Category Archives: Washer Repair

Three Easy Steps to Total Washing Machine Flood Prevention

I can’t count the number of times I’ve heard from clients who’ve told me about a washing machine flood horror story. In one case, my client had an upstairs laundry and the washing machine overfilled. Naturally, she had left the house and came back home to over $20,000 worth of water damage to her home. Here are three easy steps to keep this from happening to you.

Install Floodstop on Your Washer Water Supply Valves

FloodstopThis system is awesome! Installs in just a few minutes by simply unscrewing your washer fill hoses, installing the solenoid valves, and then plugging in the sensor. It works by sensing water beneath the washer that shouldn’t be there from overfilling, burst hoses, whatever, and then it shuts off the water supply. Slick!


Install Steel-Braided Fill Hoses on Your Washer

steel braided washer fill hosesIf you’re still using those cheap black rubber hoses (like most folks), you’ve got a time bomb in your laundry room. Unless you diligently shut off the water to your washer after each and every use, it’s just a matter of time before one of those hoses bursts. These steel-braided fill hoses are the cheapest and best flood insurance you can buy!


Place a Leak-Catcher Beneath Your Washer

washing machine leak catcherIf you have an upstairs laundry, you can protect that nice floor from being damaged by soapy, scummy washer water with this handy, easy-to-install leak catcher.


Ok, three easy steps to total flood prevention from the most flood-prone appliance in your home: your washing machine. And all this for less than $150. Like I’m tellink you, dahling, it’s such a bahgain!

Mailbag: Do Maytag Neptune Washers Still Suck?

Russell T wrote:

Greetings oh wise and great samurai. Got a question about front-loading washers. I want one, but don’t want to deal with all the difficulties they have had. Has Maytag fixed the problems with the Neptune, or have they just washed their hands of the problem? It seems that most of the complaints center around moisture (which leads to the electrical problems and mold). It also seems that if the door is left open, there’s no problem. I’ve always left the lid open on my top-loader to prevent the moldy smell.

At any rate, I’m curious to know if a newly-purchased Neptune has got all the fixes, or if there’s a better front-loading option.

Thanks,
Russell

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Message sent from IP: 68.55.61.81

You’re on the right track thinking about getting a front loader (more properly called a horizontal axis washer). But you’re going down the wrong road in looking at the Maytag Neptunes. Yes, they still suck.

You should be thinking about the Whirlpool Duet or the Staber. Both are great machines, but the Staber has several things going for it that edge out the Duet. Read more about the Staber vs. the Whirlpool Duet.

Washing Machine Shootout: The Staber vs. Whirlpool Duet

Susan Marek wrote:

Welcome to the Mac and firefox –however Mac’s Safari is cool too! Firefox is for windows users to try to avoid most viruses/spyware thru internet– until it gets popular too.

Now for the big question:

I see you feel Staber is best bet going–still after the whirlpool Duvet entry?

Also, do either of these do twin and queen comforters or King Duvet?

_______________________________

Message sent from IP: 24.185.40.124

I think the essential difference between Macs and PCs comes down to this: I use a PC because I have to; I use a Mac because I like to. And I like the Safari browser, too. But I was already using Firefox on my Windows platform and they have a very nice version for the Mac with features not available in Safari (e.g., all the extensions, especially FireFTP, gmail checker, and several others that I rely on heavily).

The Staber washer vs. Whirlpool Duet… hmm, tough call. Both are excellent machines with all the advantages of horizontal axis washers over the old, energy/water hog vertical axis machines.

First, a little terminology. I refer to the Staber as a horizontal axis washer instead of the layman’s term front-loader because it’s more accurate. All front-loaders are horizontal axis washers but not all horizontal axis washers are front-loaders. For example, both the Staber and the Whirlpool Duet are horizontal axis washers; however, the Staber is loaded from the top, whereas the Whirlpool Duet is loaded from the front. Aside from the Staber, all other top-loaders are vertical axis washers, which are distinguished by an agitator in the center of the tub that beats the hell out of your clothes.

Let’s review some other fun facts to know and tell about horizontal axis washers vs. their vertical axis cousins:

Comparison of Vertical Axis vs. Horizontal Axis Washers
Feature Vertical-Axis Washer Horizontal-Axis Washer
Water Use per Load 45 Gallons 15 Gallons
Tub Material Plastic or Porcelain Stainless Steel
Annual Operating Cost $600 $260
Detergent Usage per Load 4-8 ounces 1 ounce
Capacity 8-10 Full-Size Towels 16 Full-Size Towels
Half-Life 12 Years 20-25 Years

Ok, any dufus can see that horizontal axis washers are the only way to go. Recent marketing research has shown that the only people buying vertical axis washers these days live in double-wides, smoke GPC cigarettes, and leave the water running while brushing their tooth. If you fit into that demographic, tell whoever is reading this to you that they can stop now and turn Jerry Springer back on because you’re just looking for the cheapest washer you can find.

Let’s move on to the specific comparison and contrast between the Staber and the Whirlpool Duet:

  • The Staber loads from the top vs. from the front as in the Duet. For people with bad backs (like me) this is a compelling feature.
  • Samurai’s 11th Law of Appliance Repair states that, “Electronics and wet appliances do not mix.” The Staber has NO electronics in the control panel– all user controls on the Staber are mechanical switches and timers. It does use a single motor controller board which is required to control the forward and reverse tumble directions of the motor. The Duet, on the other hand, uses two, mondo-hairy electronics boards, one of which is just for the control panel. I’ve already seen problems with the motor controller board, though these were isolated cases and do not appear to be a design or production flaw.
  • Samurai’s 3rd Law of Appliance Repair states that, “Everything breaks; it’s just a matter of frequency, difficulty, and expense.” The Staber is designed to be repaired by the end-user– no servicer required. Since you sought out my website, I assume you have at least some interest in being able to do most repairs yourself. The Staber washer is totally serviced from the front, so you don’t have to be a gorilla to pull it out and work on it. You buy replacment parts directly from the factory– this means they’re going to cost less than comparable parts for other brands because you won’t be paying a retail markup.
  • The Whirlpool Duet is made in Germany. The Staber is made right here in Ameedica.
  • The Staber is less expensive than the Duet. The Staber all-white base model, HXW2304, sells for $1,199, freight-paid. The Duets are more in the range of $1,500, plus delivery.

Wanna see it in action? Ok, come check out this video of the Staber in action (138 mb). The Staber standard white model HXW2304 is available for just $1,199. This is a delivered price to a business or residential home within the Continental U.S. (free freight). When you purchase your Staber washer through me, you also get these other goodies:

Still have questions? More info at Samurai’s Appliance Emporium.

Mailbag: Kenmore Front-load Washer Stinks

kenmore front-loading wrote:

I have a Kenmore front-loading washer I purchased in 2001. About two months ago
we started noticing brown and black stains on the clothes. Upon further
inspection, the boot around the door was disgusting so I replaced it. Two loads later,
same issue, staining on the clothes that will not come out! I talked to another
technician and to some one at Proctor and Gamble (we use Tide He) and they both
said that there is a mold issue that lives around the outside tub. Problem
occurs because we don’t use enough hot water washes and/or bleach. This is both
true. We mostly use warm water and rarely use bleach. When we do use bleach we use
the color bleach. We tried using a hot wash with vinegar and also a hot wash
with bleach, both without clothes. Seemed to work but three weeks later we’ve got
the stains again! What is going on, Sensei? I have never seen this problem
before, ever. ?????

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Message sent from IP: 68.189.93.14

Fun fact to know and tell: we’ve had this same washer (Gibson brand, same manufacturer, Frigidaire) for seven years and have never had a mold or smell problem of any kind. In fact, this washer has been trouble-free and we’re a family of five, running it every day, sometimes three times in a day. No problems. Zero, zip, nada. We also leave the door wide open between uses so the washer can dry out.

Now, learn some of the Samurai’s personal hygienic practices. I always use bleach on my skivvies (boxer shorts and white undershirts). It’s a habit left over from my Navy days. If you’re not bleaching your skivvies, you’re wearing poopie germs on all your clothes and you are a dirty man. Remind me never to shake your hand if I ever meet you.

Here, now, I present Samurai’s 14th Law of Appliance Repair: Nothing kills like chlorine.

Bleach: it’s what’s for dinner.

Appliance Repair Revelation, Opening the Maytag Neptune Washer

appliance tip of the day archive

If you have the supreme misfortune of owning a Maytag Neptune washer, sooner or later you’re going to need to open the front to gain access to a couple of the more common fail items such as the door latch assembly, the tub boot, or the pump. Fortunately, this beast comes apart pretty easily… if you know the trick. Hey, this is appliance repair, it’s all about tricks. And the Samurai is here to reveal these tricks unto thee, for it is written, “And ye shall know the tricks, and the tricks shall save you a service call fee.”

I have some some cabinet disassembly information ratcheer.

Ok, tear ’em up, Hoss.

grasshoppers visualizing opening the Maytag Neptune washer without tearing it up

“Is There a Washer and Dryer Worth Buying?”

rosehillworks wrote:

I am thinking about buying a new washer and dryer instead of repairing my kenmore frontloader set. Is there a brand worth buying that will last awhile before dying. I am a family of six and really need a dependable washer and dryer set.

Thanks,
Helen

(Posted in the Appliantology Group repair forum)

A good question and one I get asked a lot during service calls. It’s also hard to find unbiased information on this topic. Like Terry said, forget about Consumer Reports— they are either a scam organization or just plain stupid, I haven’t figured out which. Here, I’ll talk about the cheap top loaders that everyone likes to buy; in a subsequent post, I’ll talk about two of the best washers on the market today: the Staber and the Whirlpool Duet.

First off, you have to accept that the days of getting ~15 trouble-free years of service from a new appliance are long gone. On average, expect to do repairs every two to four years, no matter which brand you buy. What varies among the brands is the frequency and expense of the repairs. And, no, it’s not an evil plot by the manufacturers. Think about it: you can buy a new washer, dryer, refrigerator, whatever, for about the same number of dollars that you would have paid 15 years ago. Meanwhile, during that period, inflation has increased (so the dollar buys less), manufacturer’s costs have increased (materials, labor, insurance, worker’s comp., etc.), yet, magically, you can still buy that appliance for the same number of Federal Reserve Notes! How is this possible?

Because it’s not the same quality appliance that you would have purchased 15 years ago. “Aha! So they deliberately build them flimsier so they’ll fail more!” Nah, nothing nearly so exotic. The real story is a mundane matter of the manufacturers having to build appliances that people will buy, that people can afford to buy. If you had the opportunity to buy an appliance of the same quality and workmanship that you could have gotten 15 years ago with today’s dollars, you’d pay at least four to five times as much for that appliance.

Ok then. So the good news is that you can buy a new appliance for the same number of Federal Reserve Notes as it would have cost you 15 years ago. The bad news is that there’s a hidden cost of ownership in that you’ll be doing repairs every two to four years. But then, that’s why God gave us Fixitnow.com and the Appliantology Group!

Now, on to brands. In general, Whirlpool brands seem to provide the best overall value, meaning the best optimization of price and reliability. This is not to say they’re trouble-free, no-siree-Bob, not by a long-shot. You’ll still be doing repairs on ’em about every two to four years. But, in general, the repairs will be comparatively minor. For example, after three years, you may need to replace the drive coupler or the lid switch on a Whirlpool direct-drive top-loading washer– both of these are simple repairs that rate at most two mugs on the SUDS-o-meter. On the other hand, in the same three year period, you could be replacing the transmission or some other major drive component in a Maytag or GE top-loading washer. Even if such a repair is covered by warranty, you have to deal with the whole fuss of getting warranty service which, in some areas, could take weeks.

I’ve also found that, as a company, Whirlpool is very easy to deal with. They tend to go the extra mile to take care of the customer. They make warranty parts procurement easy, even for the consumer. And they make technical information readily available, a particularly enlightened paradigm when other manufacturers seem to go out of their way to make it difficult for independent servicers to obtain technical service information on their products. GE is especially bad in this regard. Speaking of GE…

Avoid GE appliances and all GE brands. They charge a premium for their products yet their repair frequency is as much or more than other brands. And the repair will cost you more because GE parts can cost two to three times more than comparable parts for other brands; it’s not like they’re better parts, either– GE just charges more for ’em. Why? ‘Cuz they can. Appliance techs often joke that GE stands for Greedy Electric. But, sadly, the real joke is on the schlumps who buy GE appliances.

Another sad joke is Maytag. This once-venerable maker of the standard-bearer of appliance reliability has taken a page from the GE playbook: make cheap junk and sell the hell out of ’em. The recent class-action settlement for the Neptune washer is one visible example. The only Maytag-brand appliances that I like anymore are the Maytag-branded dryer and the Maytag- or Magic Chef-branded gas ranges. Avoid the highly over-rated Jenn-Air brand– it’s just overpriced junk.

Frigidaire (often pronounced Frigg-i-daire by technicians working on their equipment) makes about the same quality product it always has: mediocre. If someone held a gun to my head and made me pick from either GE, Maytag, or Friggidaire, I suppose I’d choke down my bile and take the Friggidaire. The worst part about the Friggidaire is working on them. Friggs require a high degree of manual dexterity for some repairs, especially on their washing machines. These machines seem like they were designed to be worked on by extra-terrestrial technicians who have a third arm sprouting out of their chest. And from the customer’s standpoint, Frigidaire is a real pain in the pooper to deal with– unlike Whirlpool, they won’t send out needed warranty parts directly to a consumer to make their own arrangements for the repair.

Then lots of people ask, “Ok, well, what about Kenmore? Is that a good brand?” Well, who makes Kenmore? If you bothered to click that link, you’d have seen that everyone makes Kenmore… except Kenmore. Y’see, the only thing Kenmore makes is money. There ain’t no Kenmore factory in Malaysia or anywhere else. In the old days, all Kenmore appliances were made by Whirlpool exclusively. But not so any longer. So, if you buy a Kenmore, you don’t really know what you’re getting. The other problem with Kenmore is that you’re stuck dealing with Sears to resolve warranty issues since Kenmore takes over the product warranty from the manufacturer. Running a do-it-yourself appliance repair website, I hear all kinda sordid stories about people getting ripped-off or jerked-around. This one about a Kenmore refrigerator in Florida has got to be one of the all-time classics.

Recommended Reading:

Mailbag: Whirlpool/Kenmore Calypso CE Error

kenmore calypso washer wrote:

Can I do anything to correct a CE error on a kenmore calyspso washer before calling for service.
A frustrated layman????

PS the machine is 18 months old and is just out of warranty. can you suggest any help to honor the warranty after being out of warranty. It is probably an electronic component.

Thanks Your my “LAST SAMURAI” help

_______________________________

Message sent from IP: 24.13.243.154

Alas, another unsuspecting Calypso owner. The problem you’re having now is the first of many that you’ll have with this washer. Go ahead and buy the repair manual now–you’ll need it.

The CE error stands for “Communications Error” and refers to a breakdown in communications between the machine controller and the motor controller. In practical terms, this problem is usually caused by a bad wire connection. The most common trouble spot is the quick disconnect at the motor connector–I’ve seen this problem a lot. Usually, if you just take off the connector and re-attach it, that clears it up… IF the appliance gods are grinning down upon you. But, you may not be so lucky and you may have to make a sacrifice in the temple of Appliantology to appease the appliance gods. Y’see, lots of other things can cause the CE error, too.

motor controller board on the calypso washer--come git you one!For ezzample, another common problem is a blown fuse on the motor controller board. Unfortunately, this ain’t a trivial repair like re-seating the quick-disconnect plug at the motor connector. Nawsir, in this case, you gotta replace the entire motor controller board.

Now, you might delude yourself into thinking you’re being all slick and clever by replacing just the fuse and save a wad of moola. Oh, my, but how I giggle and nearly wet myself when disheartened grasshoppers tell me of their folly in replacing the fuse on the motor control board only to end up with a burned out motor, too! Good times, good times.

Mailbag: Whirlpool/Kenmore Direct Drive Washer Suspension Springs

JohnW wrote:

I am working on a Kenmore Washer (Model #110 92292800). I replaced the drive coupling already. When I looked under the unit I found a leveling spring on the floor. I checked the diagrams and info on the springs but they do not show EXACTLY how the leveling spring is attached. How does this spring attach – are there any photos on-line that show this?

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Message sent from IP: 162.119.232.104

I have a good picture in the Appliantology Group showing the location of the most troublesome suspension spring. If that ain’t good enough, post your question in the world-famous appliance repair forum along with an illustrative photo of your washer.

In addition to the internet’s premier appliance repair forum, the Appliantology Group houses the web’s largest repository of appliance repair photos and diagrams.

Mailbag: Whirlpool / Kenmore Calypso Washer Debacle

Kenmore Calypso wrote:

I have just purchased a Calypso, my appliance guy recommended it. Anyway, there is a leak somewhere inside the cabinet in the rear door of the drainhose. The repairman accused me of having “old plumbing” when he came out to check the water draining onto the floor and into the basement and my upright freezer! I had to pull out the dryer and watch the thing run a whole cycle to discover the source. I have also just gotten a C1 error message. Have I just been swindled?

Thanks!

Janet

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Message sent from IP: 4.225.111.89

I’ll bet my left kidney that your “appliance guy” got a kickback from the dealer. Why else would this jackball recommend a washer which sucks so bad that a class action lawsuit has been filed against it? This washer is manufactured by Whirlpool and also sold under the Kenmore brand.

Cranial RectitusAnd then the ‘tard couldn’t even troubleshoot a leak on a washer that he recommended you buy!? Dammit, Janet! You didn’t actually pay this buffoon, did you? Judging by the picture you sent me of your appliance guy (shown here at the right), I think it’s a good bet that he’s suffering from what we Master Appliantologists call Cranial Rectitus. I personally do not know any professional practitioners of the appliance repairing arts who would, in good faith, recommend that someone buy a Calypso washer. Overall, Whirlpool makes decent stuff. But the Calypso washer is one for the “Oops!” file.

Have you been swindled? Well, swindled is such a harsh word; more accurate descriptions of your transaction might be: bamboozled, bilked, conned, defrauded, diddled, duped, extorted, fleeced, flimflammed, fooled, gouged, gulled, gypped, hoodwinked, hornswoggled, hosed, humped, jived, plucked, rimmed, ripped off, rooked, sandbagged, scammed, screwed, shafted, shucked, skunked, soaked, stiffed, stung, trimmed, or victimized. But to say you’ve been swindled is, perhaps, going a bit too far.

The Calypso washer has been a huge debacle for Whirlpool in exactly the same way that the Neptune washer was a black eye for Maytag. My best advice to you: return this washer for a full refund NOW. Failing that, buy the Calypso washer repair manual–you’ll need it because you’ll be spending all your free time repairing it.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Mailbag: Fisher & Paykel Washer that Won’t Start

Fisher & Paykell Smart drive Model GWL08 – No Start

Mains power outage occured and when power came back on washing machine will not
start.

All lights come on as per normal and machine appears to ready to start. Can
select diferent cycles water levels temperatures etc but pressing start gives
usual beep but no action. Have turned of at mains to reset electronics etc, even
left of overnight – still no start. Has the main board failed? or am I missing
something other than a life away from the tools.

_______________________________
The above message was sent when you were offline, via your Timpani site.

Message sent from IP: 203.134.146.126

Try putting the controls into diagnostic mode. The tech sheet inside the control panel explains how to do this but I’ll include an abbreviated procedure here for other grasshoppers who surf into this post.

To enter Diagnostic Mode:

  • Turn power off at the console
  • Press and hold the wash temperature down then press the power button. The machine should give two short beeps.
  • The different levels of information can be extracted by using the spin speed up or the spin speed down buttons.

If the control board won’t enter diagnostic mode, it’s a good bet the control board is fried. Usually, when the control board fails, one of the line voltage components fried and took out the control board, too. Be sure to test the peripheral components before replacing the control board or you could fry a brand new one. More information on Fisher & Paykel washing machines here.

Mailbag: Washing Clothes in the Bathtub

HappyLaundryLady wrote:

Just wanted to say thanks so much for this site. It really helped us out! We
were going to have to buy a new washing machine, but we don’t even have the money
to pay you for your services, so I would’ve been washing the clothes in the
bathtub with the kids. You know how little kids like to pee in their bath water
though? Umm… yeah… so thanks again!!

HappyLaundryLady

_______________________________
The above message was sent when you were offline, via your LivePerson site.
Message sent from IP: 69.220.146.36

Thanks for sharing.

Mailbag: What Washing Machine Would the Samurai Buy?

Hi Samuri,

I have a question for you…

If you had to replace a washing machine, and wanted to spend under 1 Grand
(gotta save some for beer) what would you buy.

Oh yeah, I need a big tub, my wife has big comforters, but thats another story!

_______________________________
The above message was sent when you were offline, via your Timpani site.

Message sent from IP: 12.108.71.112

If you really want a cheap-ass, water-pig, electricty-hog, top-loading washer, then buy a Whirlpool direct-drive washer. Get the cheapest one you can find, preferably with all mechanical controls (but they’re getting harder to find as the all the manufacturers are going to the crappy electronic controls which are guaranteed to fail early and often). Plan on fixing it every two to four years.

If you can save up a few more shekels, your money would be better-spent on a Staber washing machine. These are horizontal axis washers, meaning they work like a front loader and have all the advantages: much less water usage (12 gallons of water per washer vs. 56 gallons in a top-loader), use less electricity, much gentler on clothes so they last longer, and use less detergent (so you’re not wearing detergent on your clothes). As if that wasn’t enough, these washing machines are 100% made in the USA and use all mechanical controls–none of the electronic garbage so in vogue with all the other manufacturers.

Recommended Reading: Washing Machine Shootout: The Staber vs. Whirlpool Duet

Mailbag: Washing Machine Help

Hello!

I wanted to thank you for the outstanding resource your website provides. My
washing machine was leaking, and I knew nothing about washing machines. Now I
know enough to understand how it works, how to take it apart find the problem!
Thank you very much for your efforts to help lowly home handymen.

Tim Massey

_______________________________
The above message was sent when you were offline, via your Timpani site.

Message sent from IP: 68.62.77.183

I live to serve, Grasshopper. Many domos for your email. If anyone else seeks washing machine help, come find wisdom in washer repair revelations, common washer problems, or the washer diagnostic guide.

Appliance Repair Revelation: Fisher & Paykel DC Drive Washing Machine

appliance tip of the day archiveThese washers have been out for a few years and I’m starting to see more of them in the field. They are extremely reliable machines. Although they’re designed for residential use, I’ve seen them used in commercial applications, sustaining daily, continuous use for several years. This is a top loading machine, vertical axis, and uses an agitator like most top-loaders. These pictures are all from a model GWL08, which has been out for several years. The current model is GWL11.

The most common problem I’ve seen with these washers is a failed pump. The pump is a separate electric pump, is very easy to change by laying the washer down on it’s front panel, and is reasonably priced (about $50). Changing the pump is about a 10-minute job, and that includes time to manually bail a tub full of water.

Although it’s a top-loader and looks very similar to any other top-loading washing machine you’ve seen, it has some significant design differences.

This machine uses a DC drive motor and performs spin and agitate by directly controlling the motor–no transmission! This has three big advantages over conventional top-loaders: 1) increased energy efficiency since you don’t have efficiency losses through a transmission, 2) better reliability since there’s no transmission to fail, and 3) no belts to fail since the agitator is connected directly to the motor shaft.

The control panel lifts off by removing two phillips screws on the back of the control panel. The panel then flips over. The picture below shows what it looks like with the control panel removed.


Control Compartment with Touchpad Lifted Off and Power/Pressure Module Removed (note the water inlet valves on the left-hand side)

Not shown above are Power Control and Pressure Sensing Module, which plugs into the water inlet valve nipple, and the tech sheet, which you’ll find folded up to the left of the water inlet valve. The tech sheet gives detailed instructions for entering diagnostic mode and interpreting the binary diagnostic code generated by the LED display on the control panel touch pad.

The Power Control and Pressure Sensing Module has been removed in the picture above. It’s shown below:


Power Control and Pressure Sensing Module

Another difference with this machine is that it has no discreet pressure switch. Tub fill level is sensed by the Power Control and Pressure Sensing Module, above. This module has two fuses inside, on the control board. When one of them blows, it’s usually an indication that one of the high voltage components, pump or diverter valve, have gone bad. Surprisingly, and contrary to our experience with the abysmal Maytag Neptune Machine Control Board, this control board is amazingly robust. The board on this particular washer happened to be bad but that’s the first one I’ve seen.

The air tube from the tub pressure dome connects to a nipple on the upper right-hand side of the module. The module has a female port that connects with the water inlet valve nipple making a water-tight connection. Water is run into a heat sink tube inside the control board module to keep it cool. It’s the only water-cooled control board I’ve ever seen in the appliance world!

This last picture shows the Touchpad Module that accepts and interprets keypad input.


Touch Pad Module–Located on the Backside of the Touchpad

I haven’t seen any failures of this module. I have however, seen the touchpad itself fail but, in almost every case, it’s from the user pushing too hard on the keypad buttons. But, it’s a very inexpensive and easy part to replace.

Nice machine, as you’d expect from Fisher & Paykel–reliable, first-rate engineering, and easy to troubleshoot and repair.

grasshoppers reviewing the Fisher Paykel washing machine with the master

Appliance Repair Revelation: Is Your Washer Belt-Drive or Direct-Drive?

appliance tip of the day archiveIf you have a Whirlpool or Kenmore washer and post a question about it in The Appliantology Group or call me on the Toll-free Appliance Repair Hotline about a problem with it, the first thing I’m going want to know is whether it’s a belt-drive or direct-drive machine. You don’t have to tear it apart to find out, nor do you need a degree in mechanical engineering. You just need to feast your keen Vulcan squinties on these pictures below and compare with your washer. Hare Krishna!


Belt-Drive Washer

Direct-Drive Washer

To learn more about your washer or to order parts,
click here
.

grasshoppers sitting with the master, wearing freshly washed robes free of unsightly link.