Locations of the Main Components in a GE Front Loading Washer

If the door is locked closed and you have to use the emergency rip cord to open the door, then you may need to replace the door latch assembly:

(click it to git it)

This scroll from the famous and coveted Appliantology Archive™ will help you replace it:

Bosch WFMC Washer Door Latch Replacement

Phil wrote:

I am getting the dreaded F70 code on my Whirlpool Duet Sport Washer, model number WFW9200SQ02. I have changed the CCU twice, and changed the R/H User interface with all new parts. Still get F70 and only clicks on the power on button. I checked continuity of the harness between the CCU and Interface and tested ok. I have seen other posts with the same problem with no solution. Anybody know??????

Thanks,

Phil

On your Motor Control Unit (MCU) board (down in the bottom, by the motor) you have a three-blue-wire harness. Pull that harness off and let it hang in the air. Close the door and power the unit up. If prior to removing the harness, you got an F70 error code or three quick beeps when you tried to start it but now, with the harness off, it acts like it is going to run, then you have a bad MCU. Now, mind you– the machine will not run with the blue harness removed, but if it now programs and acts like it’s gonna run, then your MCU is FUBAR.

This is all summarized and illustrated in the photo below, go ahead and download it and send it around to all your friends like they do to you with those stupid jokes or useless photoshopped pictures. Except you’ll be sending out something that’s really useful. You’ll have all the babes flocking around you at parties!

If the MCU proves bad using the test that the Samurai has so graciously and benevolently revealed unto you, then you can return the favor by purchasing the replacement MCU here. If not, then you can buy me a brewski. Domo!

(click it to git it)

This pagelet will help you replace the MCU:

http://fixitnow.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Whirlpool-Duet-Sport-Washer-MCU-Removal.pdf

If the drum in your Maytag Neptune MAH3000 or MAH4000 front loading washer isn’t moving at all, the first thing to do is determine if the problem is in the motor or motor control board or if it’s from a control problem somewhere else in the washer. This test will let you do that:

Maytag Neptune Motor Test

If it does turn out that the problem is either a bad motor or motor control board (most commonly manifested as a burned out fuse on the board) then you’ll need the new, upgraded motor and motor control board set. You can’t just replace the fuse on the control board because the blown fuse is just a symptom of the real underlying problem so it won’t work.

Here’s the upgraded motor / motor control board kit:

(click it to git it)

Steve wrote:

Maytag Atlantis MAVT834AWW-

Fills with water, no agitation. Timer works, goes into spin and the water is pumped out.

Tried other wash settings still same thing. It is a 5 speed so tried all 5 speed settings. Same thing.

During the agitation cycle the motor is humming, if I help it to start it will run. After I help it, all is normal.

Motor hums with the belt off, but will start if I spin the pulley.

This model does not appear to have a start cap, prints say start cap only for export models. Not sure where it comes from so it could be export model but I have not found a cap yet. It runs when it comes to spin so the start windings are good, I think.

I am leaning towards replacing the motor but wanted an appliance tech to chime in here if I am missing something.

Thanks

Steve

Read more: Maytag Atlantis MAVT834AWW, no agitation – The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum – Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help – ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums http://applianceguru.com/forum2/26809.html#ixzz0wdJELaPS

Get appliance parts at http://parts.fixitnow.com

It may be a bad contacts in the Timer. The motor spins one direction for agitate and the other for spin; the motor Start Winding is energized for either direction. The Timer contacts 5 & 6 connect the Start Winding to the proper direction as shown in the schematic (click for larger view). In other words, if this motor starts in spin, it should work in wash.

Try it on another wash cycle.

A way to test this is by taking a two-conductor power cord and adding an extra conductor to each side of the cord so you have two neutrals and two hot conductors. Attach one side of the cord to terminals 1 & 4 and the other side of the cord to terminals 2 & 3. To check low speed agitation move the wire that is on terminal 3 to terminal 5.

Timer part link

Example model numbers affected: WFW9550WW, WFW9600TA

Most common cause for the F35 error code: Using non-HE detergent. Detergent slime builds up in the hose, eventually getting into the analog pressure switch and killing it.

Corrective action: Replace the Analog Pressure Switch. Remove the top panel of washer, the switch is mounted on the right-hand side panel, item 20 in this diagram.

(click it to git it)