Starting to see these fault codes pop up in these otherwise fine machines. The F/11 code is just a generic code generated when there’s a communications error between the two main control boards in the washer. These two boards are the Motor Control Unit (MCU) and the Central Control Unit (CCU).

A common problem is the wiring harness jiggling loose; remove and reseat it and that usually fixes it. If not, then you’re looking at spending some money on control boards. Yes, I said boards, plural. The really sucky part is that there’s no way to definitively and conclusively prove which board, the MCU or the CCU, is at fault so, unfortunately, that only leaves the parts changing monkey method: replace both boards 🙁 (in violation of Samurai’s Ichiban Law of Appliance Repair, I might add… before you do. ;))

But, on a brighter note, the electronics are covered under warranty for 24 months. If your machine is older that this, then you’ll need to shell out some shekels.

The F/H code means the unit isn’t detecting water fill at the flowmeter. The flowmeter sits just in front of the inlet valve and is attached via a hose, and off to the left of the CCU. Part link to the flow meter==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Flowmeter/1381535?modelNumber=GHW9250MW2

If your washer is filling ok, check the wiring from the flow meter to the control board; I’ve seen this harness jiggle loose and cause problems.

For more detailed info, the service manual for this washer is excellent.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

The shocks are removed by lifting the plastic locking tabs, grabbing hold of the upper portion of the shock and twisting CCW very hard 1/4 turn. Slide the shocks back together and reinstall the opposite way.

Sometimes, the shock can be tighter than a flea’s azz to turn and remove. In these cases, I’ll use a pair of channel locks to remove them. Here’s a fine point of technique: set the jaw space on the pliers to the same width as the shock. Grab the shock near the top where it meets the outer tub. Don’t squeeze the shock with the channel lock pliers because you’ll deform it and then you’ll be one pissed off cracker ‘cuz you’ll have to buy a whole new shock. Just hold the shock tight enough so that you can use the pliers as a handle to turn it.

In case you do screw up the shocks or if they’re already broken, you can buy replacement shocks here. For even more information, get the repair manual.

These washers have been around long enough that we’re starting to see drum bearing and seal failures. Maytag has come out with a reasonably-priced bearing and seal replacement kit.

While you’ve got it torn down, might as well replace the belt.

Intimidated by this job? There, there, my leetle grasshopper, not to worry– the Maytag Neptune washer service manual is excellent and will hold your hand throughout this entire ordeal. Come git you one.

Rear Bearing Tech Bulletin

If you suspect the transmission in your Maytag Atlantis or Performa is bad (and it wouldn’t be first… or the hundredth… you get my drift?) this topic in the repair forum will help you determine with certitude whether or not it really is bad.

Couple common causes for this little nuisance which I discuss ad nauseum ratcheer.

Every now and then, someone posts a botched repair story that’s just so messed up that it’s worth sharing here. In this one, our hapless grasshopper is attempting to replace the drive coupler in his washer and employs a technique that we professional appliantologists call, “Going around your elbow to get to your azzhole.” Let’s enjoy:

Motor coupler broke. Unplugged the washer and raised it up on automotive jack stands. Pried off clips to loosen water pump. Removed screws and clips to loosen motor. Removed three bolts that hold the gearbox assembly to the stuff above it. This allowed it to drop down and twist so I could easily remove the pump and motor. Removed old coupler and replaced w/new. Re-installed motor and water pump. Then, I was unable to raise the gearbox assembly back high enough to re-thread the three bolts. It’s about half an inch too low for the bolts to thread.

Hoooold on there, Bubbalouie! This is one of the easiest repairs in the whole appliance universe. All you gotta do is remove the cabinet, pop off the pump and motor and, budda-bing budda-boom, you’re right there at the coupler! This is a 15-minute repair even if everything goes wrong! Compare our grasshopper’s report with the elegant simplicity of doing it the right way.

Whatever became of our hoodooed grasshopper and his star-crossed washer? You can read all about his current mis-adventures here.

This washer was made by Whirlpool, so the following tidbits also apply to the Whirlpool Duet washer. But, since it has a Kenmore label slapped on it, you’ll have to deal with Sears if this is a warranty issue– this is a good thang because you’ll learn what good service is by experiencing really crappy service.

F11

Communication between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the Motor Control Unit (MCU) cannot be sent correctly.

F DL

A Door Lock Error occurs if the door cannot be locked. It will try to lock it six times before displaying the error code.

This is from the tech sheet found under the top of the washer… or you can borrow mine, just be sure to return it. 😉

Thanks to Pegi for posting this in the repair forum.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

This in not good news and, for the quality and replacement cost of this machine, is usually a terminal illness. Most likely this is tub seal and bearing failure, but wait! there’s more– the problem could also be the clutch or the transmission. Two Sublime Masters in the repair forum explain.

One dead giveaway is metal shavings under the agitator. Sublime Master Willie has some tips for installing the new drive block.

If you’re not familiar with the innards of these washers, properly diagnosing transmission problems and distinguishing them from other drive train or even control problems can be a real trick for the uninitiated. For example, your washer doesn’t spin or agitate but you hear and maybe even see the motor running. BTW, one sure sign that the motor is running, even if the tub ain’t moving, is if the washer pumps water outta the tub. See, the motor shaft sticks right into the pump so when the pump’s pumpin’, the motor’s gotta be motorin’.

But here’s a simple way of determining whether the problem is with your washer’s transmission or some other part like a clutch or a drive coupler.

Remove the cabinet and jumper the lid switch (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then problem is in the clutch, basket drive or the tub drive block.

If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem with motor coupling or one of its retainers. You need to actually remove the motor to do this properly– eyeballing it from underneath just don’t cut it, Slick.

If all that looks good, then you need a new transmission.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Sublime Master Appliantologist Willie in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forum illumines us with this handy quick check of the transmission in a Frigidaire top-loading washer:

Here’s how to check the transmission by hand. I forget which way to turn for agitate and spin but you should be easily able to figure that out.

Try to turn the main inner spin basket by hand, it should turn nice and smooth and easy in one direction and total lock if you try to turn in the opposite direction. Now if that test is successfull meaning the clutch/bearing or clutch/spring hasn’t failed then the direction that the tub turns is the direction it should be turning when spinning.

Now that you know what direction to turn it for spin, try to turn the transmission pulley by hand in that direction, the pulley should be locked and turn the whole complete transmission and spin basket with the pulley.

Now try to turn the pulley in the opposite direction, (which should be agitate), the pulley should turn real easy and the transmission should stay stationary and the agitator should be going back and forth, (very slowly of coarse since you can’t turn it fast by hand — you might need someone else to watch and make sure the agitator is moving). If the pulley locks up or is very hard to turn by hand in the agitate direction then you have a bad transmission.

If this test seems to work ok then you will most likely be ok with replacing the idler pulley and belt. This should give you a couple more years use out of the machine if the main tub seal or the lower clutching bearing or spring doesn’t fail.

This new washer offered by Kenmore is actually manufactured by Fisher Paykel. You can read some service tips on this washer here.

Some good troubleshooting tips and techniques explained by a Master.