Model numbers starting with GSD, such as GSD6660G00SS.

Most “no-pump-out”? issues are solved by cleaning out a plugged air gap, drain hose or disposer. However, on GE dishwashers with a rear filter, “no-pump-out”? may also be caused by a malfunctioning piston and nut assembly, located underneath the rear filter. To save time, effort and repeat service calls, always inspect the piston and nut assembly when diagnosing a “no-pump-out” complaint.

The piston and nut assembly has an integral check valve, shaped like an umbrella, which closes the collection chamber inlet during pump out. If the check valve is damaged, held open by debris or assembled upside down, water will circulate inside the tub instead of going down the drain. Cleaning a clogged valve or replacing a defective one will solve the problem. This check valve is very inexpensive, especially given that it’s a GE. Come git you one.

If the piston and nut check valve assembly is functioning normally, verify operation of other parts of the drain system. Those parts include the dual pump check valve on models with a three port collection chamber, the adapter check valve at the outlet of the collection chamber, the solenoid/gate valve mechanism on the main pump and both the main pump and dual pump, if equipped.

To learn more about your dishwasher, or to order parts, click here.

You may need to know this little trick when trying to repair a Maytag dishwasher with a drain problem. This trick applies to Maytag dishwashers with model numbers starting with PDB, such as PDB2430AWE.

After checking the usual suspects, check the drain solenoid. Two tests are required here: first, check the continuity of the solenoid coil; second, make sure it’s getting 120vac during the drain cycle. If either condition fails, then replace the drain solenoid.

Now, here’s where the trick comes in. You may find that, after replacing the solenoid (or before!), the solenoid plunger flings out when it’s time to drain. Dontcha hate when that happens? The solution is stunningly simple and, best of all, the part costs less than a buck. How’s that for the deal of the day?

The problem is a broken lifter; you can see it in this diagram as item 23.

To replace this humble little part, first take off the top cover on the dishwasher motor. Do this by unscrewing the tower, removing the spray arm and pulling the cover off. Again, refer to this diagram. Once you get all that schtookus outta the way, you’ll expose the lifter linkage. You can tell the lifter is bad (or as we professional appliantologists like to say, “Vees badden”… that’s a little German lingo fer ya) because it should be in the shape of an “L.” If’n it ain’t, then the metal arm of item 34 will have too wide a range of motion and, as a result, the solenoid plunger will drop out.

You can buy the all-important lifter here.

Installing a new motor-pump assembly into this dishwasher can be a difficult job for the limp-of-wrist and wet-of-bed. But gird up your loins like a man and the Samurai, lo, even the Samurai himself, shall lead you unto the Promised Land.

Can I hear an “Amen?”

Yeah, whatever. Freak.