Okay, let’s stop all this cryin’ and get scientifical on this bad boy. First, feast your peepers on the diagram below:
(click to enlarge)
Valves 1 and 2 are energized together so the flow from each valve meets smack dab in the middle and flows down the center dispenser chute to the fabric softener cup. If one or the other valve do not work OR if the flow is greater out of one valve compared to the other, then the flow will not meet in the middle and be sent down the center chute. Use the tech sheet taped to the rear panel of the washer and run the diagnostic mode to power each valve and get a visual on the flows. Also, make sure the top of the dispenser above the softener cup is not clogged with softener.
If you have a unit with the MHS model number, it’s the same as the MLE and MHW units. Maytag labeled the washer MHS so they could be tracked at the assembly plant and just to confuse everybody else outside of the assembly plant.
Here are some things to check when this washer isn’t spinning even the though the door lock light is lit:
– The door latch wax motor could have taken out the Machine Control PCB. This was a very common problem back in the “the day” and was a huge débâcle for Maytag. The washer Machine Control board is in the top right hand front corner of the dryer.
– Also check the spin enable switch in the door latch assembly to make sure it’s getting actuated by the wax motor. Sometimes that steel z-spring on the back of the wax motor gets compressed and you need to stretch it a bit. The switch itself may also be bad.
– Check the drum unbalance switches. There are usually three. Two are push button style switches, one on the bottom and one on the right side of the outer drum assembly. If they fail or trip, the machine will not spin. Can also trip due to excessive movement. The third switch is the most common one I have seen fail, called the inertial unbalance switch. It is located on top of the drum and can become oversensitive to movement and cause a redistribution action to occur instead of spinning.
If you need more detailed help troubleshooting this problem, come start a new topic in the Laundry Forum at the Samurai School of Appliantology.
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
These codes in your (made-by-Samsung) Maytag washer might pop up during the rinse/spin cycle with the motor sounding like it wants to spin but it ain’t. In fact, the E3 error code means that the Machine Control wants to make the motor spin but won’t do it because it’s getting a weird reading from the tachometer. This could be because there’s a piece of clothing stuck between the basket and outer drum– open the door and spin the basket by hand to make sure it moves freely. If it doesn’t then there’s either a jammed piece of clothing or, worst case, a burnt out drum bearing– and we’ll deal with these problems at the Samurai School of Appliantology.
If the drum spins by hand, the problem may just be bad wire connection. Turns out the motor harness connector has been a bit of a troublemaker in some vintages of these machines at the washing machine farm in Korea.
Unplug the motor harness connector and pull on each wire. If a wire connector comes loose from the plug, use a small straight slot screw driver and bend the locking tab on the terminal up a tad to help it make a tighter connection.
Also, get some serious eyeball action on the terminals on the motor side of the connector. If you see any bent terminals, use a pair of needle nose pliers to straighten ’em out. Recheck the harness side of the terminal block for bent terminals, too. Bent terminals can indicate a problem with the locking tab inside the plug.
Okay, if the drum movement and motor connections check out, then the only thing that could be causing the problem is that the Hall Sensor connector is not in there goodntight or the Hall Sensor itself is FUBAR (that’s a technical term for, well, let’s just say it means you need to get a new one). The job of the Hall Sensor is to sense the motor’s RPM. It’s a little printed circuit board (PCB) located on the back of the motor in the locations shown below.
Undo the wire harness connector to the Hall Sensor and eyeball it carefully for gookus, rust, moisture… anything that isn’t supposed to be there. Should be a good, clean, tight connection. It it looks good, then the problem boils down to one thang: the Hall Sensor itself.
Now, here’s the kick in the pants: the Hall Sensor is not a separate part; it is an integral part of the motor. Which means if the Hall Sensor is FUBAR, you gotta buy a whole new motor. Oh, don’t worry– ol’ Samurai done sent out a hit team to hunt down the squirrelly engineer who designed it that way. Looks like they got him, too, Hoss. Yeee HAWW!
Anyhoo, here are the part links to the motor and Hall Sensor kits by model:
Example LG model number: WM2277HW but applies to many others.
Sublime Master of Appliantology john63 enumerates the dance steps in this repair for us in the Samurai School of Appliantology:
Possible causes:
1) Damaged/broken wiring at the THERMISTOR PLUG (very common)
2) Weak/Intermittent connection at the THERMISTOR PLUG (add small amount of dielectric grease to plug)
3) Weak/Intermittent connection at PLUG behind CONTROL PANEL (disconnect all plugs behind the “jog dial” add dielectric grease)
4) Failed THERMISTOR (rare)—Should be 2.5 ohms to 180 ohms (changes ohms at differing temperatures)
5) Failed HEATING ELEMENT (rare-but does occur): 10 ohms to 30 ohms
6) Failed MAIN BOARD (rare): 120 volts at HEATER connections during TEST MODE. This test can be performed at the MAIN BOARD connector for the HEATING ELEMENT
The correct MAIN BOARD should be ordered using both the MODEL *and* SERIAL NUMBERS. Several changes occurred on this model during it’s production-run.
Example LG model number: WM2487HWMA but applies to many others.
If you’re having intermittent drain problems or seeing the “OE” error code, you need to get some fingers and eyeballs inside the pump volute and impeller area to see if there’s some gookus in there jamming the pump impeller.
Y’all go grab you a cold one and gather round the campfire to hear Sublime Master john63 from the Samurai School of Appliantology explain how it’s done:
Most likely there’s a small obstruction in the DRAIN MOTOR housing (dime/button etc).
The DRAIN MOTOR is on the *left* side of the washer (if facing the front of the washer)and the RECIRCULATION MOTOR is on the *right* side.
Gaining access to the pump assy can be attempted from the bottom of the washer—but is more difficult due to limited space.
The correct way to do it:
1) Unplug washer
2) Remove 2 lower “phillips” screws from the rear of the *top cover*. The top 2 screws at the rear/top cover secure the plastic brackets to the top cover & need not be removed.
3) Slide the TOP COVER rearward about 2 inches & lift off.
4) Standing in front of the washer—-look behind the CONTROL PANEL. At each corner there’s a “phillips” screw–remove them (some LG washers only use 1 screw at the right-side corner).
5) Slide out & remove the DETERGENT DISPENSER TRAY (press a release tab to allow the drawer to slide out).
6) Remove 2 “phillips” screws from each side of the DISPENSER HOUSING opening/hole (on the control panel)
7) Disconnect the PLUGS to the CONTROL PANEL (behind the large knob/dial).
8 ) Grasp the top edge of the CONTROL PANEL & *snap it* off from the washer & put aside (May require some effort but the plastic is quite strong).
9) Open the door of the washer & remove two “phillips” screws to the DOOR LOCK/LATCH ASSY.
10) Using a *flat screwdriver* pry the DOOR GASKET SPRING from the 6 o’clock position of the gasket. Remove the entire wire/spring type “clamp”.
11) Pull the GASKET from it edges until completely off the FRONT PANEL & fold-over the rubber gasket into the washer tub—out of the way.
12) Remove the ACCESS PANEL on the lower front corner of the washer.
13) Pull the black rubber (small diameter) drain hose form the plastic retainer clip & leave the hose loose.
14) Remove 1 “phillips” screw from the bottom of the *screw-on” strainer cap. Pry out the *plastic housing* completely using a flat screwdriver of puttyknife. Use care not to damage the painted finish around the opening.
15) Remove 2 “phillips” screws below the *screw-on drain strainer cap* & 1 more screw below those.
16) At the top of the FRONT PANEL—there are at least 4 (some have 5) “phillips” screws that secure the FRONT PANEL. Remove all & lift away the entire FRONT PANEL ASSY.
17) Pull the plastic cap off of the *small* drain hose—and using a pan or small cup—remove all remaining water from the tub. Several cupfuls may be needed before fully emptied. Use a large rag/towel to “capture” any remaining water when the *large* STRAINER CAP* is unscrewed & pulled out.
18) Looking at the PUMP ASSY—which has *two* motors on it—-reach behind the center of the PUMP HOUSING & locate / depress a plastic *locking tab*. When this *tab* is pressed downward—the entire PUMP ASSY can be slid rearward about 2 inches & lifted up somewhat.
19) Remove the WIRES to the DRAIN MOTOR & RECIRCULATION MOTORS.
20) Remove the HOSES from the PUMP ASSY & pull out the entire unit.
21) Remove 3 “phillips” screws that secure the PUMP MOTOR to the PUMP BODY.
In most front load washers, including the older Friggidaires, you can get to the drain pump by simply removing a front panel at the bottom. But that was too easy, so in Friggidaire’s latest offering, curiously named the “Affinity,” it’s a go-around-your-elbow-to-get-to-your, uh, kneecap kind of a deal.
The most direct way to get to the drain pump in the Affinity washer is to simply tilt it back and get at it from underneath thru the access port. But if the washer is on a pedestal– increasingly popular these days– you’ll have to get to the pump from the back of the machine.
Either way, a common cause of drain problems in these washers is that the filter in the drain boot gets clogged. Clean it and you should be good to go. Sometimes, a piece of plastic or a nail or something can get lodged in the pump impeller– that’ll cause the pump to not run.
Some example indications that the touchpad and control panel on your Maytag FAV6800 or FAV9800 washer may be flakey are:
1) When the panel powers up it automatically defaults to colors/jeans mode, no matter what it had been on previously.
2) The indicator lights for Superwash, Whites, and Spin are always dimly lit.
3) Normal and Superwash cannot be selected; the panel beeps multiple times when you push these buttons instead of the single beep.
4) When you push Wrinkleguard, problem 3 (above) occurs. If you push it multiple times it will select then the machine starts without hitting the start button. The remaining buttons function properly.
5) The machine may appear to wash/spin properly. There may or may not be error codes in the display.
These are just a few examples and are not meant to be an exhaustive or definitive list. Because the touchpad and control panel affect all the functions of the washer, the symptoms can vary widely. But this post will help you test the touchpad and control panel so you can confirm or eliminate it as a problem.
To begin with, you’ll need the techsheet that came with your washer. It’s cleverly hidden inside the control panel. Remove the obvious retaining screws to open the control panel and there it be, just aching for the furtive caress of your engorged and tingling eyeballs.
No gotty the techsheet because some unscrupulous scoundrel absconded it away? Fret thou not, my leetle grasshoppah, the Samurai’s got your six; here’s the pinout diagram you need:
Armed with this roadmap, you can check out all the button functions on the touchpad. What usually happens is that one of the buttons will get stuck open or closed. What you’re gonna do is test each button function to make sure the resistance at it’s ribbon pads changes when you press it.
You’ll need to set up alligator clips to attach to the ribbon pads and then to your meter probes. Here’s the rig you’ll set up to make the test:
Now when you press the button corresponding to the ribbon connector pins where your probes are connected (as determined from the ribbon pinout diagram I so thoughtfully provided above), you should see the resistance go from something very high, like mega-ohms or infinite to something very low, like close to zero; even a reading in the double-digit ohm (not mega-ohms or kilo-ohms!) is okay, as shown below:
BTW, this technique is useful for any appliance with a touchpad and ribbon connector– dryers, ovens, dishwashers, etc.– it’s part of any Master Appliantologist’s basic troubleshooting arsenal.
You may just find some crudus and gookus built up on the ribbon connector pads. You can usually clear this with a pink pencil eraser. If that doesn’t work, then you’ll need to replace the touchpad and control board assembly; come buy it at RepairClinic and you’ll get a 365-day return policy!
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
The LG front loading washers don’t use your typical belt and motor drive arrangement to move the wash basket. Instead, they use an ingenious, magnetic drive system consisting of an stator and a rotor; more about these in this post.
A Hall Effect sensor is used to let the control board know the position and speed of the drum rotor in these washer. in earlier versions, Hall Effect sensors were a common-fail item because, despite shelling out over a $1,000 for a top-notch washing machine, people would try to save a few pennies by not using HE detergent despite the manufacturers clear instructions to do so. Can you say, “penny wise, dollar dumb?” More about using non-HE detergents in this post. BTW, using non-HE detergents in your high-efficiency front loading washer is also a great way to help bring on early drum bearing failure.
Anyway, Sublime Master john63 in the Samurai School of Appliantology enlightens us with some background info on the Hall Effect sensors in LG washers and their design changes in response to boneheads who refuse to use HE detergent:
Older LG washers had a weaker version of the sensor.
Newer (late ’07/early ’08) LG washers have a HALL EFFECT SENSOR with a more “ROBUST” resistor.
Both different sensors have the same part number but a different color *dot* on it.
All older sensors were destroyed & should not be in any inventory.
Part of the SUDS detection software is thru the HALL EFFECT SENSOR.
Most failed/failing HALL EFFECT SENSORS will trigger an “LE” error–but not always. On occasion–the motor will *growl* or exhibit a pronounced labored-effort sound.
Incorrect type and/or amount of detergent use—destroys the older HALL EFFECT SENSORS. Newer sensors are nearly immune to the higher electrical load placed upon it (suds drags/slows tub during high-speed spin).
A common-fail item in Fisher Paykel top loading washers is the diverter valve. This little doodad switches the water discharge flow from the pump to either recirculate in the tub or to drain out the drain hose. If you’re having problems either draining water or water coming into the tub and the draining right out, the first thing to check is the diverter valve.
Scholar of Advanced Appliantological Studies, DADoESTX, in the Samurai School of Appliantology, shares with us a quick and easy test of the diverter valve and control board:
If it’s recirculating properly for the Eco Active wash period, and continuing to recirculate during drain, then either the diverter is physically bad/jammed from switching position … or the controller board may be bad, sending power to the diverter continuously.
Fill the machine with water, then disconnect it from power for a while to insure the diverter is cooled and switched to drain mode (assuming it’s not jammed). Connect power and quickly set the machine to the final spin. If it drains without recirculating, the diverter is switching modes properly. Pause the cycle for a few minutes, restart the final spin again. If it recirculates, then the diverter has switched modes due to receiving power when it shouldn’t– bad control board.
Note also that the diverter can be activated/tested in Diagnostic Mode with the Delicate cycle button (same as Regular cycle button operates the pump). Delicate by itself only turns the diverter on or off (takes a couple mins for the wax motor to heat/cool and shift the valve). The pump must also be run to get either recirculation or draining.
IWL (Intuitive Eco) models, Fabric Care button runs the pump, Home buttons runs the diverter.
On some older LG front loading washing machines, you’ll see a button called “Spin Sense.” The instructions on the panel say to press and hold for three seconds to activate. When you do, you’ll hear a chime but the machine seems to run the same way and you can’t even tell if the feature is working. Wassup w’dat “Spin Sense” bidness?
Sublime Master john63 from the Samurai School of Appliantology enlightens us with some background information on the Spin Sense™ technology:
SPIN SENSE is an older LG washer option.
Before the introduction of LGs “True Balance” technology (balance ring & inertia sensor)–the SPIN SENSE option was available.
For reasons that I’ve never been able to find—all LG washers were shipped from the factory with the SPIN SENSE option “disabled”.
To “enable” SPIN SENSE—Power on the washer. Select any cycle. Press the Start Button. Wait for the door to lock–single “click” sound. Press & hold a selector button (which indicates spin sense) for 3 to 6 seconds.
The SPIN SPEED indicator light will blink “on” & “off”. If the SPIN SPEED indicator does NOT blink at all—SPIN SENSE is not active (disabled).
Once SPIN SENSE has been enabled—it will remain so permanently (SPIN SPEED indicator light always blinks after door locks). To deactivate SPIN SENSE–simply repeat the procedure used to “enable” it. The SPIN SPEED indicator will stop “blinking”.
HOW DOES SPIN SENSE WORK?
The SPIN SENSE feature is primitive by today’s standards.
For the most part—SPIN SENSE does absolutely *nothing* unless a certain condition occurs—a violent imbalanced spin.
At which point the MAIN BOARD will slow down the spin speed by 50 RPM to reduce the severity of the imbalanced spin.
You may or may not see a fault code with this problem. Here’s an example of how this problem appeared to a Grasshopper in the Samurai School of Appliantology:
After shutting the door and pushing start on the washer you can hear the door locking mechanism engage and a quick check of the door shows that the door is indeed locked. Once the door locks the typical “hum” that is heard at the beginning of the cycle is heard and you can also hear what I assume is relays or a relay engaging but you never hear water flowing and within about 10-15 seconds the cycle stops and the door unlocks. No error codes are displayed.
In situations like this, it’s always a good idea to put the washer control console into service mode and see if there are any error codes that may be stored there. Here’s how:
READING ERROR CODES:
1. Wake the washer by pressing any button.
2. Wait 5 seconds.
3. Press and HOLD the Start/Pause and Cancel buttons simultaneously.
As long as the buttons are held, the failure code will appear in the display as an E followed by two numbers, a number and a letter or two letters. The control will beep and the Door Lock, Wash, Rinse, and Final Spin indicator lights will flash.
Quick Check
If there is no error displayed and the washer momentarily starts then turns back off:
1. Listen for a relay closure inside the motor control shortly after the Start/Pause key is pressed. If this happens, the motor control has power.
2. Check the 5 pin connector wiring between the console control and the motor control.
NOTE: During normal operation, the display may show:
“SAn” – deep clean (Sanitary Cycle)
“cd” – cool down (Sanitary cycle)
“do” or “dr” – door problem.
“Err” – an error has been detected.
“LOC” – control lock is activated.
“PAU” – cycle has been interrupted.
BTW, I’m getting all this good info from the tech sheet that comes supplied with every Frigidaire and Electrolux washing machine and is cleverly hidden inside the cabinet of the machine. Remove the toe panel to get to it. If someone “borrowed” yours and forgot to return it, you can borrow mine; just be sure to return it!
Some models of Affinity washers, such as ATF7000EG0, have a water heating element to boost water temperature. The element is mounted in the bottom of the outer tub. If there’s a problem with the water heating circuit, you’ll see an error code E68 in the display while in service mode. This means, “Current leakage to ground on heater or fuse opened.”
In reality, most the time you’ll see the heating element simply fail open as heating elements are prone to do. You can check continuity of the element from the back of the washer. Remove the back panel and look to the bottom of the tub, you’ll see the heating element terminals like ahso:
1. Wake the washer by pressing any button.
2. Wait 5 seconds.
3. Press and HOLD the Start/Pause and Cancel buttons simultaneously.
As long as the buttons are held, the failure code will appear in the display as an E followed by two numbers, a number and a letter or two letters. The control will beep and the Door Lock, Wash, Rinse, and Final Spin indicator lights will flash.
Quick Check
If there is no error displayed and the washer momentarily starts then turns back off:
1. Listen for a relay closure inside the motor control shortly after the Start/Pause key is pressed. If this happens, the motor control has power.
2. Check the 5 pin connector wiring between the console control and the motor control.
NOTE: During normal operation, the display may show:
“SAn” – deep clean (Sanitary Cycle)
“cd” – cool down (Sanitary cycle)
“do” or “dr” – door problem.
“Err” – an error has been detected.
“LOC” – control lock is activated.
“PAU” – cycle has been interrupted.
“Neutral drain” refers to the mechanical feature of the transmission in the Whirlpool-built direct drive washers to keep the basket from spinning– in neutral– while the tub is being drained. The reasons for doing this are obvious:
– reduce wear and tear on the washer’s drive components, the motor, coupler, clutch, and transmission and
– to prevent the possibility of water riding up the the side of the basket and sloshing over as the basket comes up to speed.
The two most common causes for messing up the neutral and letting the basket spin during pump out are either a bad transmission or a bad timer. But determining which one is the bad actor is the tricky part. But that’s why we professional appliantologists makes the big money.
See if you can snatch these pebbles from my hand…
A properly functioning wash cycle in these machines consists of:
Fill==> Agitate==> Drain==> Pause==> Spin (repeat for rinse cycle)
If the washer immediately starts to spin and drain, then you need either a
Sublime Master of Appliantology john63 sums this up with a nice, succinct rule-of-thumb:
Any time that a Whirlpool / Kenmore direct-drive washer fails to *neutral drain* after 3 minutes of agitation (at room temperature) the transmission is the culprit.
Replacing the neutral drain kit, while less expensive, is much more time consuming and requires disassembling the transmission, replacing the neutral drain assembly, refilling it with transmission oil and then reinstalling in the washer. Professional servicers almost never do this because the time consumed would quickly exceed the cost of replacing the transmission; so simple economics dictates that professional servicers replace the entire transmission since this is a relatively fast and easy job.
Replacing the transmission as a unit is also a more reliable repair because other things can and do go wrong with the transmission. For example, if the there is a pause after draining but the washer never goes into spin (and the motor is running, of course), then the transmission is shot and need to be replaced; this failure is not related to the neutral drain assembly.
Here’s a good video on how to replace the transmission:
