A4BB, JTP85B0A5BB, JTP85B0D1BB, JTP85W0A2WW, JTP85W0A3WW, JTP85W0A4WW, JTP85W0A5WW, JTP85W0D1WW, JTP86B0F1BB, JTP86C0F1CC, JTP86S0F1SS, JTP86W0F1WW, JTP95B0A2BB, JTP95B0A3BB, JTP95B0A4BB, JTP95B0A5BB, JTP95B0D1BB, JTP95W0A2WW, JTP95W0A3WW, JTP95W0A4WW, JTP95W0A5WW, JTP95W0D1WWSerial number begins with:
AZ, DZ, FZ, GZ, HZ, LZ, MZ, RZ, SZ, TZ, VZ, ZZ, AA, DA, FA, GA, HA, LA, MA, RA, SA, TA, VA, ZA, AD, DD, FD, GD, HD, LD, MD, RD, SD, TD, VD, ZD, AF, DF, FF, GF, HF, LF, MF, RF, SF, TF, VF, ZFKenmore (All model numbers start with 911):
41485991, 41485992, 41485993, 41485994, 41489991,41489992, 41489993, 41489994, 49485992, 49489992, 47692100, 47699100, 47862100, 47869100, 47812200, 47813200, 47814200, 47819200, 47792200, 47793200, 47794200, 47799200 0, 1, 2, 3Sold at: Department and appliance stores from January 2000 to December 2003 for between $1,500 and $2,000.
Manufactured in: United States
Remedy: Consumers should stop using the microwave oven immediately. Consumers should contact GE regarding their GE/GE Profile micro-oven combo or Sears for their Kenmore unit. GE is offering a free repair or rebate on a new product, a $300 rebate toward the purchase of a new GE brand unit, or a $600 rebate toward the purchase of a new GE Profile brand unit. Sears is offering a free repair or $300 rebate toward the purchase of a new Kenmore brand unit. Consumers can continue using the lower thermal oven.
Consumer Contact: For additional information on GE /Profile units, contact General Electric toll-free at (888)-240-2745 from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. ET Monday through Friday, and 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. ET Saturday, or visit GE’s Web site at www.geappliances.com. For additional information on Kenmore units, contact Sears toll-free at (888) 679-0282 from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. ET Monday through Saturday, or visit Sears’ Web site at www.sears.com