For any front loading washer with a draining problem, the first things to check for are a clogged pump or drain hose. But Bosch, always wanting to be different, adds another little Gotcha to their washers that’s not well-known but can also cause poor or no-draining problems. Sublime Master denrayr reveals this esoteric kata unique to Bosch washing machines:
There is a big ball in the hose that connects [the pump] to the tub. This ball is there to act as a one way valve to prevent dirty water from enterin the tub. Sometimes this ball will get stuck due to dirt or other contaminents. Remove the ball and clean it and the hose and reinstall.
You may have seen the LG combo washer dryers the last time you were looking at appliances. They’re all the rage among city dwellers where space in those tiny studio apartments is a rare and precious commodity because the washer and dryer are combined into one machine. While they do save on space, don’t expect it to act exactly like a stand-alone washer dryer set.
A Grasshopper in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums recently scored a good deal on a used LG WM3431HW combo washer dryer and asked about some noticeable differences in how these machines run compared to stand-alone washers and dryers. Sublime Master john63 gives a good summary of the differences. Let’s listen in…
I was wondering if i have a problem cause the clothes are not coming out dry like a standard dryer does.
*******************************
This is a combo washer and dryer all-in-one.
The dryer is of the condensate-dry type (no external dryer exhaust vent system).
The dry cycle can take (depending on fabric type) 3 to 6 hours to dry laundry.
Open the door to the tub—you’ll notice a black slash mark near the opening which indicates 2/3rd full.
Dry laundry should not be loaded into the tub higher than this mark—or the wet laundry will take an abnormal amount of (for a condensate dryer) time to dry—or not dry completely.
If the unit is more than a year old—it may be necessary to clean out the condensate DUCT.
Remove the rear access panel. On the left side of the tub—remove the DUCT where it attaches to the bottom of the tub & remove any / all lint accumulation.
********************************
Also i was wondering if you should be hearing the water turning on and off in the dry cycle ?
********************************
Normal.
During the dry cycle—a special cold water misting valve sprays into the condensate DUCT. This converts steam from the wet laundry in the tub back to liquid—to be drained by the drain motor—which turns on & off intermittently.
*********************************
I was doing some reasearch on a “Cd” error. From what i have been reading it is a cool down process not an error am i correct ?
Replacing the door boot in a Bosch washer is a pretty straight-forward job; this little cheat sheet shows the basic disassembly and gets you most of the way there==> http://db.tt/OFujKrn
The one little detail they gloss over is getting the spring-loaded door boot retaining ring back on. This seemingly innocuous and trivial procedure has been the source of much spleen-venting for both Grasshoppers and Master Appliantologists alike. Well, you just go grab you a cold brewski and a small screwdriver and sing along with Master Appliantologist Delawaredrew as he shares some tips for getting the retaining ring back on:
Place spring clamp around seal partway, making sure one end of the spring is behind lip, and nearly 1/2 of the left side of the clamp is in position. I usually locate spring at bottom so I can hold the spring behind the lip with my left hand and use my elbow to hold top side of clamp behind the lip. SO left hand down holding one end of spring, left elbow holding wire behind lip towards top and free right hand.
Insert the screwdriver into loop on clamp where spring attaches. Gripping the shaft of the driver near the tip to stop spring from sliding up it and allowing you to keep the spring from pulling away from washer, you can the stretch spring enough to allow rest of clamp to drop behind the lip. It’ll take some force to stretch it, and might take a few attempts to get the hang of it but it is easy once you get the trick down.
—->Point the screwdriver tip slightly in the direction you want to stretch the spring, do not lead with the handle end as it will likely pop out and you’ll gouge the front of your machine (ask me how I know this!) Make sure screw driver is large enough not to slide out of the loop sideways but not too large to slip though the hole in the loop.
In addition to the washer dancing around and the top banging during the spin cycle, another sure sign that the snubber assembly is bad in your Maytag Performa washer is a bunch of white shavings around the main drive pulley.
The photo below shows an example of what you might see if your Maytag Performa washer snubber assembly is worn down:
What you see in the photo above are the snubber ring shavings. There is a small raised bead around the ring and when it wears away, it allows the milkstool to drop down an extra 1/4 inch which, in turn, makes the spring tension way to week to keep any type of load balanced without the machine beating itself to death or trying to walk out of the house.
While this isn’t a very difficult job, it does require a complete tear down of the machine.
Sublime Master Willie, from the Samurai School of Appliantology, offers these sage pearls of wisdom to assist you in your repair odyssey:
When I do this job, I remove all the motor wiring and pull the drain hose back into the cabinet and remove the complete outer cabinet.
Then to remove the springs I use metal electric outlet boxes, (6 of them, one for each spring), wedge a box into each spring so they will stay stretched when you remove them. Then gently pull the tub towards each spring as you carefully remove it being carefull not to pull the boxes out of the springs. When you reinstall each spring make sure you get the spring hook in the base plate back up thru the holes and lean the tub towards each spring as you reinstall each one.
Once the wash tub and milkstool assembly is out, turn it upside down on two 4×4’s so it sits nice and sturdy to work on.
Now this is where you need to be very carefull. The brake stator that holds the snubber ring in place is held on by 6 5/16″ bolts and that brake is under like 200pounds of pressure. Carefully back out each screw just a couple of turns, (you will need to back them all out about halfway, just go slow and even and make sure none come all the way out), until you can wiggle the snubber ring out from under the stator and reinstall the new one, tighten the six bolts back down.
Clean the snubber ring surface and the base plate real good with rubbing alcohol and then sprinkle some corn starch on the base plate where the snubber ring rides and put it all back together.
Here’s the part you need: CLICK HERE to see and/or order
I am trying to replace the clutch in my Maytag Neptune fav6800aw top load washer and I need some more info. I read the forum on this topic but I do not see how to remove the front panel and how to replace the clutch with out removing the tub.
Brett
Ahh, Grasshoppah, it is the Samurai’s greatest joy to reveal this most sublime and esoteric of katas to you. Embrace your favorite putty knife tenderly and try to snatch this grain of rice from my hand:
(click to enlarge)
Very good! Now you are ready for the more advanced scroll of Appliantological wisdom which reveals the ancient and mystical kata of replacing the clutch in these sodden dragons. Behold the wisdom of the Master:
This excursion into appliance repair error code cryptology applies to the Frigidaire-built “Affinity” line of front loading washers and Kenmore models with the 417 prefix in the model number (such as 417.48102701).
You turn on the washer by pressing the POWER button and the START light is flashing repeatedly telling you that there is an error condition. Now you have to put the washer into diagnostic mode to get the error code.
To get into diagnostic mode, press and hold both the START and POWER buttons at the same time until the lights go out and come back on, just takes a few seconds. The panel will immediately start flashing the error code. Again, both the START and STATUS lights will begin flashing at the same time, showing you the error code.
Deciphering these error codes can be confusing even for seasoned appliance repair warriors. But this little post should clear up the confusion for you.
Let’s start with the instructions from Le Manual:
The STATUS indicator lights will flash the number of times for the first digit of the code and the START indicator light will flash the number of times for the second digit. The code is obtained by counting the number of times the lights flash.
Now, two key things to keep in mind when deciphering the code:
1. The START light is not one of the STATUS lights; they are two different things. The START light is a single light above the diamond-shaped START button and the STATUS lights are the column of five lights to the right of the START light and above the round POWER button. Even though the STATUS lights are on the right-hand side, it flashes the first digit of the error code so you have to switch ’em in your head after you do the flash count.
2. When the machine displays the error codes, the START and STATUS lights will begin flashing the code at the same time, not independently.
Okay, ready for a pop quiz? See if you can figure out what error code is being flashed in this video. The video begins with the machine off. When it’s turned on, the START light is blinking continusly indicating and error condition and then the washer is put into diagnostic mode, as explained above, and the error code is flashed. The process is then repeated.
Think you got it? The correct answer is on the back of your computer monitor. Just kidding! The correct answer is error code 43: The STATUS lights are blinking four times and the START light is blinking three times.
Awwite, go fix that washer!
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
These hard-won service tips from the field apply to the Frigidaire Affinity front loading washer and to Kenmore front loaders with a model number prefix of 417. Loose connections and pinched wires are common causes for this problem. Here are the top four things to check gleaned from actual hand-to-hand combat with these washers:
1. Check all the connections on your speed control board (inside the cabinet, mounted to one side, has wires going to the motor), the one connector with the small wires has no locking tab and likes to come loose.
2. Try unplugging the wires to the motor and plugging them back in.
3. There is a wiring harness to the speed control board that gets pinched by the tub going off balance; it’s the one with the thin wires, when looking through the back panel. Look for where the tub would hit the speed board and right between there is where the friggineers routed the smallest wires in the machine. CAUTION: the edge around that opening is as sharp as a razor! I suggest placing black tape all around the edge on that side.
4. Broken pump wires, of all weird things, have been known to cause this error. May be accompanied by one of the errors above.
If all that checks out and no joy, then my rule of thumb for Friggidaires applies: if the error code is in the 40′s, replace the door latch assembly.
– Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
Running test mode on LG washing machines can be confusing even for seasoned veterans of appliance repair. Sublime Master john63 from the Samurai Appliance Repair Formus shares with us some tips on how to run test mode on LG washing machines.
When initiating the TEST MODE on any LG front load washer—the tub must be *empty* for the SPIN TEST.
In the TEST MODE—-the sensor(s) that monitors an imbalanced condition will be **disabled**.
If the TEST MODE is intiated and there’s laundry in the tub during the *SPIN TEST*— the tub will spin violently.
The *correct* method for testing a SPIN CYCLE with laundry would be:
This procedure is for the Whirlpool Duet (not the Duet “Sport”) and Kenmore HEt front load washers. Example Whirlpool model numbers: GHW9100L GHW9200L GHW9150
Manually Unlocking the Door Lock System
1. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
2. Remove the lower kick panel.
3. Reach up along the inside of the front and locate the bottom of the door switch/lock unit.
4. Located on the bottom of the door switch/lock unit is a tear-drop shaped tab.
5. Gently pull the tab down about a ¼” or until a click is heard.
6. The door may be opened.
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
International Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology Fellow, Willie, recently offered these troubleshooting tips in the Samurai School of Appliantology. Y’all gather ’round, chillin’, and let’s listen in:
This appears to be a HE2T Kenmore – a Whirlpool Duet ‘SPORT’.
It’s very important to have all the panels in place or if not in place and testing remove ground switch and wrap with electrical tape to keep switch closed while testing.
If any of the grounding wires that go thru the front or rear panel ground switch are broken or the switches are bad, (OR PANELS OFF), you will get a F28 error.
____________________
William Burk (Willie)
Willie’s Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
First, seat the rubber boot into the groove of the door, it will stay there. Then put the wire clamp on three quarters of the way from the 10 o’clock position to the 6 o’clock position. Make sure the wire is properly in the groove. Then hold the 10 o’clock position of the wire with your right hand and the 6 o’clock position with your right knee and pull the spring apart with a hooked dental pick or similar type tool with your left hand and slip it into the rest of the door boot groove. It’s so easy a caveman could do it but that’s just my opinion.
