Your Maytag Atlantis washer isn’t spinning. Is it the lid switch? Pulley? Riser cam? Thrust bearing? So many possibilities! Alas, how’s a sensitive, New Age grasshopper to know which one it is? The lid switch is easy enough to confirm by doing a simple continuity test on it. But mechanical problems with the transmission and drive pulley assembly can be more elusive and downright baffling to the uninitiated.

Well, you just unbunch those panties, budrow, ‘cuz several Master Appliantologists have dispensed precious pearls of wisdom in the repair forum on how to diagnose this problem. Oh, taste and see the wisdom of the Masters!

This machine uses an electronic beep-beep board for the user interface (in violation of the 5th Law of the Prophecy). So, you can bet your sweet derriere that you will be seeing fault codes in the display. In rare instances, fault codes give useful diagnostic information; usually, however, it’s just more infuriating techno-blather that’s about as helpful as a poke in the eye with a ca-ca stick.

All fault codes for this washer start with an “F,” which ostensibly stands for “fault” but I’ll let you fill in your own favorite F-word. So, for example, you might see F01, which means the CCU is FUBAR.

When you see an F-bomb flash in your Duet Sport’s control console, you’ll want to have this list of fault codes handy so that you can enhance your confusion but still feel like you’re doing something, anything!, to get the damn thing fixed.

Need more help? Come see us in the repair forum.

From: Molly
Subject: When you were offline (via LivePerson)

Hello,

My direct drive Whirlpool washer filled up and started making a humming noise. What should I look at first? (I’m a girl, please give me directions with that in mind 🙂

Thanks!

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Like, OMG, I would SO be looking for something caught in the pump, fer sher, you know? The pump on this washer is directly connected to the motor; so if the pump is jammed, the motor is jammed, too. Fortunately, this is one of the easiest washers to work on. The entire washer cabinet comes off, giving you easy access to all the guts; it’ll look like this…

… and you’ll see the pump right down in front, as shown above. Pry off the two clips on the pump, pull it off the motor, and tie it back.

Now bypass the tan and gray wires on the three-wire lid switch harness using a length of insulated 12 gauge wire as a jumper wire. If the motor runs after the tub fills, then you know you need a new pump. Come git you one!

This topic in the repair forum has everything you never wanted to know about this ghastly repair job. It’s actually not that bad except for getting the spring clamp back on. See this page for more. And you can buy the replacement door boot gasket here.

From: NIcky Hancock
Subject: When you were offline (via LivePerson)

Hi there, we have Kanmore front load washer (2001). We had to take machine apart because a screw had somehow got in between inner & outer tub. How on earth do we get the bellows boot back on (the one with the the spring)?

Thanks so much!
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First off, you have a Kenmore, not a Kanmore. If you search this site or the entire web for “Kanmore,” you won’t find much.

No model number given, but the non-HE3t/4t Kenmore washers are made by Frigidaire (which we professional appliantologists like to spell, “Frikkidaire” — you’ll discover why when you change the bellows). As for how to change the bellows, this scroll of appliantological wisdom shall illumine your steps and make straight your path. Be there now.

These machines have model numbers like FAV6800AWW. It can be tricky to diagnose clutch problems and not confuse them with the dreaded (but, unfortunately, all too common) transmission problems or relatively easy control problems. But this topic in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forum will illumine your footsteps on this slippery path.

Working on one o’ them fancy new Bravos, Cabrios, or Oasis (Oasises? Oasisi?) and you’re getting the confounding F51 error code? The reason could well be due to an intermittent connection at the Rotor Position Sensor, (RPS).

To correct this, remove and reinstall the connector at the RPS at least three times to clean off any corrosion built up on the connector and RPS due to the intermittent connection. Confirm that the connector is fully seated onto the RPS control upon final connection and verify there are no damaged wires. Replace the electronic control. The upgraded control is less sensitive to intermittent RPS connections.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

A complaint that some new owners of front-loading washers have is that, after a while, the washer starts smelling like moldy socks. In almost every case, with the exception of the known mildew probem with the early model Neptunes, the stench is caused by user error. The Appliantology Masters in the repair forum share some pearls of wisdom for keeping your front-loader smelling schweet.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man,

I have a front-loading Kenmore wash machine that is about six years old. The tub would not drain so I replaced the drain pump, the coin trap, and the drain hose. That solved the drain problem but a week later the water was back on the floor. I looked in the parts manual that came with the machine and decided it must be the O-Ring that seals the front and rear shells.

I need a real service manual for this job and the folks at Sears were absolutely worthless in helping me with finding the proper manual. I am searching the web trying to find information on how to approach this job. I am asking for some guidance on validating that this is the most likely cause of the leak and tips for how to approach the repair. Thanks in advance for your time and assistance.

Rick L.

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No model number given but a six year old, Kenmore front-loading washer will be a Friggidaire-built machine. Here’s the service manual for this washer.

You may be further nourished by my uplifting and inspiring sermon on common leak sources in the Frigidaire-built front loading washer.

Lock n’ load, Budrow!

One of our fine Master Appliantologists in the repair forum, Tronicsmasta, posted a spiffy photo guide for replacing the clutch in the Whirlpool-built direct-drive washing machine and it’s just aching for the furtive caress of your bulging eyeballs.

Parts you may need when you embark on this repair adventure:

– Clutch Assembly

– Brake and Basket Drive Tube Kit

– Gearcase

(This machine is also sold under the Kenmore brand.)

This washer also masquerades under the Kenwhore label but it’s the same machine. One of the nice things about this washing machine is that you can test all the main electrical components right at the Central Control Unit (CCU), conveniently located under the top panel, in back. Looky here:

These pages will help you find your way around inside there and clue you in to what type of measurements you need to do. BTW, the service manual for this washer is the best $25 you’ll ever spend; come git you one.

Once you figger out what’s wrong, the Samurai recommends that you buy the parts you need ratcheer. You’ll get ’em fast and you can return any part for any reason.

Common problem with this otherwise tragically flawed washer: it will tumble and pump out the water in the tub, but it will not spin. Usually, the problem is the speed control board. However, in accordance with the Ichiban Law of the Prophecy, you should use your meter and do a few tests to prove that the board is bad.

“But, wise and besotted Samurai, what tests are those of which you utter with slurring speech and stumbling gait?”

The ones that are printed on your washer’s tech sheet, Slick, which you’ll find behind the kickplate.

This topic in the repair forum links you to a service manual for this washer and, oh, so much more. Come ye and bask in the ancient wisdom of Fixite Do with the Sublime Masters of Appliantology at the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

This washer is an oldie but goodie, manufactured by Maytag back in the days when Maytag earned a reputation for quality and dependability (unlike the junk being cranked out today with a Maytag label on it).

A sure sign that you need to do this repair on your trusty old Maytag is if you see water leaking from the center of the tub onto the transmission. To check this, you’ll need to remove the front panel. Other indications may be a tub that’s reluctant to spin (or burns belts) or makes a ghostly howling noise during spin. The diagram shown here to the right will explain what’s happening (click the pic for a larger view).

You may be thinking, “Oh, but it’s so old, I’ll just buy a new washer and get another 20 years out of it.” Oh, feckless grasshopper, you would be in for a rude awakening.

OK, proceeding on the assumption that you are one of the thinking grasshoppers and not one of the brainless masses being manipulated by the purdy pictures of shiny new appliances dangled in front of your nose by the savvy marketing teams of the manufacturers, let’s get into the nuts and bolts, so to speak, of doing this repair.

I. Essential Tools

– Spanner wrench (to remove the inner basket).
– Sockets: 1/4″, 5/16″, 3/8″, and 1/2″
– Straight-slot screwdriver
– Allen wrench or torx set (depending on the set screw used on the replacement part).
– Beer. Lots of beer. About four, 16 oz. mugs, to be exact.

II. Required Parts

– Mounting Stem and Seal Kit
– Tub Bearing Repair Kit

III. The Procedure

1. Unplug washer and Remove two Philips head screws holding front panel in ( newer models have clips on the bottom and no screws )

2. Remove front panel, lift panel from sides, has two “tabs” on top

3. Remove two 3/8ths hex head screws holding top down

4. Lift up top, it’s somewhat hinged, careful lid doesn’t smash against wall or pipes

5. Disconnect water tube on left side to top cover

6. loosen the two screws on the steel band… straight or 5/16th ( newer washers have a plastic tank cover, pry out the tabs and lift up to remove the plastic tank cover )

7. gently but forcefully remove the top cover

8. careful not to bend the band or cut the gasket

9. *remove the agitator by grasping firmly and pulling up towards your chin, carefully!
*( many have 1/4 hex head screw on agitator, down the side near the base, older ones have a rubber ring on transmission shaft )

10.using a hammer and your spanner wrench remove or cut off the spanner nut, it is a left hand thread so it must come off clockwise, careful not to chip the tub

11. remove the inner tub,, it’s heavy with the concrete counter balance

12. take the Allen wrench screw (or torx) out of the mount stem ( see one of the 4 dimples for the set screw )

13. using your hammer and spanner wrench take the mount stem off, mount stem is a left hand thread so it must come off clockwise

14. now grasp the seal and remove, careful you can slip

15. put a 1/2″ socket on the nut on the front and 1/2″ box wrench or adjustable wrench on the inside bolt, and loosen using the socket on the outside, but not remove entirely the front nut

16. then using the same two tools remove the left and right bolts and nuts and lock nuts and plate, noticing the fiber washer

17. then remove the front one

18. remove tub to pump top hose clamp and pull off up 1/2 of that hose, now work the outer tub loose and lift up but not out entirely

19. remove the pressure hose on your rear right side

20. take out the tub

21. stomp (using your foot) out the tub bearing housing from inside the outer tub

22. remove the “metal sleeve collar” on the transmission shaft

22A. you’re half started

23. turn the outer drum over

24. take the new tub bearing and “stomp” it into the outer tank…flush, take your time and double/triple check yourself on these steps, (takes less time to recheck and verify than to tear down and start over)

25. put the new collar over the transmission

26. put the outer tub back on and reattach the pressure hose and pump hose

27. line up the front hole and put the front (short) bolt in, making sure you have the fiber washer on the outside of the tub

28. put the rectangular flat washer on, then the lock washer and the nut by hand…
thread it on a couple of turns but leave loose

29. put the right and left bolts and stuff on, tighten well

30. tighten up the front one

31. Put the seal on next, careful not to tear the seal, but it needs to be all the way down. One side has a special edge of carbon or something like that and that needs to be UP towards you. Sometimes taking a little bit of liquid laundry detergent and lining the inside bottom lip of the seal with it can help with the installation of the seal onto the tank.

32. take the torx screw out of the new mount stem, and screw down the stem mount, tighten with spanner wrench ( don’t over tighten! ), install the torx screw

33. put the inner tub on

34. check the spacing around the top of the inner tub (making sure that the tub is not listing one way or another)

35. put the metal cover on and spanner nut

36. put the top cover on and push it all the way down

37. check and clean the gasket and put it back on

38. put the clamp back on over the gasket

39. tighten to a moderately firm but not tight setting

40. carefully with a long straight screwdriver pry up the top part, bit by bit
run your fingers around the clamp to make sure the gasket didn’t pop up

41. when you think you have a good position, take your index finger and on the inside put it between the top cover and top of the inner basket and make sure you have this space all round so that the inner basket doesn’t rub against the top cover

42. tighten the clamp

43. reinstall the hose from the injector to the top cover

44. plug unit back in and turn to spin

45. let it spin for a couple of minutes

46. turn timer to fill and put water in

47. water test before securing top and reinstalling front panel

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.