In this video, Samurai Appliance Repair Man, shows you how to troubleshoot a problem with a newer Whirlpool front load washer (one of the new Alpha2 platform washers) that acts like it wants to start but won’t. Watch with shock and awe as the Samurai ruthlessly hunts down the miscreant part like a mad dog and guides you through the troubleshooting process both on the physical machine itself and the schematic diagram, illustrating a graceful but deadly use of the continuity test to pinpoint the problem.

Here’s the door latch assembly I replaced to fix this washer.

Your Name: Emily

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: Frigidaire

Model Number: FWS223RFS1

Your Precious Words:
The machine squealed during the spin cycle on two separate occasions. I stopped and resettled the clothes and it was fine. Today it doesn’t spin at all. I have checked the belt and it looks fine. I have not yet investigated the pulley drive. I’m curious if it might be the timer. You mention the lid switch as a possibility. Which way should I investigate first (I’ll need to borrow tools). Thanks. I bow before to the Samurai Warrior of Appliance Repair. Cheers

The squealing noise is almost certainly the spin bearing, an inexpensive part and actually not hard at all to replace. And as long as you’ve got the machine torn down to replace the spin bearing, might as well replace the tub seal assembly while you’re at it because the leaking tub seal is probably what made the spin bearing go bad. Here are videos showing you how to replace these parts…

The no-spin condition is a little trickier because it could simply be the spin bearing is locked up, in which case, replacing it as shown above will take care of it. Or, it could be something else like a bad lid switch. You might want to go ahead and buy the lid switch at the some time you buy the spin bearing and tub seal so you’ll have it on hand. If it turns out you don’t need the lid switch, return it for a refund!

Replace the spin bearing and tub seal first because you definitely need to. If the washer still doesn’t spin, then go ahead and replace the lid switch, too. This video shows you how…

You had asked about the timer; there’s a very small possibility that the timer is bad but I think it’s very unlikely because I usually see the timers fail in a different way than what you’re describing. Lid switch, spin bearing, and tub seal are the most likely culprits. If you want to make sure, you can use you’re meter and see if you’re getting 120vac on the lid switch wire harness. We can give you details on how to do this in the Appliantology Appliance Repair Forums.

Your Name: Madonna

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: Whirlpool Duet Sport

Model Number: WFW8300SW01

Your Precious Words:
Have been getting SD error followed by F-21 error. Manually drained washer and checked for anything in the drain pump filter, nothing there. Plugged back in and did drain/spin cycle and the washer would drain. After manually draining this time and starting drain/spin cycle, just heard a hum. The drain motor was previously very load. It didn’t drain and this time I got a F-33 error and noticed the drain pump was very warm to the touch.

All of the error codes and symptoms you’re describing, including the loud drain pump, are all classic signs of one thing: replace the drain pump.

One of the characteristics of these washers is that when the drain pump starts making loud buzzing or grinding noises while running, the bearings in it are shot and the pump is no longer moving water out fast enough. The control board senses this and throws the various error codes you’re seeing, as if screaming out, “Replace my drain pump now!”

Here’s the replacement drain pump you need, comes with a one year return policy.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Your Name: Rob

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: Frigidaire

Model Number: GLTF2940es0

Your Precious Words:
Machine won’t spin. Ran though the diagnostics and it said code e47 – board thinks PTC circuit is open. From reading forums, I think I need a new wax motor, but I’m not sure which part number that is or what it looks like. Can you help? Thanks

The rule of thumb on Frigidaire front loaders is that for any error code in the 40’s, replace the lock assembly. I replace so many of them that I make sure to keep at least two on the Guru Mobile at all times. Here’s the door latch assembly you need:

Buy the new door latch assembly here and it comes with a one year return policy. In other words, if you install it and it doesn’t fix it (but it will), you can return it for a refund.

Watch The Appliance Guru in action as he shows you a special troubleshooting trick and how to replace it:

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Your Name: felecia

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: Whrilpool Duet HT

Model Number: GHW9300PW4

Your Precious Words:
did a load of laundry came back threw it in the dryer and went to start another load and I noticed the control lock button is on. Now my washer is basically frozen. I tried unplugging and holding down the start and cancel buttons.

Piece of pie, tovarish! Press and hold the End of Cycle Signal button for 3 seconds. On some models, you need to hold it down for 5 seconds.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Your Name: Claudia

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: Amana

Model Number: NFW7200TW

Your Precious Words:
My Amana NFW7200TW washer will not power on. I had loaded a small load, heard it start to fill, then walked away for an hour. When I returned NO power.
I have power at the receptical, but unpluged it overnight. Checked water lines, one filter was plugged, so I cleaned it. Still no power.

If you confirmed that you have power at the receptacle (by using a meter or plugging in a lamp or something else) then it’s time to crawl into the belly of the beast. Actually, we’ll just be going into the control panel so it’s probably more accurate to say the “brain of the beast” but that just didn’t have the same rhythm and imagery that I was going for.

This is pretty easy to do. Just unplug the washer, remove the top panel, dispenser drawer, and a couple of screws in the front of the control panel, then tilt the control panel forward. These steps are demonstrated in this video.

Next, plug the washer back in and use your meter to check for 120vac at the control board in the locations listed in the image below in the “AC Power Check” section. Click the image for a larger view that opens in a new window.

If you’re getting 120vac up to the board and lights or anything on the control console, then you need to replace the control board. You can buy the replacement board here with a one year return guarantee.

If you’re not getting voltage to the control board, then you may have a bad connection somewhere and you’ll need to use your meter and the wiring diagram on the tech sheet (located in a pouch under the top cabinet panel that you removed to access the control board) to troubleshoot and find where you’re missing the voltage. I show you how to do this using real-world examples, including a front loading washer, in my seminal tome, “Using the Tech Sheet Schematic to Root Out Appliance Gremlins.”

If you need more help, come to the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums, become an Apprentice, and start a new topic for interactive repair help from Master Appliantologists. We’re here to help!

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.